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Old 03-01-2008, 04:24 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by canine camp
I tested the valve, it's clicking when I hook it directly to the battery. So, it's not the sail switch or valve, it has to be some other of the components along the way. I know very little about circuits, so not sure how to find out where the weak link is. I'm heading out to buy a book on basic dc circuits. I own an analog multi-tester, but its own manual completely confuses me. it seems to assume that the reader has a basic knowledge of electricity, which I apparently do not. I'm happy it's not the valve, but very frustrated not knowing were to look and more importantly HOW to look! Anyway, any other ideas will be considered. Otherwise, I'll learn what I'm doing and will find something eventually.
CC,

If your sail switch is good (tested for continuity while the fan is on) AND the gas valve tests OK, that leaves 2 components......the ECO and the igniter board. Follow the wire from the sail switch and you will find one of them going into a button-like device screwed into the sidewall of the plenum. This is the ECO (enegry cut-off device) which acts like a thermostat to cut the gas flow and disable the unit if the temps in the plenum are too high.

Simple test: remove the wires (not polarity sensitive) and test for continuity. If it is good (normally closed), that leaves your igniter board. Most quality RV shops have a board tester to see if the board is good, or simply get a Dinosaur UIB-S (universal igniter board-small) and install it. It's good to keep one around as a spare, as you can use it in your DSI water heater too!!!!

It's down to one or the other now!
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Old 03-02-2008, 06:25 PM   #30
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I hope that the ECO that you're referring to is also known as the Limit Switch? Because, that is the next step that the troubleshooting p/w I'm using suggested. I didn't get a reading for volts on either side of this limit switch. If the ECO is NOT the same as this limit switch, I'm even more confused!! And, what is a "plenum"?? AND, when you say test the ECO by removing the wires, am I then testing the switch leads themselves or the wires?? you can't leave anything to chance with me, I really know next to nothing about testing these things, I'm just bumbling along with the book on basic electronics I bought to help me!! sorry, must frustrate you all trying to help me, but I'm making some headway. Fill me on in the above if you can and have time to, and I'll make the checks. thanks so much.
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Old 03-02-2008, 07:00 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by canine camp
I hope that the ECO that you're referring to is also known as the Limit Switch? Because, that is the next step that the troubleshooting p/w I'm using suggested. I didn't get a reading for volts on either side of this limit switch. If the ECO is NOT the same as this limit switch, I'm even more confused!! And, what is a "plenum"?? AND, when you say test the ECO by removing the wires, am I then testing the switch leads themselves or the wires?? you can't leave anything to chance with me, I really know next to nothing about testing these things, I'm just bumbling along with the book on basic electronics I bought to help me!! sorry, must frustrate you all trying to help me, but I'm making some headway. Fill me on in the above if you can and have time to, and I'll make the checks. thanks so much.
CC,

Limit switch and ECO are the same. It's not voltage you are looking at to test the component...it's continuity or resistance. This must be done with the component isolated (wires removed). A limit switch (ECO) is a normally closed device that conducts electricity unless the furnace temp passes the pre-set limit of the ECO, at which point it 'opens' and no longer will conduct electricity. This is another safety feature for an LP furnace. You will be looking for a resistance value (the specific value is not important) across the terminals of the ECO that will show you that the ECO is still closed and capable of conducting. If you get no resistance value, it is open....bad.... and should be replaced.

The 'plenum' is the term used to describe the metal casing that surrounds the blower and fire box of the furnace. It is the place where the air coming from the blower is heated by the LP burner and then distributed to the coach either by direct output or by ducting. YOU will find the ECO attached to this metal asing at a point where it can accurately read the temperature of the casing to be certain that it does not overheat.

Hope this clears things up fo you a little better.
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Old 03-02-2008, 07:29 PM   #32
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It absolutely does clear it up and, believe it or not, makes perfect sense to me! I'm excited to check this out and have my fingers crossed that this is the problem...limit switches aren't that expensive, and I really would rather fix this furnace. I will post yet again once I test the eco/limit switch, whatever I find out. thanks, I appreciate you sharing this info with me.
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Old 03-03-2008, 06:06 PM   #33
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I've checked the limit switch, with the wires off, and I get zero ohms, so full continuity. But, I'm confused because this indicates to me (having read my basic electronics book about continuity) that this limit switch is GOOD?! contrary to the post right before mine, unless I am just interpreting what was written wrong? I understand that this switch will be closed in a normal state, and that it will open if a certain level of heat is attained. So, am i wrong in concluding that this limit switch is good because I get a zero ohms reading at the terminals? If I am right and the switch is good, then I guess I need to look into getting an ignitor board, but what does it look like and where is it? My literature doesn't mention it? Is it another word for another part? Help please.
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Old 03-03-2008, 06:17 PM   #34
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CC,

It could be your meter.....when I get an open circuit on my Fluke 87V, it reads 'OL' for 'out of limits', or infinity. Any closed circuit will show some resistance. The probes alone show 0.7 ohms wen connected together.

Anyway just to be sure, eliminate the ECO from the circuit and jump the wires connecting to it without the ECO. Try the furnace again. If you still get the same reaction.......MUST BE THE BOARD!
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Old 03-03-2008, 09:48 PM   #35
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once again, makes perfect sense! this meter i have is older, and is analog, so not sure if it's at all trustworthy. great idea to just bypass the limit switch to see if that's where the circuit breaks down. again, though, where is the board, both in case i need to look to replace it and just simply so that I know? I really appreciate the help, thanks so much.
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Old 03-04-2008, 07:06 AM   #36
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Give me your model # and I'll look it up for you.

There is a possibility that you DON'T HAVE A BOARD, as the early furnaces had a time delay relay instead of an igniter board. Your model and serial #'s will determine this.
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Old 03-04-2008, 07:11 PM   #37
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I appreciate that...I'm pretty sure mine doesn't have an igniter board, because there is no mention of one in any of the literature I'm using. And, I "removed" the limit switch from the circuit, still blowing cold air so that's not the problem. My furnace is a Suburban NT-22 model.
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Old 03-04-2008, 07:28 PM   #38
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Originally Posted by canine camp
I appreciate that...I'm pretty sure mine doesn't have an igniter board, because there is no mention of one in any of the literature I'm using. And, I "removed" the limit switch from the circuit, still blowing cold air so that's not the problem. My furnace is a Suburban NT-22 model.
The only other component is the time delay relay. I'll check the schematic and get back soon.................
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Old 03-04-2008, 07:36 PM   #39
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Yep....you got one (TDR) but there is something else you should check first.

Dis-assemble the unit to access the igniter and gas orifice. I'll bet that when you remove the orifice (nozzle), you will find it clogged......possibly with insects!

DO NOT PUT ANYTHING THRU IT!!!!!!!!!!!!

Clean only with compressed air and possibly carb cleaner and more air.
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Old 03-05-2008, 09:13 AM   #40
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I'll do that. I wanted to take it apart to clean it anyway, as the repair manual suggests, but not knowing how involved it is I just haven't given it a lot of thought. I'll try to get to it this weekend, take the whole thing out and see what I find. I don't own a compressor, but I may need to buy one finally! thanks again for giving such good advice, I'll post once I've checked the orifice and cleaned this thing out.
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Old 03-08-2008, 02:20 PM   #41
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Ok, I bought a compressor and blew this thing out. I wasn't able to take the actual burner assembly out, so didn't see the orifice itself. I just can't figure out how to remove the burner, though I tried. I did notice, though that in between the burner chamber and where it hooks into the exhaust/fan chamber, there is a rubber hose that has a crack in it, which then has a gap of about a 1/2 inch at the widest. Is THIS the problem with this not igniting, not having a sealed chamber? And, if it is, how can I seal this up without actually replacing this rubber deal, whatever it's called? Is it possible with liquid gasket, or something that can handle high heat, OR, does this need to be replaced entirely? If this is the problem AND it needs replacing, then I probably will need to take it in to have an RV center do it. I just can't figure out how this thing comes completely apart, and some screws are so rusted I'm afraid they'll break. I'm assuming that having blown it out with compressed air, this would have solved a clogged orifice, if that even was a problem. Any help from any of you will be very much appreciated. thanks!
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Old 03-08-2008, 02:23 PM   #42
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I just re-read the post advising me to REMOVE the orifice, THEN blow it out. So, since I cannot figure out how to get to the orifice, I'm going on the assumption that this cracked rubber ring deal is the problem. So, any help along that angle is what I"m looking for. If that's not what can prevent ignition, then I'm giving up and taking this in to have it looked at. thanks!
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