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Old 05-12-2012, 03:55 PM   #1
Rivet Master
1981 31' Excella II
New Market , Alabama
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 5,284
Dometic Drain Kit Worthless

Well I just installed a new Dometic Brisk Air on my trailer and the drain kit is a joke and does not work properly. I hate buying something and then have to re-engineer it. First of all the cup only drains the water coming from the Evaporator(cold thingy). The lines coming from the compressor sweat as well and the water from that just drips out a hole at the bottom of a trough. The trough leads to the return cup but since there is a hole there, it drains out before it gets there. Also the back of the unit is leaning away from the drain cup. So water tends to move away from the drain cup not towards it. In front of the drain cup on the right side there is a screw that leaks water like mad as well.

So I am going to have to unbolt the unit and flip it over on its back and plug the holes and seal the drain cup so water won't leak out of it. I know your thinking the water will build up and cause problems but there are lots of other holes for it to leak out of if that happens. I am going to have to make a shim to level the unit. The compressor is at the rear of the unit so it is going to sag and compress the foam supports under there. Yes even if you tighten the bolts in the front the rear will sag.

The cup on the right hand side does not fit flush because of the trough I spoke of above.

I bought the Dometic because it had a drain kit (THAT DOES NOT WORK). At the time, the only way to have a drain was to use the Airstream Drain Pan. I heard something on here about a new Coleman that has some sort of pump for the condensate water. I wish I had heard about that sooner.


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Old 05-12-2012, 05:46 PM   #2
Rivet Master
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Naples, FL , Hood River, OR
Join Date: Dec 2005
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I have to tell you that I have installed over 75 of these drain kits on larger motor homes (as they almost all have interior drain lines) and more than a few Airstreams and I have yet to see one that does not work properly; that is to remove all of the condensate from the A/C and guide it to the drain cups, where it then flows thru the interior drain lines to the bottom of the coach. I have even installed them on a few stationary RVs with no drain lines, creating a drain path on the roof so the condensate does not run all over the place.

If your A/C is sloping to the rear of the trailer, you either have not tightened the gaskets sufficiently to compress them to 50% of the original thickness, or you have not positioned the included foam strips so they keep the rear of the A/C stable and level.

Yes, RVP Coleman units use a drain pump for the condensate, and these units are very comparable to the Dometic units. They are a bit more difficult to wire with a remote thermostat, as they require a 7-wire harness, not just a phone-type 4 conductor data cable.

PM me if you have any other questions.

Lew Farber...RVIA Certified Master Tech...ABYC Certified Master Marine Electrician
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Old 05-30-2012, 06:15 AM   #3
Rivet Master
1981 31' Excella II
New Market , Alabama
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 5,284
I tightend the bolts to level the unit and it is working better but there is still the issue of the hole in the drain path from the compressor lines. When the humidity is high it is going to leak there because of the hole in that gutter that leads to the cup. Why would they put a gutter in there that leads to the cup and then put a hole in the middle of it so it drains out before getting to the cup. That same gutter prevents the drain cup on the right side from sitting level. The cup should have a notch cut in it. I realize the cup should not be tightly sealed but it should at least be level.

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