Dometic Brisk II install

[adonh]

I just completed installing a new Dometic Brisk II 15,000 BTU AC on my 1976 31' Sovereign. I replaced an 8 or 9 year old Carrier that had a bad motor. The install was fairly straight forward just a matter of removing the 4 four bolts that held the unit on the roof to the base on the inside ceiling and then attaching the new unit on the roof with 4 bolts to the base on the inside ceiling. But as you guess there was more to it than that. Primarily getting the old Carrier off the roof and getting the new Dometic up on the roof required the help of 2 friends some careful moving lifting and positioning. After a couple of hours that task was done with no damage.

I did install the Dometic Auxiliary Drain system that seems to work very well.

The new Dometic Brisk II is well built and produces Cold air for sure. But the Dometic Air Distribution ceiling cover that directs the flow of cold air and the intake of the return air falls way short in my opinion. If you look at the base of the unit on the ceiling the return air duct takes up the front portion of the unit and the cold air discharge takes up the back portion of the unit. The air distribution cover has 5 cold air outlets/vents/openings, front, back, each side and a vent coming directly out the bottom of the cover that can be opened and closed. The two side vents in a narrow trailer are of little use at all and the back vent since it is right under the cold air discharge has very strong flow of air on any fan fan speed. But the front vent must receive cold air by means of a small open space on each side of the cover between the cover and the return air duct. Very little real air flow makes it out the front vent. So with the front and rear vents open and the 2 side vents and the bottom vent closed almost all of the cold air goes to the back of the trailer and almost none to the front. Therefore you are cool to cold in the back and warm to hot in the front during the heat of the day. Also there are really no directional vents in the cover with louvers to direct the air flow just openings in the cover with a door so to speak that can be raised or lowered to open and close the vent. Not what I had expected and the poor balance of air flow between the front and rear of the trailer is hard to deal with.

Very disappointed

[cwf]

The "air box" is awful. We have fans to move air where we want it.

[perryg114]

Yes the airbox is not great. Mine leaks a lot but I have not put much time into making an adapter plate for the curved ceiling. The leaks also cause the thermostat to short cycle since it senses the cold air coming out of the unit instead of room air and it cuts off too soon. Also even when this is not the case the thermostat starts cutting the unit off at about 75 degrees and will not let the unit run at all below 70 degrees.

Perry

[CanoeU70]

Gracious: when I see "Rivet Masters" documenting the same problems I am having.....gulp.

Does anyone know where I can buy a new Dometic CCC2 thermostat control panel with an outside temp button?

We just had to abort a major trip up to Michigan via the air show in Oshkosh (where I had reservations to a special dinner with Alan Krantz, the Apollo 13 author of "failure is not an option."

It broke my heart to take the attached picture of our Airstream checking into a Holiday Inn Express because the ac was OOC.


My 2011 25 ft FC FBT (80th Anniversary edition) had to have its ac unit replaced on delivery day by a dealer in Tampa (the one who placed several Airstreams in the ground at angles like the Cadillacs in Texas...who has now sold out his business in that location).

Evidently, the dealer's mechanic used sealant beyond the 14 x 14 access hole such that I too frequently have had internal condensate flooding.

Before this trip, I disassembled the cover (unable to schedule a professional repair in less than a month's lead time) and blew out the drain hose plus poured a cup of Clorox water mixture down the tube to verify its drainage per a "smell test."

Based upon my YouTube viewing, I discovered that my unit should NOT be sealed on its outer edges AND that keeping the trailer level is very critical to prevention of internal condensate flooding IF the drain is properly working.

It totally surprised me to see how tiny the "cofferdam" is to stop condensate flooding.

Further, I discovered that my CCC2 controller's RJ11 plug had been submerged in periodic floodings and was corroded. I brass brushed the copper connections lightly and replaced the connector.

That cleared the dreaded "E7" errrors (unable to communicate with thermostat controller) but the error kept coming back until I wrapped the connector with a strong rubber band exacting just right the right force vector to make the connection tight.

However, my current state of jury rigged operation is "wide open on" with no thermostat control of temp.

Thus, I am considering replacement of the whole system (top unit, inside unit and thermostat) myself.

The nagging concern I have is that the "telephone wire" connecting the thermostat to the rooftop unit is defective and needs to be replaced.

Having already replaced the fancy thermostatic controlled vent fans (they broke in less than a year), I am keenly aware of how thin the insulation is between the roof's exterior and interior skin. If I use a "wire snake" or even the old "telephone wire" to pull a new wire, the RJ11 plug is bound to snag and pull insulation creating hot spot holidays.

As a naval engineer (1966-2014.....24 years Navy + 24 years private shipyards), I have known for that entire period that "you get what you INSPECT, not what you EXPECT."

Accordingly, the dealer was a little shocked when I showed up at delivery with an infrared laser dotting thermometer and air noise db meter because my main concerns before purchase was cooling and air flow noise. (I'm searching for those pics for a subsequent post).

On a typical 90 degree day in Tampa, the inside skin temp of my new Airstream was 122 degrees F. The poor salesman got a little peeved when I asked him to either go get a manager or the owner (who landed in his helo while I was there on his private roof top landing pad). I am not sure he understood that an ac is not operating properly when its exhaust air temp exceeds ambient temp.

It's a curse to know these things.

But what totally discourages me now is that UNLIKE the good practices we followed in the Navy and in Navy shipbuilding to provision and outfit our warships for a projected service life of 30 to 40 years, try finding a Dometic CCC2 with outside temp.

An Amazon buyer complained that despite the product depicted photo and write-up, the thermostat did NOT include that feature.

NUMEROUS users of this controller have complained about its complexity (2 zones when only 1 ac is installed) and even though I do confess that I am now a dedicated RTFTM (read....the tech manual), I could not for the life of me get my CCC2 to follow the commands of its own PDF manual obtained from Dometic's pathethic website.

IF this industry wants to truly take advantage of us baby boomers who now RV'ing in droves, then they darn well better start seeking "best practices" for technical documentation and parts support.

A very nice lady at Camping World in Iowa called every single Camping World within 500 miles to try and see if anyone had my CCC2 in stock. Unfortunately, Camping World was in the middle of a software stocking system "upgrade" (read it may not work properly for at least a year) and she told me that no parts on order could arrive sooner than 3 or 4 weeks.

That's why I had to abort. In 44 years of naval related service, lots of which was associated with "single screw ships"....NONE of MY SHIPS ever had to be towed back into port.

The Navy must be ready for "prompt sustained combat operations at sea"...WHEREVER that sea is located.

I don't plan to ever again visit a foreign country, certainly not via airplanes. Until I have "Airstreamed" every national park in America and every state park in Florida, my wanderlust can be achieved in the good ole US of A.

Recently, Airstream expanded their factory. In fact, we had a plant tour scheduled on our recently aborted big trip. Now it pains me to face that my 4 year old trailer has such problems that I now KNOW stem from both the dealer and the OEM.

I'll find a way or make one to get through all this. It may take some "Easter Egging" to buy a bunch of defective parts before I find the right ones. But I have "skills" and I have "time" to document these efforts in detail.

As we would have said in the Navy, "standby for heavy rolls."

[lewster]

Sorry you are experiencing so many issues with your A/C unit and CCC-II.

Actually, that t/stat can control up to 4 zones, and as you have only one roof unit, it should only be showing one zone. Who ever set up your unit is an idiot! But then, I also gad major issues with Bates RV where I bought my new 2006 19' CCD. Luckily, I got them to pay me for doing the repairs that were needed.

The 'outside temp sensor' that you mention is actually a remote location temp sensor. These are used extensively when more than one roof unit and multiple zones are present in the RV.

They can be easily added to the existing wiring by simple plug-in at the wire bundle that is located just beneath the unit. You will need Dometic's remote temp sensor kit.

The hardest part will be snaking the connection wire thru the skin to the proper location on the wall of the trailer.


Lew Farber
RVIA/RVDA Nationally Certified Master Tech
Master Tech Energy Systems, Inc.
AM Solar Certified Installation Center
Lifeline Batteries**Magnum Inverters
541-490-6357

[adonh]

Originally Posted by adonh

I
The new Dometic Brisk II is well built and produces Cold air for sure. But the Dometic Air Distribution ceiling cover that directs the flow of cold air and the intake of the return air falls way short in my opinion. If you look at the base of the unit on the ceiling the return air duct takes up the front portion of the unit and the cold air discharge takes up the back portion of the unit. The air distribution cover has 5 cold air outlets/vents/openings, front, back, each side and a vent coming directly out the bottom of the cover that can be opened and closed. The two side vents in a narrow trailer are of little use at all and the back vent since it is right under the cold air discharge has very strong flow of air on any fan fan speed. But the front vent must receive cold air by means of a small open space on each side of the cover between the cover and the return air duct. Very little real air flow makes it out the front vent. So with the front and rear vents open and the 2 side vents and the bottom vent closed almost all of the cold air goes to the back of the trailer and almost none to the front. Therefore you are cool to cold in the back and warm to hot in the front during the heat of the day. Also there are really no directional vents in the cover with louvers to direct the air flow just openings in the cover with a door so to speak that can be raised or lowered to open and close the vent. Not what I had expected and the poor balance of air flow between the front and rear of the trailer is hard to deal with.

Very disappointed

After exploring options, and talking with Dometic who told me that I had the only style Air Distribution box for the Dometic Brisk II I had to make a decision on what to do. The Air Distribution box was not cutting it and in the middle of a hot summer with 100 degree temps there had to be something that I could do to make this work. So I redesigned the Air Distribution box so that it better serves a narrow trailer that needs strong air flow and circulation front and rear not dumping out the bottome or out the sides. This might work in a wide body MH or 5th wheel with slides but not in my my 1976 31' Sovereign. I took the Air Distribution cover off and completely lined the inside with the silver insulation and the silver duct tale. I covered over the bottom dump vents and sealed the 2 small channels that directed air to the front vent. Now I had a better insulated quiter air bx with 3 air vents. I did not have to worry about the rounded ceiling and the flat air box cover not fitting since I had made a "Ceiling Gender Mender / curved to flat" attachment when I installed the old Carrier years back. So the air box fit tight up again the ceiling with no air leaks at the edges or out the front or bottom vents. To vent the cold air to the front I built 2 mini Ducts from 1/4" ply wood to fit over the side vents with the old vent doors removed. I used cardboard to make a pattern for the curves in the air box cover and lined the the mini ducts with insulation and attached them to the ceiling and cover. I found AC louver vents, 2 for each side to better direct the air flow. I also built a single mini duct for the back vent so that I could install an actual louver vent to better direct the air to the back as well.

Now I have good strong air flow all the way to the front and back and I am able to maintain 71 degree cool temp even in the heat of the day with temps right at a 100grees.

Looks good, works and I am now cool and happy.

[cwf]

Nice!!!!

[lewster]

Great work-around Don!!!!

[adonh]

I can report that the new Domectic Brisk II 15000 BTU AC is doing a fine job here in the Houston TX area with temps in the 100+ degrees for the past couple of weeks and no relief in site. I certainly believe that the modifications made to the Air Distribution box



that improved the air flow to the front and rear of the trailer has been a success.

[perryg114]

That is a different airbox than mine. Does the air come out on the sides instead of the front and back?

Perry

[adonh]

Originally Posted by perryg114

That is a different airbox than mine. Does the air come out on the sides instead of the front and back?

Perry

The Air openings (that is all they are just an opening with a door that raises and lower. No louvered directional vents) were front and back and on each side. There was also an Air Shower vent at the bottom. But as I mentioned earlier the font air opening had very low air flow and did not cool the front of the trailer. The back and side air openings had the most air flow since they were in direst line with the discharge of cold air. The bottom vent for me served no purpose. So I closed the front air opening and the bottom vent to force all the air out the sides and back. I Then added the mini ducts on each side to direct a strong air flow to the front of the trailer and to the back of the trailer and added louvered directional vents. Dometic I guess makes different airboxs for other model AC's but when I checked with them I was told this is the only airbox that will work on the Dometic Brisk II. This unit is used a lot on new Motor homes and 5th wheels with Ducted Air so the airbox is not an issue.

[SuzyHomemakr]

Hey Don-
Can you give us a spec on those A/C vents? I've tried messing around with my Brisk II vents, but all I was able to accomplish was icing up the blasted thing!

If I had it to do over again, I think that I would have bought two portable A/Cs, and covered up the hole in the roof!

[perryg114]

My air box does not look like that one. I bet the old one like mine flows better. I bet it is a bolt on replacement. Why not take the air box off and see if that fixes the problem. You could make a sheet metal diverter that would push the air out to the sides. You could also cut a hole all the way through the air box and put some vents on the bottom side. It is just a square hole about 6x6in. Experiment then make some cool enclosure Suzy. Ya need one of those big turtle shells and mount it on in place of the air box.

Perry

[KJRitchie]

Do Brisk Airs perform better than Penquins? I prefer low profile AC on Airstreams. Another choice for high profile AC. Is the new Atwood AC. My brother in law has one on his Class C and it cools very well and is much quieter than my Dometic. It even has a remote to change settings. It has a heat pump too.

If they had a low profile unit and a wall thermostat for AC and furnace I would switch.

Kelvin

[adonh]

Originally Posted by SuzyHomemakr

Hey Don-
Can you give us a spec on those A/C vents? I've tried messing around with my Brisk II vents, but all I was able to accomplish was icing up the blasted thing!

If I had it to do over again, I think that I would have bought two portable A/Cs, and covered up the hole in the roof!

You have to make these up as you go along. The first thing is to seal off the front vent in the Air Box along the sides just forward of the side vents so no air goes to the front. Then I lined the Air box with the Reflective insulation and sealed off the bottom vent as well. It leaks air and serves no real purpose. Now you have the 2 side opening and the the rear opening for the cold air flow. I cut pieces of cardboard to fashion a vent to fit the contour of the sides and ceiling using masking tape. From this I made a pattern of the pieces and started cutting my thin plywood to make the the side ducts that now direct the cold air to the front. Once I had this in place I ordered by louvered vents and again working with cardboard to make a pattern for the finished plywood piece to hold the vents in place. Look at the picture and you should able to see what needs to be done. Good luck