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Old 11-07-2018, 12:48 PM   #21
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Best Idea

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Originally Posted by crispyboy View Post
What about a standard 110 v dehumidifier or a free standing ac unit? Have the condensate drain dump into shower and let the grey water valve open to drain on the ground. May want to have someone check it 2x per month.
Getting a stand alone Dehumidifier is the least expensive solution. I did this in our seasonal home in Fl during the summer. Just left it in the shower. I used to set he AC between 85 and 90 and let the Dehumidifier run when it wants to. Higher temps hold more moisture so running an AC is lowering the temp so the air hold less. The comparison analogy is Florida and Arizona.
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Old 11-07-2018, 01:32 PM   #22
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Buy this. Works famously highly recommend.

Davis Instruments Air-Dryr 1000 Dryer
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0014TMXVA..._z2Z4Bb7NB6T3N
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Old 11-07-2018, 07:01 PM   #23
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A portable dehumidifier is not very efficient. In other words, they create a lot of heat and use a lot of energy compared to the amount of moisture they remove. But they run off a humidistat, and therefore only run when needed based on humidity levels. The heat generated is usually kept inside, and as someone posted earlier, thats about 1000 BTU per pound of water.

An A/C system typically uses about 1/4 of its energy to remove moisture and 3/4 to cool the air. Waste heat is typically discharged to the exterior. Dehumidification only occurs when the A/C is running, and it usually only runs to control temperature (based on a thermostat, not a humidistat). More run time gives more moisture removal. Short run times mean little moisture removal/control. So you can easily get situations where temperature is well controlled but humidity is not.

Where serious humidity control is necessary, run both. Install a dehumidifier to control humidity. It will run as needed to do that. Then set the A/C to 80-85F or so so things don't overheat. Whenever the A/C runs, you will get a little extra moisture control as a bonus. When the dehumidifier runs, it will generate some heat that may cause the A/C to run, which will control heat and possibly remove some moisture. Good moisture and temperature control.

Just don't run the A/C with the fan in the "ON" position without a dehumidifier in place, and don't leave any windows or vents open or you just make the power company very happy.
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Old 11-07-2018, 07:07 PM   #24
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Assuming you have 30-amp service, it would also be useful to remember the 30-amp pie. If you run both the dehumidifier and the air conditioner at the same time, you're likely to draw enough power to pop a breaker or two inside your trailer and /or outside at the shore power connection. Be thoughtful and careful about this.
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Old 11-07-2018, 08:15 PM   #25
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Dehumidify

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Originally Posted by crispyboy View Post
What about a standard 110 v dehumidifier or a free standing ac unit? Have the condensate drain dump into shower and let the grey water valve open to drain on the ground. May want to have someone check it 2x per month.
I have been using this method for five years with no problems. Bought an inexpensive dehumidifier, drilled an outlet drain in the pan, stuck it in the shower and cracked the grey water valve open slightly. Plus I run it off a separate 120V extension cord and do NOT keep the RV plugged in all summer. Have seen too many RV's in Florida get all their electrical and electronic components fried by lighting strikes. So if the power surge hits, I will only loose the dehumidifier.
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Old 11-07-2018, 08:56 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by suncoasteng View Post
<<snip>> Have seen too many RV's in Florida get all their electrical and electronic components fried by lighting strikes. So if the power surge hits, I will only loose the dehumidifier.
You are right about the lightning in Florida!
That happen to my trailer 3 years ago, when it struck direct in the park and took out about 20% of the park's electrical system. That's why I have a new Dometic rooftop unit, new programable thermostat, and a new Boondocker converter. Also some bulbs, light fixtures, power cord ends, water heater control board, etc..... All got fried. Cost about $1,000 for parts. I did the labor.

If I do leave the trailer plugged in, I'll have the energy management system for sure.

I appreciate everyone's responses and advice.
Thank you!
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Old 07-16-2019, 03:03 AM   #27
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Thanks for the cedar tip

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Originally Posted by Jekerrville View Post
High technology.

Ponder this. Purchase a large bag of cedar shavings. Place on a big trash bag in the AS.

With a long blade knife, stab into the cedar shavings bag about 20 openings so to maximize surface area exposed to the inside air of the cabin.

Close off all vents and seal all windows. Include all vents over cook surfaces and openings around access doors and ports for power, sewer or fresh water.

At this point the trailer should be ready to be locked up.

There are no bugs that will tackle cedar shavings. This includes ants, silver fish, roaches and MOLD.

The cedar will evacuate many times its volume of humidity and bonds it to its surface. The cedar oil in the chips have an affinity for free vapor water.

When you return to your trailer, open up and air out to a dry, pleasant, no stale oder vehicle. Sack up the cedar chip bag and discard.

Under a big oak tree, in shade and not direct sun, I donít believe the interior temp will be above ambient by a degree or two.

Nothing to check, dump out drain or plug in.

Works at the ranching operations on the gulf coast.

But, each to his own.

All the best.
Great idea! Thanks so much.
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