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Old 04-07-2011, 03:33 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fmrcaptevil View Post
Anyone know why my duotherm trips its c/b after a few hours of heat pump operation?
(a/c mode OK)
Just to be sure, do you see the breaker open or could the HP be going into its defrost function? I know the first time you experience this (usually after some long run times), you wonder what is wrong since the only thing running is the compressor (and not very loud at that). Flipping the breaker can over ride the defrost cycle and restart the heat pump. When running in AC mode you don't have a cycle like that.

Jack
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Old 04-07-2011, 03:40 PM   #16
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Yes, it trips the breaker. (We're at Babler this month, Jack.).....elwood
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Old 04-08-2011, 07:07 AM   #17
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Thanks Chris for the upgrade offer. Will post the results once I get back to Houston and get her in the shop. Lucky it was a cool night in Orlando last night.
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Old 04-11-2011, 08:25 PM   #18
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OK I took the cover off her and removed the side panel two sheet metal screws. See the circuit board and the big capacitor to the right of it. Hot wire is what color and is neutral the black? Not too comfortable climbing on top so am on the ladder from the side. PPL needs exact model number or unit to help me on the part. Still looking for that.
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Old 04-11-2011, 09:13 PM   #19
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The data card of the unit will be a sticker on the inside of the unit after you take off the plastic shroud. I can't remember if it's curb side or street side but you can't miss it. Looks like the attached.

Also, if can try to tap the reversing valve too. Sometimes that frees them up too. If it does work be aware it may not be a permeant fix...
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Old 04-11-2011, 09:14 PM   #20
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OK I took the cover off her and removed the side panel two sheet metal screws. See the circuit board and the big capacitor to the right of it. Hot wire is what color and is neutral the black? Not too comfortable climbing on top so am on the ladder from the side. PPL needs exact model number or unit to help me on the part. Still looking for that.
You will have a 'standard' electrical cable feeding the 120VAC into the board and capacitors. Ground is green and will be wired to the base ban somewhere. Hot is black and will go directly into the relay board (the K-5 relay) IIRC. The neutral is white and will go into the capacitors.

You can kneel on the roof easily if you take a 2 X 8 or so and put some padding under it, then place it across a couple of rivet lines (roof joists) and you will be very secure and do no damage.

The large capacitor is the run cap. They usually do not go bad. The one you are looking for is the start capacitor, which is the smaller of the two and is usually horizontal just beneath the large cap, and the 'motor starter device' commonly known as a 'PTCR'. There are 2 types that Dometic uses, depending on the year the unit was built.

There might be a small black rectangle attached directly to the start cap. This is where you should pay special attention and look for a singed or burnt PTCR. The other type is remotely located away from the start cap and is shaped like a little barrel. They should show continuity if they are good.

We were also talking about your reversing valve coil. It is either at or very near the compressor. Two black wires coming from it. One goes to the 'board' and the other to the caps. This should show resistance in the neighborhood of 400 ohms, depending on the model.

Your data sticker with the model # should be located on the street side of the unit on the base pan, back near the condenser coil.
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Old 04-11-2011, 09:42 PM   #21
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I was looking at it from the street side with the ladder up against the awning. Will try looking at it from the curbside to get the model number. I take it the Penguin model comes in different configurations and sizes.
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Old 04-11-2011, 10:05 PM   #22
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Is the Ball looking thing in the corner normal

Here is a pic from the top. First thought is the ball think in the corner was a bees nest. Is that right or is it something that's supposed to be there? Also from the ovehead where is the heatpump valve? Didn't see the serial number but there is a sheet underneath, hard to read unless you get down close to it.
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Old 04-11-2011, 11:23 PM   #23
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Here is a pic from the top. First thought is the ball think in the corner was a bees nest. Is that right or is it something that's supposed to be there? Also from the ovehead where is the heatpump valve? Didn't see the serial number but there is a sheet underneath, hard to read unless you get down close to it.
OMG that is a huge (wasp?) nest!!! I'd be just as afraid of that as those capacitors!

The reversing valve is the small brass cylindrical object (with the copper lines coming out of it) that's sort of strapped to the big black object (compressor)....
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Old 04-11-2011, 11:56 PM   #24
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OMG that is a huge (wasp?) nest!!! I'd be just as afraid of that as those capacitors!

The reversing valve is the small brass cylindrical object (with the copper lines coming out of it) that's sort of strapped to the big black object (compressor)....
You should be WAY more afraid of wasps than caps... the capacitors only hurt you if you poke them, and won't follow you if you run away.
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Old 04-12-2011, 12:33 AM   #25
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I'm pretty sure the wasps stayed up in Penn. where I bought the trailer. Don't look like Texas wasp nest. But will carefully remove it. So should trace the wires back from the valve to the PC board to test it, and tap valve with hammer to see if it un sticks.

Wouldn't want to take that shroud off if the wasp nest was alive up on that roof.
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Old 04-12-2011, 08:47 AM   #26
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May be another cause

In my 2003 Classic, the AC started to occasionally stay in heat pump mode when starting up. The heat coming out of the unit at over 100 degrees outside is unbelievable; I could not hold my hand near the vents. We travel with cats and that would kill them in minutes. The AC was replaced and was OK for a while, then started failing again. The AC was replaced a second time.

At the Springfield International, the Dometic Tech replaced the thermostat. No help. I traded the trailer on the spot for the Classic 28 I now have. We have had no similar problems with the new trailer.

What I did learn from the Dometic Tech is that the thermostat comes with 20+' of 4-wire telephone cord that carries commands to the AC. Outer wires are 12v and ground while inner wires carry encoded signals, much like the USB port on a computer. A signal sequence is required to switch from heat pump to AC mode. The thermostat is mounted beside the microwave and the excess wire is behind the microwave. Airstream is supposed to be carefully coil the excess to insure against picking up stray radiation.

What was not changed? The only related thing not changed in my case was the microwave. I designed and debugged electronics all through my 35 years at IBM and my opinion is that I had a faulty microwave that was emitting radiation that was cratering the circuit board in the AC.

I think making heat pump the native mode is very dangerous. People can respond to the heat and get out or shut it down, but animals can not escape. As a belt and suspenders thing, I now have a filter from a USB cable installed on the telephone cable at the microwave to catch any possible unwanted RF.
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Old 04-12-2011, 06:57 PM   #27
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Sound like the 'Voo-doo' Coleman that I was working on last year. Seems that the unit would do strange things like turn itself on or off when the thermostat was calling for the opposite to happen.

We looked hi and low for a causes and by accident (as many great discoveries occur), we found that the fluorescent lights that were mounted to the ceiling just below the A/C unit were emitting RF signals that were messing with the relay board in the A/C unit. Once we disconnected the lights from the 12VDC supply lines, they never had a problem again!

We changed out the fluorescents for two banks of halogen puck lights and the problem was finally solved. And BTW, neither shielding nor filters seemed to tame the wayward ballasts that were causing the problems.
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Old 04-13-2011, 08:35 AM   #28
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Will clean out the wasp nest and tap on the reversing valve tonight. Hopefully track down the leads to the solenoid and check that. It's hard to imagine that I have to take the cover off this thing, climb on the roof to look into the bottom of the unit just to determine the model number so I can arrange parts service.
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