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11-09-2014, 07:45 PM
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#1
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1 Rivet Member
1987 29' Sovereign
2016 30' Flying Cloud
Atascadero
, California
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 11
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Furnace - 2" Floor Duct Connection
I am trying to remove my Suburban NT 30 SP furnace so that I can replace the sail switch but am a little puzzled about how to handle the 2" duct going through the floor. There is a nozzle riveted to the bottom of the furnace box which extends a short distance below the floor and a flex duct is attach at that point. Should I simply drill out the rivet and let the nozzle/duct drop down below the floor? My concern, if I do that, is how to pull the nozzle back into place and reattach it when I reinstall the furnace?
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11-09-2014, 08:29 PM
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#2
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Rivet Master
1981 31' Excella II
New Market
, Alabama
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 6,145
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Mine just had a nipple with a couple of tabs on it that you pull through the hole then bend the tabs to hold it to the bottom of the furnace. I left the nipple connected to the hose.
Perry
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11-09-2014, 10:38 PM
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#3
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1 Rivet Member
1987 29' Sovereign
2016 30' Flying Cloud
Atascadero
, California
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 11
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Thanks Perry. Sounds similar; mine also has the two tabs on top; but mine also has two tabs on the bottom that are riveted. I think I'll drill out the rivets and not worry about reattaching them and just use the two tabs on top to hold it in place.
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11-10-2014, 10:51 AM
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#4
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Rivet Master
1981 31' Excella II
New Market
, Alabama
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 6,145
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I would just use the two tabs. A wood chisel will cut the heads off those rivets.
Perry
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11-10-2014, 11:09 AM
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#5
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Rivet Master
1977 Argosy 24
Currently Looking...
Milltown
, Wisconsin
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 1,087
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Why not remove the gas line, electrical plug and screws that hold the inside to the case and just pull the guts out of the case? The case stays with the AS. And don't forget the screw in the center of the exhaust on the outside of the trailer.
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11-10-2014, 07:55 PM
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#6
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1 Rivet Member
1987 29' Sovereign
2016 30' Flying Cloud
Atascadero
, California
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 11
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Ventport, when I started into this project I hoped I could do as you suggest but I do not see a way to disconnect the gas line without first removing the complete furnace; outer box and all--unfortunate because your approach would save a lot of work. It looks like, when first installed, the gas line was attached before the furnace was slid into the space under the range. When in place, I can't wrench the gas line compression fitting and the gas line serpentines up and down, presumably to provide enough length and flex to slide the unit in and out; see pics. I think its time to detach the 2" duct. Thanks all for the input.
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11-11-2014, 06:27 PM
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#7
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Rivet Master
1981 31' Excella II
New Market
, Alabama
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 6,145
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Normally there is no valve there just an elbow so you can unscrew it. I have taken mine out of the case and removed the complete unit. There is not a lot of difference in the amount of work. If you have never done it before pulling the guts out of the case might take more work and you might break something or rip wires etc.
You do need to make sure you remove the screw in the exhaust vent with either method.
Perry
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11-11-2014, 10:49 PM
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#8
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1 Rivet Member
1987 29' Sovereign
2016 30' Flying Cloud
Atascadero
, California
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 11
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I took the chisel to the duct rivets and pulled the whole unit last night and then pulled the guts out of the box. Waiting for sail switch to arrive in the mail. Hopefully that does the trick. I'm just guessing it is the problem. The blower runs well but there is no ignition or attempt at ignition. Not sure if it getting gas, I don't think it is, but clearly there is no sparking. First I replaced the electrode/sparker but that didn't solve the problem. I'm hoping the sail switch will resolve the apparent lack of gas flow and the lack of spark.
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11-12-2014, 06:02 AM
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#9
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Rivet Master
1981 31' Excella II
New Market
, Alabama
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 6,145
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You can fool the thing by shorting the sail switch wires and seeing if it ignites. Make sure the fan is on before doing this.
Perry
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11-12-2014, 10:31 PM
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#10
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1 Rivet Member
1987 29' Sovereign
2016 30' Flying Cloud
Atascadero
, California
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 11
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That's a good thought; may try it tomorrow. Reassembling and getting the unit back into place is a pain but at least that approach would tell me if I should unpackage the switch when it arrives, or not.
Steve
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11-13-2014, 01:11 PM
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#11
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Wise Elder
2010 30' Classic
Vintage Kin Owner
South of the river
, Minnesota
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 4,169
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I know you've got it out now, but it would it not have been possible to loosen the flare nut with a crowfoot fitting wrench? I have a set of them, don't use them that often, but once in a while they save a great deal of disassembly.
http://i21.geccdn.net/site/images/n-.../K-T_27319.jpg
__________________
To learn to see below the surface, you must adjust your altitude
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11-13-2014, 08:02 PM
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#12
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1 Rivet Member
1987 29' Sovereign
2016 30' Flying Cloud
Atascadero
, California
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 11
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I am not familiar with the use of a flare nut wrench but I don't think it was going to help much in the tight space; probably couldn't rotate the wrench more than 30 degrees--if that much. It would have been nice not to have to take the furnace box out but maybe I'm learning more this way--the hard way as usual.
Steve
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