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Old 01-30-2008, 07:22 PM   #15
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When on shore power the converter kicks battery voltage up so I would suggest you have a corroded connection allowing a voltage drop that is overcome when on shore power.
IMO you need to check the voltage connections at the furnance and fuse many times just disconnecting and reconnecting is good enough but make sure they are tight and clean.

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Old 01-30-2008, 08:12 PM   #16
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jdalrymple, as Garry indicated, this doesn't sound at all like a sail switch problem. (Indeed, it sounds like the sail switch is doing exactly what it's designed to do, namely, shut off the propane flow under poor fan-blowing conditions.) Check to make sure that you're getting sufficient power to the heater. Corrosion could be an issue, as Garry pointed out.

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Old 02-13-2008, 12:24 PM   #17
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ok, I replaced my sail switch and that must not have been the problem, still blowing cold air. So, my repair manual indicates that I should test the valve (which I probably should have done prior to replacing the sail switch, which probably was fine).. I priced a valve and they're $100 and then some!! Is there any way to test and if faulty, repair a valve? could it just be gunked up to where it just can't move, where cleaning it would solve the problem, or if bad do these simply need to be replaced? If I have a bad valve and I need to replace it, I'm almost thinking of a new furnace entirely, though I don't want to spend that kind of money either! If I do, how do I find out what furnace would be best for replacement? Any help is appreciated, I'm getting frustrated!!
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Old 02-13-2008, 12:49 PM   #18
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Oh, boy, it was't the sail switch. I could have sworn on that one (and did).

I guess it would be time to test the valve itself. Unfortunately, I don't have a clue about how to do it, having never had the opportunity (yet) on ours.

Ok, just a little back to basics. If the fan is blowing, but no propane is flowing, are you very sure that the good sail switch is indeed blowing over? Low voltage to the unit can have the same effect, though different cause.

Sorry to hear that this is still a problem!!


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Old 02-13-2008, 01:29 PM   #19
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About furnace blowinf cold air. Free manuals. Go to google, type in "suburban furnace manuals". The 5th reply is from "Dudes". Enter there and you will find 2 downloads that should answer your questions. Jim K
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Old 02-13-2008, 03:25 PM   #20
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I will check that out to see what the free manual has to say. The sail switch was definitely blowing enough to click, both the old and this new one (I had the unit out and turned the fan on, and it easily moved the sail switch) I'm going to try switching the two wires on this new sail switch, it isn't an exact replacement, but Mark's RV indicated it is a substitute, but it didn't have the exact same electrode pattern, so I made a best guess.. It could be that they are on backwards, if so I hope I didn't mess something else up. If that fails, I'll check the valve to see if that's it and then I'll report what I find out. Thanks again, very helpful ideas and suggestions!
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Old 02-13-2008, 04:27 PM   #21
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Thanks for the info I on my low voltage problem. Cleaned and pinched the connectors and now it works like a charm. I have had the problem canine camp is talking about before and found it to the the control board. It detected the sail switch, and fired the piezo but never opend the gas valve. A local RV shop had a test jig, and confirmed the bad board. $100.00 board fixed the problem. I don't think the board I purchased was a "dinosaur" brand, but I have seen on the forums here that it would be a good choice.
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Old 02-13-2008, 05:26 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdalrymple
Thanks for the info I on my low voltage problem. Cleaned and pinched the connectors and now it works like a charm. I have had the problem canine camp is talking about before and found it to the the control board. It detected the sail switch, and fired the piezo but never opend the gas valve. A local RV shop had a test jig, and confirmed the bad board. $100.00 board fixed the problem. I don't think the board I purchased was a "dinosaur" brand, but I have seen on the forums here that it would be a good choice.
Hot durn. At least we got that far. Now if we can figure out what the story is on jdalrymple's heater!

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Old 02-13-2008, 06:37 PM   #23
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Boy, did I make a mess of things. My heater now works great. Just tought I would try to help the fellow who's thread I hijacked.

I will be good from now on, I promise.
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Old 02-13-2008, 08:11 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by canine camp
I will check that out to see what the free manual has to say. The sail switch was definitely blowing enough to click, both the old and this new one (I had the unit out and turned the fan on, and it easily moved the sail switch) I'm going to try switching the two wires on this new sail switch, it isn't an exact replacement, but Mark's RV indicated it is a substitute, but it didn't have the exact same electrode pattern, so I made a best guess.. It could be that they are on backwards, if so I hope I didn't mess something else up. If that fails, I'll check the valve to see if that's it and then I'll report what I find out. Thanks again, very helpful ideas and suggestions!
Don't make this out to be a complex problem.....IT ISN'T! A sail switch is simply a conduit for electricity. It closes to complete a circuit when the fan is blowing at the proper volume and speed.

The igniter board sends current thru the sail switch which is normally OPEN (it closes when the fan is running properly) to a normally CLOSED ECO (energy cut-off device.....a safety to prevent overheating) and THEN to the gas valve. As you can see, the gas valve will not open (allow a flame from the LP) if either of these devices are not closed to form a path for the DC current which activates the gas valve. Note* this operation is for a DSI furnace with an igniter board....it differs a bit if there is no igniter board and yes, Dinosaur boards are the ONLY ones I will use......3 year warranty and I have yet to replace one that failed!!!

To test your gas valve, simple put one terminal to ground and the other to +12VDC and it should 'CLICK' open. No click.....no work!!!! Simple

The terminals of the sail switch and ECO are not polarized....meaning you can put either wire to the terminals. And BTW, a defective gas valve is NOT REPAIRABLE and should BE REPLACED!!!!!

Hope this helps.................

ANY QUESTIONS???????????????
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Old 02-13-2008, 09:50 PM   #25
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Oh, man, now I'm confused. (Hardly a new state of affairs for me.) Does anybody still have a non-functioning heater?

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Old 02-14-2008, 10:37 AM   #26
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GREAT info. I'll test my valve, now that I know my new sail switch cannot be be the problem. As for an igniter board, I have no idea if mine has one of these or not, but of course I'll check if the valve turns out to be working ok. We just got completely hammered with snow yesterday again, so I won't be looking at it until this weekend, I'll post what I end up learning next week. Thanks all of you, very interesting stuff, nice to have you people helping me out, much appreciated!
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Old 03-01-2008, 12:33 PM   #27
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I tested the valve, it's clicking when I hook it directly to the battery. So, it's not the sail switch or valve, it has to be some other of the components along the way. I know very little about circuits, so not sure how to find out where the weak link is. I'm heading out to buy a book on basic dc circuits. I own an analog multi-tester, but its own manual completely confuses me. it seems to assume that the reader has a basic knowledge of electricity, which I apparently do not. I'm happy it's not the valve, but very frustrated not knowing were to look and more importantly HOW to look! Anyway, any other ideas will be considered. Otherwise, I'll learn what I'm doing and will find something eventually.
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Old 03-01-2008, 12:55 PM   #28
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Reverse engineering

Hi Canine!

You know, if you keep this up the weather will eventually get warm. Looking on the bright side, if the heater IS still blowing COLD air you could use it as an air conditioner!

Now, if the air conditioner starts blowing warm air come summer, you could use IT as your heater in the winter.


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