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Old 10-08-2002, 09:33 AM   #15
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Lew,
You are correct, the cool side of the switch is inoperable. Thanks for the idea with the foil. There wasn't much slack in the thermostat wire so unless I spliced wire, I really can't add much standoff between the thermostat base and the wall.

One additional thought, make sure the wire hole in the wall is plugged up. A/S put a little caulk in it but not enough to close up the hole. This spring when the furnace was running Patty was in the shower with the vent fan on. It started to get hot in the trailer and I noticed that the vent fan on created enough flow to suck the outdoor cold air in the refrigerator compartment through the hole into the thermostat.

I plugged that up and all is well. As noted earlier the heat from the wall is non existant once it gets cool and I need to use the furnace. The issue only comes up in the summer, and at that point there is no use of the thermostat. Let us know it goes.

Regards,

Jack
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Old 10-08-2002, 09:37 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally posted by RoadKingMoe


That's the one in my 34' Limited.
I priced that one at my dealer and it was big $$. Especially when its only job would be to control the furnace. That's pretty much why I settled on the Hunter. At less than $20 I figured I couldn't make things much worse than the Atwood. Thankfully it ended up to be a good change.

Jack
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Old 10-08-2002, 03:06 PM   #17
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Jack

Mine works exactly as described by RoadKingMoe (Maurice). My Safari also has the heat pump but I see the directions have information about using it with a heat strip. Maybe there are different models of the thermostat for heat pump verses heat tape.

Larry Ruebel
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Old 10-08-2002, 05:02 PM   #18
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There might be a separate hookup for a heat strip and the control knows which you have hooked up, heat pump or strip, by sensing voltage or ground on it.

I forgot to mention the zone button in each "mode" It can control up to 4 zones, allowing different temperature for each. The largest number of ACs or furnaces I could imagine in an RV would be two.
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Old 10-08-2002, 08:54 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally posted by Ruebel
Jack

Maybe there are different models of the thermostat for heat pump verses heat tape.

Larry Ruebel
Bismarck ND
I'm sure there are. I would assume that your thermostat has more than 2 wires coming into it if it is controling furnace and A/C/heat pump. My heat strip and air conditioner are controlled by the knobs on the air conditioner itself. No wireing present in the wall thermostat area for this device. There are ways to wire an airconditioner like mine to the wall thermostat but it involves adding a relay and pulling wire....something that I don't plan to do at this time.

Jack
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Old 12-09-2002, 06:24 PM   #20
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Hi Jack,
Looks like I'm getting into this thread kinda late, but what the hey.
I was curious because we too were dissatisfied with the temp control in our 2000 Safari 27.
After reading the various posts, I popped the cover on the Atwood thermostat and what should I find but a heat anticipator with adjustment from 0.2 to 1.0 amp. The factory setting was 1.0
I'm going to try a 0.5 setting on our trip to Fla. in Feb. before I switch to a Hunter.
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Old 12-09-2002, 06:49 PM   #21
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You are lucky. The model they installed on the 2001 unit was fixed. No adjustment. The manual for the thermostat that was included with the trailer covered the style with the adjustment and the one without.

Jack
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Old 01-12-2003, 03:02 PM   #22
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question

I finally got around to replacing my old thermostat, which would restart the furnace after 15-20 seconds, regardless of temperature setting.
The new one has the anticipator which is set to .7 amp. Now it takes 3.5-4 minutes before the furnace restarts.
My question is, would I have to increase or decrease the anticipator to extend the restart delay? The range is .0.2 to 1.0 amp.
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Old 01-15-2003, 10:38 AM   #23
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I never thought about the anticipator controlling the start up of the furnace. I always considered it as an adjustment to shut down the heat source, based on the concept of shutting down the gas supply to the burner slightly before you have reached set point. The residule heat left in the furnace continues to be extracted by the blower. When your fan shuts down, you should be at set point or slightly above. Most mal adjusted anticipators cause the furnace to run too long leaving you with an area which is higher in temperature than you wanted once the fan shuts down.

Is it possible that your new thermostat has a time delay? Many do to protect the compressors on air conditioners. I wouldn't be surprised to see that that same delay is also placed on the heat side of the operation also. I probably would adjust the anticipator to slightly lengthen the run time. I figure by getting the temp up just a little higher you will stay a little more comfortable prior to the next startup cycle.

Bottom line Peter, does your instruction manual address this? I'm not sure which way to go but you should be able to make some small adjustment and see how it affects the run cycle to get your bearings as to which way to go.

Regards,

Jack
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Old 01-15-2003, 04:21 PM   #24
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Jack, that just shows you what I know: not much!
I thought the gas shut-off and run time of the fan to blow out the heat is controlled by the circuit board of the furnace and the thermostat is just a simple on/off switch.
Regardless, I have increased my 'off' time considerably, by replacing the old thermostat.
Is the 4-5 minute off time what you experience when running your furnace?
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Old 01-15-2003, 04:35 PM   #25
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Heat cycle too long - set the heat anticipator to a slightly lower setting
Heat Cycle too short - set the heat anticipator to a slightly higher setting

See Atwood
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Old 01-16-2003, 08:31 AM   #26
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Peter,
I know the digital thermostat I installed has no timing lockout on the heat cycle. If it shuts off and I manually raise the set point, it will start the cycle within 15 seconds of the change. I assume you have tried the same exercise to determine that you have a long wait time?

As far as the fan shut off time. The shut off is controlled by the temperature at the heat exchanger. Once the exchanger cools down the fan cycles off. That's why you have an anticipator, its sort of a best guess when to turn off the gas supply. At that point once the blower shuts down you should be at or slightly above set point.

I have found that many thermostats have different tolerances at which they will cycle. My old home digital unit in the heat mode cycled once the temp fell 2 degrees below set point. Shut off was one above. It was completely opposite when set to cooling. Two degrees above cycled the start of the compressor, one below shut down. I hated that unit and replaced it with a higher level model. The new one cycles tight enough that the temperature reading stays almost level.

The Hunter unit I put in the Safari is pretty tight on its cycle. It starts the heat cycle once we hit one degree below set point and the gas cut off is a degree above. Its interesting to see that there ususally is enough heat left in the exchanger to almost hit the next degree threshold. I can change the anticipator to adjust for this. In the Hunter its an electronic adjustment rather than turning a screw as in the spring type thermostats.

Jack
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Old 10-16-2003, 10:47 AM   #27
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Duo-Therm anyone?

Has anyone replaced the thermostat on the DuoTherm furnaces? Mine has two wires going into the mechanical thermostat.

I saw a Rite Temp model at Home Depot. It said it would work for 24volt furnaces. Ummmm.....maybe I'll just hit Wal-Mart and look for the Hunter model.
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Old 12-28-2009, 04:20 PM   #28
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thanks jcanavera! I also just purchased a Hunter "Just Right" thermostat model 42995B at Walmart for $20. hooked it up today and works perfect!
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