Front Bedroom AC Balancing

[SilverCabin]

Moving from a rear bedroom floor plan to the front bedroom plan had many advantages for us. One of the things we liked was the large bathroom you get when you close the two sliding partitions, that closes the shower and bathroom off from the rest of the trailer. However, that creates a problem with the air conditioning.

The AC unit is aft of the partitions in the living/dining/kitchen area, and the thermostat is forward in the bedroom. When the AC is needed, the thermostat switches it on and the aft part of the trailer gets all the cold air, while the bedroom just stays warm. Thus the occupants in the living area feel like they are in a walk-in refrigerator.

One solution would have been to order the 50 amp, two AC option, but that's overkill. I've been reading that the thermostat has the ability to have a second zone. Has anyone explored that, and would that solve the problem?

Randy


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[lewster]

The Comfort Control Center II ( CCC II) can handle 4 zones, but each zone is linked to a roof unit. It does not gave the capability to operate multiple zones for a single heat pump unit.


Lew Farber
RVIA/RVDA Nationally Certified Master Tech
Master Tech Energy Systems, Inc.
AM Solar Certified Installation Center
Lifeline Batteries**Magnum Inverters
541-490-6357

[Beach Bum]

With the partitions closed air circulation is the issue. If you are able to add an additional thermostat not sure how much help it would be. A cheap fix might be a small fan to give better air circulation but that may not be much help either if the partitions are closed.

We have 2 AC's in our 30' and we still adjust the thermostat to keep the front and back comfortable depending on time of day and if we are cooking.... We try to only use the front AC when we sleep to keep the noise down. So when I get up in the AM I have my coffee in the walk in refrigerator while the Mrs. is nice and comfortable in the bedroom

If we only have 30Amp service we can only run one AC and have the same issue as there is only one sensor for each AC unit.

[Protagonist]

If closing the doors blocks circulation, there is a way to have your cake and eat it, too. Drill a series of 1" vent holes near the top and bottom of each door. 1" diameter holes with 1" of solid wood between the edges of the holes and the edge of the door or the adjacent holes will open up a lot of air circulation without creating a line of sight. Three rows of holes at the top of the door, three rows at the bottom of the door, with the second row in each set offset by an inch side-to-side relative to the top and bottom rows, should be plenty.

With vent holes both top and bottom, you're covered for both heating and cooling, air in one set and out the other.

[SilverCabin]

The partitions are an accordion fold partition, so drilling holes isn't a good solution. In our old 2007, the accordion fold partitions were hung from a rod that was a couple of inches below the ceiling. This allowed the air to pass over the top. In our 2014, they are hung from the ceiling itself, thus blocking the airflow over the top, and it takes a very long time for the cool air to come under the partition and get to the thermostat. By the time that would occur, there would be ice sickles in the aft part of the Airstream.

Disappointed to hear from Lew that the control can't do two zones with only one AC unit.

Randy


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[richinny]

can you use the ceiling fan to push or pull the cold air to the warmer area?

[lsbrodsky]

Our solution is not ideal, but it works. I put a small efficient fan on the galley floor pointed forward. It blows the colder air under the partitions and cools off the front bedroom to equalize the temp. We only really need it between 9PM and 6 AM.
Larry

[SilverCabin]

That's a good suggestion Larry. I'll give it a try when we head out again later this month.


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