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RichHog · 01-23-2010, 11:01 PM

So I finally got it out of there. Had to drill out the rusted screws on the vent panel and pry it loose but got it out and blew it out with air and wiped it down and gave it some TLC. Tested the yellow/red wires for voltage and was good so I put her back in. Finally got the pilot to light and when the blue wires are crossed a solenoid in the back clicks but the fan blower doesn't come on, which the service manual says should come on immediately. So I'm guessing a bad fan motor. I did notice that the fan blades were very hard to turn by hand and it seemed to bind up, but it could have just been the drag placed on it by the motor. Any body have further thoughts or how to test voltage on the motor" PPL have another one in stock?

Inland RV Center, In · 01-24-2010, 01:31 AM

Many dealers "blow out" the furnace, which doesn't do a thing, except cost you money for doing "NOTHING".

For many safety reasons, if you do not disassemble the furnace, then your better off throwing it away.

After 38 years, all kinds of things go wrong internally in that furnace.

How many wasps nest were removed??

How much flaked rust was removed??

The burner log in itself, will be full of crude, etc, etc.

All the gaskets are bad, as well.

Bench testing is the only way to assure safe operation, of any RV furnace.

Andy

RichHog · 01-25-2010, 08:25 AM

I blew it out, dusted it off, wipes it down, jiggled electrical connections. No wasp nests, some dirt and not too much rust. And in the process I determined that the power to it was still good, no blown fuses and that the thermostat was working to kick it on. That puts me back to the fan motor/blower problem. If I can't fix it for cheap then will go the upgrade to NT30 route. At least like a lot of "Vintage" systems on the old streams half the fun is understanding the minds of the designers and electronics in the old units.

ventport · 01-25-2010, 09:27 AM

Try oiling the fan motor, it should spin freely. If you can take it out and lube the bushings it may work just fine. If not replace the motor.

Mike Leary · 01-25-2010, 09:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RichHog

If I can't fix it for cheap then will go the upgrade to NT30 route.

Suburban is infamous for crummy motors and cards. How do I know? $$$$$$$ is the answer.

RichHog · 01-26-2010, 07:31 AM

Looks like the price for a fan motor is $109, assuming they have the right motor (PPL) for a NT22. That's almost a third of the cost of a new furnace. On their parts list they recommend buying a new furnace instead of repairing. Go figure.

ventport · 01-26-2010, 08:19 AM

Try taking the blower motor out and oiling it. I have done this on many 12 volt blower motors on cars that I have owned which are basically the same thing. They have all lasted as long as I have owned the cars and they are on all the time the car is running. Which is way more use then a furnace gets. Use a good automotive 10W oil not wd 40.

RichHog · 01-26-2010, 11:29 PM

Yes but do you still have a 72 car sitting in your driveway? Might give the oilcan a try. Since the fuse going to the heater isn't blown
it seems to reason that if the fan motor did heat up and burn out then it would have spiked the power an taken out the fuse. any body ever experienced this or does the logic make sense in a 1972 kind of way?

Catman6 · 01-30-2010, 04:12 AM

I have a 1986 Argosy. I don't know which heater it has in it. Sometimes the blower squals like a cat that was stepped on, other times it's quiet as can be. Will oiling it help, or is it a sealed bearing/bushing motor? Also, do the heaters slide out in these as well? My heater is under the couch midship (33FK trailer). FYI, my intermittent firing problem (blower would come on, but the furnace wouldn't fire) turned out dirty contacts on the thermostat.