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Old 12-28-2014, 08:29 AM   #435
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The bedroom unit has less duct work to blow through.
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Old 12-28-2014, 02:44 PM   #436
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But, why is one side so much more powerful than the other?
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Old 12-28-2014, 02:56 PM   #437
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Because of where the squirrel cage fan is inside the a/c housing (not necessarily center, but left or right of center) and how many straight runs of duct work vs. elbows/angles/bends-
In a vehicle the air possibly blows harder on the passenger side or the middle than on the extreme left vent due to proximity to the fan and how much duct work it has to travel through.
In my house, it blows harder in the bathroom and less the further you get from the furnace. The living room is warmer than. The kitchen or bedrooms.
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Old 12-28-2014, 06:45 PM   #438
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I think I may have this figured out...... to get the air distribution approximately equal right to left.... Some resistance in the one blowing too much should force more to the other side.
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Old 12-28-2014, 09:53 PM   #439
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Moms does this drawing help?

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Old 12-28-2014, 09:57 PM   #440
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I think I may have this figured out...... to get the air distribution approximately equal right to left.... Some resistance in the one blowing too much should force more to the other side.
Yep. Or at least slow it down so it is equal to the other side.
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Old 12-29-2014, 09:29 AM   #441
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In a home forced air system, the duct work starts large at the discharge of the air handler and gets smaller as one gets to the end of the line. It does the reverse on the return side. We then had adjustable registers at each outlet and an airflow gage to balance the airflow in each room. The returns were always wide open.

I am a little dusty on this, but one ton of air conditioning (12,000 BTU) needed about 400 cfm (cubic feet per minute) of air flow to keep the coil from frosting. Thus the analogy would be that the 13,500 BTU small AC in dual systems needs to move 450 cfm and the larger 15,000 BTU unit needs to move 500 cfm. Thus the noise associated with the fan moving that much air.

To save costs, I would imagine that Airstream does the same thing they do with the furnace and runs the same size duct all the way on the run. The best way to try and balance the air flow is with adjustable flow registers.

Our unit came with squashed crossed ducting (I photoed that defect on the assembly line when the kitchen cabinet was placed on top of the ducting during the assembly). The factory never must not have checked for airflow from all the registers. Our first trial trip there was no heat into the rear of the trailer. I showed the photo to the dealer and they were able to uncross the ducting without removing the cabinet . Amazing, there was air flow to the bedroom.

I would be concerned that early models might have issues with the duct installation....
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Old 12-29-2014, 10:54 AM   #442
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Last trip at the factory I talked with the duct installer. Ducts are very basic and what I saw match what is depicted in the drawing.

As I remember the long ducts are the same size in cross section. A guess would be about 2 inches high and 5 inches wide. Looking at the diagram it would make sense that the back would 'blow' harder than the front since there isn't much of the long ducts to the back of the AC unit to the end of the run as compared to the front one. At least in the drawing. May be different based on the various layouts of AC units and their placement on the different lengths of trailers.
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Old 12-30-2014, 10:14 AM   #443
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The metal ducts on our single AC unit are the same size front to rear - I would not expect otherwise on a less than 25' overall run; The actual heat pump is near the middle of the trailer. Furnace ducting is different as it incorporates variable sizes of flex ducting running under and near the floor.

You can see the upper ducts when you remove the louvers and they appear to be uniform front to back. The louver vanes may be bent slightly to impart directionality and best distribute the air...also may be installed with the vanes pointing 180 degrees from the original position; however, it is likely that bending / unbending would eventually damage the louvers. So, an external deflector (sold for under $5 at local hardware stores) attached with velcro or magnets might be a better solution. We have done just that with the rotating furnace louvers in the galley under the Eddie Bauer folding seats (magnets recessed into the wood allows for air flow control) but are quite happy with our current ducted air conditioning as engineered and delivered by AS.
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Old 12-30-2014, 10:16 AM   #444
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Too much of a rectangle which makes for a thin duct can cause air cavitation at the thin edges. The most efficient duct work design is round followed by square. I vaguely remember the ratio of 2 to 1 being the suggested profile.

The thin design could have too much resistance and the extreme ends farthest from the fan could have less flow.

Neat concept.
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Old 12-31-2014, 07:41 AM   #445
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A couple of weeks ago my front unit (Zone 1 on my 2015 27fb) dropped out of service as it does not cool or heat the air any longer, therefore I leave it off until replacement. Last evening before I went to sleep I placed (Zone 2) on Auto and selected the interior temp of 65 as the low was forecast to be right at freezing by sunrise. I woke up this morning and moved the thermostat up to 71. The outside air temp is 33.4 and the heat pump is still blowing very hot air, and it only took less than 10 mins to warm the cabin to 71 with the HP only. (Note Zone 2 has the option of Furnace, so when it gets very cold when AUTO selected the HP should drop out and the furnace take over.)

Non-Ducted, the contrast on my 2011 25fb with one only AC/HP I would select Auto on a cold night and the HP would run consistently trying to keep up, and never could, I could hear it going into defrost and then turn back on attempting to keep the cabin temperature at the selected temp but it never could. Then when the out side air temp would reach about 35, when AUTO was selected the HP would drop out and the furnace would kick in and it would quickly raise the interior temp to the selected temp on the thermostat. On my new dual zone thermostat, it no longer has a button to get the exterior temp.

My question, does AUTO still switch over to furnace when the HP cannot extract any more heat from the air, or at 32?
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Old 12-31-2014, 09:27 AM   #446
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Can anyone take a short video in their ducted AS with the AC off and then on so we can hopefully hear the difference?. Since its winter run the heat pump. It should be similar to AC operation.

Kelvin
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Old 01-01-2015, 12:40 PM   #447
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Quote:
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Can anyone take a short video in their ducted AS with the AC off and then on so we can hopefully hear the difference?. Since its winter run the heat pump. It should be similar to AC operation.

Kelvin
It is now below zero F outside; so no can do with regards to the HP at this time, but check my earlier posts in this thread; that "hearable difference" is exactly what I posted ... not sure of the post number - but a video with the same device recording from the same position in the same model - just that the first video and stats was a 2013 EB without ducted air and the second was a 2015 EB with ducted air.

Quote:
Originally Posted by LaBigDogs View Post
... Last evening before I went to sleep I placed (Zone 2) on Auto and selected the interior temp of 65 as the low was forecast to be right at freezing by sunrise. I woke up this morning and moved the thermostat up to 71. The outside air temp is 33.4 and the heat pump is still blowing very hot air, and it only took less than 10 mins to warm the cabin to 71 with the HP only. ...

Be reminded -IIRC- that AS (and others) warn to not use the heat pump when the ambient temperatures are expected to be 40 F or below.
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Old 01-01-2015, 02:39 PM   #448
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Off subject a little but I could not find the refrigerator fan for my 2015 30' Cloud. The dealer said that the new models do not require a fan. I have not played with my trailer yet so have not had the opportunity to look around. Does anyone know if this is true???
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