Visit our Popular Forums

camphost · 06-29-2009, 11:35 AM

I just have to agree. I think foam would be a much better choice.

Rebee · 06-29-2009, 11:46 AM

Kevin,

I have a similar problem with the AC in my classic. I talked with my AC expert he advised me "do not" break the lines and add any fittings.
Under normal conditions a sealed system does not leak and the freon does not deterioate. He did suggest checking the inside vents to ensure they are clear of any obstructions such as insulation and trim material, then remove the cover on the roof and using a cleaner like Spray Nine, 409 or a "coil cleaner" and spray the coils, then rinse with a garden hose. He indicated dirt will build up on the coils, you can not see it but it does restrict the cooling ability.

dale

dstalzer · 07-06-2009, 11:06 AM

We camped at Lake Georgetown the past 4 days and had similar problems with our 25' Classic and Dometic Penguin 15K A/C. We were in a partial shaded site keeping the night shades drawn and with the awning out. The breaker for the A/C tripped 2 times and had to be reset. At first I thought this happened because of the fan setting was on low. It did help by setting the fan to high and setting the thermostat up around 77 so the unit would cycle (when set at 77 the temp was around 79 - 80, maybe not calibrated correctly). After using the high fan setting, we were able to keep the temp no higher than 80 during the 100+ outside temperature. I was wondering if low freon could be causing the A/C to draw too much current which was making the breaker trip. Does anyone have an idea about this.

Dennis

bob34787 · 07-06-2009, 11:39 AM

I would more suspect low current at the campsite during peak demand. My 08 28' with the 15,000 heat pump had no problems two weeks ago during temps approaching 100 here in florida. My wife was actually very cold and had to wear a hooded sweatshirt in the trailer. I keep the temp at 68 and fan on high to keep my two snow dogs cool.

dstalzer · 07-06-2009, 11:42 AM

Immediately after the breaker tripped, I went out and checked the voltage at the power post I was plugged into and it was reading 125V, so I think low voltage was not the problem.

Dennis

Jabreyd13 · 07-07-2009, 09:35 PM

It got up to 105 today and I am in full sun and my Penguin 13.5 unit is killing me. Literally. The walls were 93 degrees and radiating heat like and oven. I thought these things were insulated better. I am in for a long summer since temps are going to be this way for the next couple of weeks at least. Oklahoma Summers are hot! I need two units, and I only have a 31 footer. I am not going to damage my original interior trying to reinsulate. I wish I was a heat and air guy!

Jaxon · 07-08-2009, 09:55 PM

Same temps here in Austin, Okie... We just changed out our Dometic 13.5 for a Carrier 15, low profile. Made a significant difference. Back in the clover...

Anybody want to buy a used Dometic 13.5 A/C with heat strip? Needs a circuit board but other than that, works great for under 100 degree temps...

Jabreyd13 · 07-08-2009, 10:21 PM

It looks like I too have a 13.5K Dometic Penguin for sale with a heat strip. It works great in 100 degree heat, but only at night.

Davis · 07-09-2009, 04:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jaxon

Same temps here in Austin, Okie... We just changed out our Dometic 13.5 for a Carrier 15, low profile. Made a significant difference. Back in the clover...

Anybody want to buy a used Dometic 13.5 A/C with heat strip? Needs a circuit board but other than that, works great for under 100 degree temps...

Hi Jaxon,
What temps are you seeing inside your trailer after the new a/c was installed ? Also do you have a drain pan for the water runoff or is it not required ? Thanks

Rebee · 07-09-2009, 04:56 AM

Has anyone tried cleaning their cooling coils? I cleaned mine last weekend and got a large amount of black material out. Looked like mildew, came out in chunks. Prior to cleaning, coils appeared to be clean from the outside looking in. I used an AC Coil cleaner from True Value, I am sure any hardware store would have some type. Comes with a pump sprayer handle. Spray in the coils let stand 8 to 10 minutes then spray out with garden hose.

Temps here have been cool and I have not put it to the test yet. Plan to clean one more time when I get it home.

dale

Jaxon · 07-09-2009, 07:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Davis

Hi Jaxon,
What temps are you seeing inside your trailer after the new a/c was installed ? Also do you have a drain pan for the water runoff or is it not required ? Thanks

Davis, the Carrier is using the same line as the Dometic for condensation drain. Haven't checked the temp inside yet... I can tell you the interior is cooler is less time - the oscillating vents do help distribute the cool air more quickly. Besides the increased capacity of the Carrier 15k, it's also new so that may be a factor... the dometic was less than 4 years old & in good condition, wouldn't think it'd make that much of a difference...

Yesterday was 105 here in Austin... that puts the heat index close to 110 with the humidity we're having.

Foiled Again · 07-09-2009, 10:08 AM

I've got a 2006 25 FB with the 15K unit - and in hot, sticky, humid Virginia Beach it keeps me very comfortable on even the hottest day. I rarely use my awning because I still work and I don't want to leave it open and risk having a sudden storm come along and destroy it when I'm away from the campground.

I never thought about cleaning the coils - but it's obviously something that should fall under periodic maintenance. I am assuming that since you have to wash it out with a garden hose, that means taking it off the roof and reinstalling it... anyone got an idea of what that would cost because it's something I wouldn't attempt to do alone.

Now, getting a forums "maintenance rally" together in the spring and helping each other might work, but I've learned that I don't heal up as fast as I used to, and I already have a picture of myself lying by the side of my stream with the A/C on top of me... looking vaguely like a turtle on it's back... thinking OH SH.... HURTZZZZZ.

Paula

**jcanavera** · 07-09-2009, 10:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Foiled Again

I never thought about cleaning the coils - but it's obviously something that should fall under periodic maintenance. I am assuming that since you have to wash it out with a garden hose, that means taking it off the roof and reinstalling it... anyone got an idea of what that would cost because it's something I wouldn't attempt to do alone.

Now, getting a forums "maintenance rally" together in the spring and helping each other might work, but I've learned that I don't heal up as fast as I used to, and I already have a picture of myself lying by the side of my stream with the A/C on top of me... looking vaguely like a turtle on it's back... thinking OH SH.... HURTZZZZZ.

Paula

Good thought about those coils. Especially those of us with the heat pump models since we probably have more run time on these units. Just thinking about the maintenance I do on my home unit. I clean those coils almost 3 times a year. I always see debris coming out, even though basic inspection would make you think those coils are clean.

If you have a more standard type ac unit with the exposed rear coils, it's pretty easy to get a water hose up to squirt water through those coils from the outside in. With the Penguin units my thought would be the need to pull that shroud off since the coils are semi protected and much harder to get water on.

Jack

Davis · 07-09-2009, 02:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jaxon

Davis, the Carrier is using the same line as the Dometic for condensation drain. Haven't checked the temp inside yet... I can tell you the interior is cooler is less time - the oscillating vents do help distribute the cool air more quickly. Besides the increased capacity of the Carrier 15k, it's also new so that may be a factor... the dometic was less than 4 years old & in good condition, wouldn't think it'd make that much of a difference...

Yesterday was 105 here in Austin... that puts the heat index close to 110 with the humidity we're having.

Hi Jaxon,
Thanks for the reply. If you do have a thermometer to check the inside temps I would be interested to know and compare it to my trailer to see if it would be wise for me to go ahead and upgrade to a 15k unit. Also did you buy a new drip pan for the Carrier unit ? Thanks

Crusty · 07-12-2009, 02:09 PM

I've had some good results with my cooling in this awful heat. Based on a previous post (I think in this thread) I bought a patio mister hose and yesterday laid it out down the length of the trailer roof and turned the water on. I saw an 8º interior temperature drop within an hour or so and today I'm nice and cool inside with the mist on the top of my trailer. The interior walls don't feel warm to the touch now.

I think this solution will get me through the summer and when it cools down in the fall I believe that I'm going to paint the roof panel with white Kool-Seal for a permanent solution.

Jaxon · 07-12-2009, 02:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Davis

Hi Jaxon,
Thanks for the reply. If you do have a thermometer to check the inside temps I would be interested to know and compare it to my trailer to see if it would be wise for me to go ahead and upgrade to a 15k unit. Also did you buy a new drip pan for the Carrier unit ? Thanks

Put a 'AAA' battery in the gauge on the counter and the temp read 78 at 3:00pm. AC had been on low speed, coolness knob at half way. Turned fan to hi-cool and setting to "coldest" and within 20 mins., temp. was 74 and going down (slowing down, though). We have trees over us with the front end open facing east. Again, the ocillating louvers really help circulate the cool air.

When we had the 13.5, we did use an oscillating fan on the counter. Haven't had to with this AC.

Foiled Again · 07-12-2009, 02:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jcanavera

Good thought about those coils. Especially those of us with the heat pump models since we probably have more run time on these units. Just thinking about the maintenance I do on my home unit. I clean those coils almost 3 times a year. I always see debris coming out, even though basic inspection would make you think those coils are clean.

If you have a more standard type ac unit with the exposed rear coils, it's pretty easy to get a water hose up to squirt water through those coils from the outside in. With the Penguin units my thought would be the need to pull that shroud off since the coils are semi protected and much harder to get water on.

Jack

So this is done with the A/C in place, on the roof? There's no chance of water going inside?

Paula

Davis · 07-12-2009, 03:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jaxon

Put a 'AAA' battery in the gauge on the counter and the temp read 78 at 3:00pm. AC had been on low speed, coolness knob at half way. Turned fan to hi-cool and setting to "coldest" and within 20 mins., temp. was 74 and going down (slowing down, though). We have trees over us with the front end open facing east. Again, the ocillating louvers really help circulate the cool air.

When we had the 13.5, we did use an oscillating fan on the counter. Haven't had to with this AC.

Hi Jaxon,
Thanks for the reply this sounds like I need to upgrade to a 15K unit .

Also the post on the hose mister sounded good also .

**jcanavera** · 07-12-2009, 04:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Foiled Again

So this is done with the A/C in place, on the roof? There's no chance of water going inside?

Paula

As long as things are sealed correctly and the units drains are clear, it shouldn't cause a problem. Now keep in mind that those fins are somewhat fragile so you shouldn't be hitting them with a power washer strength water stream. A typical garden hose squirting opposite the direction of the air flow through the coils will push out more debris that squirting the same direction of the air flow.