Journey with Confidence RV GPS App RV Trip Planner RV LIFE Campground Reviews RV Maintenance Take a Speed Test Free 7 Day Trial ×
 

Go Back   Airstream Forums > Airstream Restoration, Repair & Parts Forums > Interior Restoration Forum > Furnaces, Heaters, Fireplaces & Air Conditioning
Click Here to Login
Register Vendors FAQ Community Calendar Today's Posts Search Log in

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 07-08-2013, 09:39 AM   #1
Rivet Master
 
damonbeals's Avatar
 
1998 31' Excella 1000
1979 23' Safari
Mooresville , Indiana
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 598
Dometic Heat Pump with a leak, fixable?

The Dometic Heat Pump on my 1998 Excella quit, and after popping the top I found one of the capillary tubes was rubbing against the output of the compressor and rubbed a hole in the capillary pipe.

I know most people just throw the units away and buy a new one, but I'm cheap and would rather repair and try to get a few more years out of it.

Anyone have any suggestions on how to fix this type of leak? I would assume I need to find a larger tube and just make a patch? Then install a tap on the low side and add some R-22, simple!

Damon
#4827
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	ac-leak.jpg
Views:	136
Size:	238.7 KB
ID:	190501  
damonbeals is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-08-2013, 09:42 AM   #2
4 Rivet Member
 
2008 16' Safari
Destrehan , Louisiana
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 395
You could try to silver solder it. How skilled are you with silver solder?
dlb435 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-08-2013, 09:44 AM   #3
Figment of My Imagination
 
Protagonist's Avatar
 
2012 Interstate Coach
From All Over , More Than Anywhere Else
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 10,868
Quote:
Originally Posted by damonbeals View Post
The Dometic Heat Pump on my 1998 Excella quit, and after popping the top I found one of the capillary tubes was rubbing against the output of the compressor and rubbed a hole in the capillary pipe.

I know most people just throw the units away and buy a new one, but I'm cheap and would rather repair and try to get a few more years out of it.

Anyone have any suggestions on how to fix this type of leak? I would assume I need to find a larger tube and just make a patch? Then install a tap on the low side and add some R-22, simple!

Damon
#4827
Cut out the hole altogether, and insert a new piece of same-size tube with appropriate fittings on the end. If you're installing a tap you're going to have to cut the tube anyway to do it, so it's hardly any extra work, even.

Should be easier and more certain than brazing on a patch that could either leak or clog the tube if done wrong.
__________________
I thought getting old would take longer!
Protagonist is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-08-2013, 11:09 AM   #4
Rivet Master
 
1974 Argosy 20
2014 20' Flying Cloud
Kooskia , Idaho
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 4,591
Unless you are a pretty good refrigeration mechanic with tools and skills to repair the very small tube (which has a critical diameter and length) as well as adding a port to evacuate and charge the system, and the vacuum pump and charging equipment and a way to add just the right charge this is not a do it yourself repair. In addition, the tube appears to be attached to a second tube, part of the superheat design of the unit.

To have it professionally done would probably be over half the cost of a new unit, and it still would need to be removed and replaced for the repair.

Sorry for the bad news.
idroba is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-08-2013, 11:52 AM   #5
Rivet Master
Commercial Member
 
Vintage Kin Owner
Naples , Florida
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 7,508
Not to pile on.....but........

That is one of your capillary tubes that are responsible for proper metering of the refrigerant as it goes into the evaporator. You can't 'just fix' a cap tube. It must be replaced from one end to the other.

As stated above, the process goes like this:

• use 2 piercing valves, one for low side and one for high side and evacuate whatever is left of any refrigerant into a proper container per federal regulations with a vacuum pump.

• do your tubing replacement

• remove the piercing valves and solder in 2 permanent Schrader valves. Again, one for the high side and one for the low side

• pressure test the system with nitrogen to be sure you have no leaks.

• purge nitrogen and re-charge the system with the proper amounts of applicable refrigerant and compressor lubricating oil per the specifications on the A/C data plate. Observe the parameters for BOTH sides of the cooling circuit.

• fire up the unit for a test.

• IF you are successful, you still have an old, repaired unit that was never meant to be repaired in this manner. How long do you expect the rest of the unit to last?

If you are not a licensed refrigeration mechanic, I doubt that you will be able to acquire a sufficient amount of refrigerant (probably R-22) to do the job. Any competent A/C tech should be able to do a job like this.....but at what cost?

I think you will find that after you add up all the expenses, you will find that a new A/C unit with a warranty will serve you better.
__________________
lewster
Solar Tech Energy Systems, Inc.
Victron Solar Components and Inverters, Zamp Solar Panels, LiFeBlue and Battle Born Lithium Batteries, Lifeline AGM Batteries
lewster is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-14-2013, 09:31 AM   #6
Rivet Master
 
damonbeals's Avatar
 
1998 31' Excella 1000
1979 23' Safari
Mooresville , Indiana
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 598
An update on my heatpump. I found a local heat and air company who had also done several RV A/C repairs. (and recommend by a good friend) They where able to patch the hole in the capillary tube, they charged the system with Nitrogen and checked for leaks, then used a vacuum pump to remove any moisture. Installed a line tap, added 24oz of R-22. Unit is working great and just as cold as it was before the leak.

Yes, I don't know how long the unit will last!

Lessons learned, when you do your annual maintenance, remove the A/C cover and look for pipes that are rubbing, and clean out the coils if dirty, and remove the wasp nest.

I know repair isn't recommend, but I had to try and I will update when or if the unit fails again. I predict the failures will be the line tap will develop a leak, the patch fails or the compressor finally fails.

And for those curious about the cost, the repair was less then $200! For fun I called Airstream and was quoted $2100 for a new unit installed!

Damon
#4827
damonbeals is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-14-2013, 10:06 AM   #7
Rivet Master
 
1974 Argosy 20
2014 20' Flying Cloud
Kooskia , Idaho
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 4,591
Glad you found someone who would work on it, and do a good repair. Those shops are few and far between these days. Lets hope it holds up over time.
idroba is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Disclaimer:

This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by the Airstream, Inc. or any of its affiliates. Airstream is a registered trademark of Airstream Inc. All rights reserved. Airstream trademark used under license to Social Knowledge LLC.



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 05:08 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.