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Old 01-13-2010, 08:47 AM   #15
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nT22A Replacement

When did you do the work on your furnace? Figure I ought to give mine a shot on repair before I order a NT30
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Old 01-13-2010, 09:01 AM   #16
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I put the NT30 in a few years ago.

I also tried to fix the NT22. Parts and finding someone who knows what they are doing and is willing to work on it was a real problem. Trying to fix the old furnace was a waste of time and money.
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Old 01-13-2010, 09:05 AM   #17
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Quote:
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my crossover tube is certainly cracked. what material did you replace it with? did you deem it more feesible/practical to rebuild it vs buying a new unit?
Auto radiator or gas tank hose has been used.

Your other question, throw it out there are better things to waste time on.
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Old 01-15-2010, 09:36 AM   #18
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I worked on mine during the chistmas vacation. Got it ready for rally at Picacho Peak.
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Old 01-17-2010, 06:30 PM   #19
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Testing NT22A outside of trailer

What do you connect (2 blue wires for thermostat) red + what else to battery or 12V power supply? Propane tank to gas line? etc to test the system in the shop or garage? How do you know if sail switch is shot? main power board? or other typical things that fail?

Thanks
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Old 01-17-2010, 06:50 PM   #20
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What do you connect (2 blue wires for thermostat) red + what else to battery or 12V power supply? Propane tank to gas line? etc to test the system in the shop or garage? How do you know if sail switch is shot? main power board? or other typical things that fail?

Thanks
You got the connections right. I THINK if the blower comes on but the furnace does not light it may be the sail switch. Could also be the microswitch. There is no circuit board in a NT22a. I'm not an expert, maybe someone else will chime in who is.
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Old 01-24-2010, 12:01 AM   #21
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NT 22 A Heater is toast

So I finally got it out of there. Had to drill out the rusted screws on the vent panel and pry it loose but got it out and blew it out with air and wiped it down and gave it some TLC. Tested the yellow/red wires for voltage and was good so I put her back in. Finally got the pilot to light and when the blue wires are crossed a solenoid in the back clicks but the fan blower doesn't come on, which the service manual says should come on immediately. So I'm guessing a bad fan motor. I did notice that the fan blades were very hard to turn by hand and it seemed to bind up, but it could have just been the drag placed on it by the motor. Any body have further thoughts or how to test voltage on the motor" PPL have another one in stock?
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Old 01-24-2010, 02:31 AM   #22
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Many dealers "blow out" the furnace, which doesn't do a thing, except cost you money for doing "NOTHING".

For many safety reasons, if you do not disassemble the furnace, then your better off throwing it away.

After 38 years, all kinds of things go wrong internally in that furnace.

How many wasps nest were removed??

How much flaked rust was removed??

The burner log in itself, will be full of crude, etc, etc.

All the gaskets are bad, as well.

Bench testing is the only way to assure safe operation, of any RV furnace.

Andy
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Old 01-25-2010, 09:25 AM   #23
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NT 22 A Heater is toast

I blew it out, dusted it off, wipes it down, jiggled electrical connections. No wasp nests, some dirt and not too much rust. And in the process I determined that the power to it was still good, no blown fuses and that the thermostat was working to kick it on. That puts me back to the fan motor/blower problem. If I can't fix it for cheap then will go the upgrade to NT30 route. At least like a lot of "Vintage" systems on the old streams half the fun is understanding the minds of the designers and electronics in the old units.
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Old 01-25-2010, 10:27 AM   #24
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Try oiling the fan motor, it should spin freely. If you can take it out and lube the bushings it may work just fine. If not replace the motor.
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Old 01-25-2010, 10:55 AM   #25
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If I can't fix it for cheap then will go the upgrade to NT30 route.
Suburban is infamous for crummy motors and cards. How do I know? $$$$$$$ is the answer.
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Old 01-26-2010, 08:31 AM   #26
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Fan motor

Looks like the price for a fan motor is $109, assuming they have the right motor (PPL) for a NT22. That's almost a third of the cost of a new furnace. On their parts list they recommend buying a new furnace instead of repairing. Go figure.
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Old 01-26-2010, 09:19 AM   #27
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Try taking the blower motor out and oiling it. I have done this on many 12 volt blower motors on cars that I have owned which are basically the same thing. They have all lasted as long as I have owned the cars and they are on all the time the car is running. Which is way more use then a furnace gets. Use a good automotive 10W oil not wd 40.
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Old 01-27-2010, 12:29 AM   #28
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Blower Fan Motor

Yes but do you still have a 72 car sitting in your driveway? Might give the oilcan a try. Since the fuse going to the heater isn't blown
it seems to reason that if the fan motor did heat up and burn out then it would have spiked the power an taken out the fuse. any body ever experienced this or does the logic make sense in a 1972 kind of way?
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