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Old 09-28-2010, 11:15 PM   #15
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While CO is always a concern and a CO detector is a must have item, IMO. The biggest concern with a CAT heater is the depletion of Oxygen in a closed room. Many of the newer CAT heater have a safety that will shut them off if the Oxygen levels fall too low.

We will warm up the trailer with the CAT, then shut it down when we go to bed. A Down comforter and a little snuggling will keep you warm on the coldest nights.



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Old 09-29-2010, 05:45 AM   #16
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At this point, I'm just wishing we could have some cold nights!


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Old 09-29-2010, 06:22 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by Chuck View Post
If you're going to be "boondocking quite a bit", you need the cat. Forced hot air furnaces consume a large amount of electricity. You might get 1 full night out of a battery if you run a furnace. If your idea of boondocking includes carrying a generator, and running it for quite a few hours every day to recharge your battery, then a furnace might be doable. I doubt there is enough roof area on a GT to support enough solar panels to replenish the juice that furnace will use.

Yeah, there will be cool spots with a cat heater. its not as even or "thorough" as a furnace. But the older GTs had very "open" floor plans, so air should circulate enough. There is a trade off, but it should be warm enough. The old catalytic in my trailer, which is 23', throws a ton of heat. I've never run it above its lowest setting; it'll roast you out of the thing.
Ditto everything.....we went for two years before I replaced the furnace. The only thing we gained was a bit of floor space.
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Old 09-29-2010, 06:50 AM   #18
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The whole point of a catalytic is that there is NO CO. there is no "combustion", as such. It is a chemical reaction that yields CO2, and H20 and heat.
you would not be able to use it in an enclosed space, otherwise. The venting is to prevent depletion of O2. And as previously stated, they come w/ o2 sensors these days, so they'll shut down if there isn't won't run low on o2 if there is a window or vent cracked.

I've also experienced the "low power heater not heating an ice-cold trailer". At a campground w/ hookups in the fall, when it was getting colder, I pulled out my trusty $20 ceramic/electric heater, and fired it up. went off to do other things for a few hours...came back to the trailer, and it was still very cold, with the heater there, cranking away. So, I fired up the furnace...70 degrees in about 5 minutes. So, yeah. they're powerfull. But once it shut down after satisfying the thermostat, it never came back on for the rest of the night. IOW...the small heater is capable of matching the heat load (this was outside temps in the upper 20's/low 30's) and maintaining the temperature...just not enough to exceed that by very much, and raise the temp of a very cold trailer.


A friend has one of those propane fireplaces...very cool. But also, very spendy.

If you have a large, new trailer, your budget for $$$ and space are likely very different than someone with an old, small one.
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Old 09-29-2010, 07:14 AM   #19
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Any ideas what that fireplace/CAT heater is called I have tried google and have not had any luck finding it. I am in the same boat with my 53 Cruiser. I have been debating forced air or CAT.
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Old 09-29-2010, 08:28 AM   #20
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That's a Newport propane heater. There is also a diesel and a solid fuel (wood or charcoal) version. You can get them from marine places; manuals are here.

I would much rather have a Newport heater than a cat. I think the Newport heater is inherently safer, also, you don't have to leave a window or vent open while using it.

The Sardine and Cod wood stoves from Navigator Stove Works usually come up, also, in these types of discussions.

The main problems with all these options are the amount of space you give up (once clearances and space for the flue are allowed for) and the complexity of the installation.

A middle road to consider would be the Atwood 8012 "Everest" heater which is a forced air heater designed for unducted use, which draws much less current (1.2A) than the larger 30,000 btu furnaces (5A-7A depending on model).
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Old 09-29-2010, 08:33 AM   #21
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Cool thanks for the info. My 53 already has a hole in the ceiling for a flue. i am guessing it had a old panel ray heater next to the door.
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Old 09-29-2010, 08:43 AM   #22
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The designs of the Newport and the old Panel Ray are essentially the same except that the Newport draws combustion air from outside using the space between the two walls of the flue, so you should be good. Modern trailers lack open floor-to-ceiling bulkheads with sufficient clearance. If my kitchen cabinets, counters, and roof locker were 4" smaller I could fit a Newport heater by the door, but I don't want to carve up perfectly good cabinets and move plumbing and the furnace to recover the space.
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Old 09-29-2010, 10:42 AM   #23
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I really like the Dickinson Newport. We're still in renovation stage, but we had it installed on a temporary bulkhead for last winter so I could continue to work inside. It did a great job and it was doing it in an empty, but insulated shell.

The fireplace effect is cool and I think the closed system has a lot going for it. We've had the diesel version on the boat for years as well. It is pricey, though, no doubt. Got ours through

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Old 10-01-2010, 08:45 PM   #24
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CAT refers to a catalytic heater in this case.

Here's a link to an article about them, including why they don't have a flue in the usual sense.

Google catalytic heater and you'll see a selection of them...

If it's to be, it's up to me.
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