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Old 08-28-2007, 09:03 PM   #15
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OK, as promised, here are some pictures of the through-floor brass lp fitting . . .
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Old 08-28-2007, 09:13 PM   #16
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Thanks Spiffy, a picture is worth a thousand words. Can anybody step me through the correct process to bench test one of these? I want to make sure I'm not doing anything wrong or dangerous. I know the pinout and where the +12V and -12V and thermostate pins are. I assume you hook the + & - power up and then the part I'm not clear on is what to apply to the thermostat pin. Is it +12V there to start the whole process?
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Old 08-28-2007, 10:40 PM   #17
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THe black hose looks like a hydraulic hose?
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Old 08-29-2007, 12:28 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wacnstac
Thanks Spiffy, a picture is worth a thousand words. Can anybody step me through the correct process to bench test one of these? I want to make sure I'm not doing anything wrong or dangerous. I know the pinout and where the +12V and -12V and thermostate pins are. I assume you hook the + & - power up and then the part I'm not clear on is what to apply to the thermostat pin. Is it +12V there to start the whole process?
Bench testing an LP furnace goes something like this ( I do at least a dozen every time it gets cold in FL! )

1. there should be a little rocker switch on the face of the furnace....be sure it is in the 'on' position
2. connect the 12VDC negative to the - terminal of a battery
3. connect the 12VDC positive to the + terminal of the battery
4. connect the LP input to a 20# LP tank (or equivalent)
5. open the valve on the tank
6. connect the two blue thermostat wires together

The blower should come on at this point and after an approx. 20 second purge cycle............................................. .............................

................................FIRE IN THE HOLE!!!!!

Allow the unit to heat for approx 1 minute. It will smoke and smell as it is burning off the coatings from the manufacturing process.

Now disconnect the 2 blue thermostat wires. The LP should flame out since the gas valve should now be closed, but the blower will continue for a minute or two to again purge the hot air from the plenum. This action simulates a complete heating cycle. When you disconnect the t/stat wires, it is the same as the thermostat on the wall reaching the set temperature.

If all goes as above......you're good to go for install!!!!
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Old 08-29-2007, 06:27 AM   #19
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Ok, now what do you mean by connecting the two blue termostat wires? As far as I can see there is only one thermostat wire going into the unit.
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Old 08-29-2007, 07:43 AM   #20
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lew,
a novice question here......

i thought that copper was not to be used for flamible gas as it easily fatigues and any gas leak is "not-a-good-thing'.

thanks,
richinny
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Old 08-29-2007, 08:10 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by thecatsandi
THe black hose looks like a hydraulic hose?
The hose in the picture is primarily used for liquid applications, and could be considered overkill here. However, it is not affected by road vibration or heat like the rubber lp hose you might be use to. Additionally, I use it because I like the hose-to-fitting connections over the normal clamp stuff. I didn't need much of it, so the extra cost wasn't as significant as you might assume.


Quote:
Originally Posted by richinny
lew,
a novice question here......

i thought that copper was not to be used for flamible gas as it easily fatigues and any gas leak is "not-a-good-thing'.

thanks,
richinny
The copper in my picture is not the kind of copper you go buy at Lowes or Home Depot: it is a much higher grade and is thicker (and costs way more ). Go down to your local Airstream dealer, look down under a new unit, and see what was used . . .

Though no one mentioned it, notice that the use of the through-floor brass fitting eliminates the ability for mice to enter inside?
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Old 08-29-2007, 08:56 AM   #22
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Attempting to get this thread back on topic..... I am reading into previous posts that to bench test a furnace without a thermostat that I just jumper the +12v and the thermostat pins together at the harness connector to the furnace to fire the thing up????
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Old 08-29-2007, 11:47 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wacnstac
Attempting to get this thread back on topic..... I am reading into previous posts that to bench test a furnace without a thermostat that I just jumper the +12v and the thermostat pins together at the harness connector to the furnace to fire the thing up????
When installed in the trailer, your furnace has +12VDC and ground all the time. The other two wires coming from the wiring harness that lead to the igniter board should be blue with both going to the t/stat. These are effectively the on/off switch for the furnace.

The electronics in the igniter board take care of the furnace functions like time delays, purging cycles, flame sense, etc. The only function of the t/stat is to tell the furnace when to turn on/off by the settings you choose.

When all of the connections are made, jumping the two t/stat wires will fire up the unit.
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Old 08-29-2007, 11:53 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by richinny
lew,
a novice question here......

i thought that copper was not to be used for flamible gas as it easily fatigues and any gas leak is "not-a-good-thing'.

thanks,
richinny
richinny,

Copper is used all the time in RVs, but it is a different grade than what you get for use in water systems at the big box stores. Go to a plumbing supply store and ask for LP-spec. copper tubing.

Plus, it should not be left hanging to allow it to vibrate.....clamp it every 12-16" so it is very secure.
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Old 08-29-2007, 12:07 PM   #25
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thanks for the copper answers! i love learning here :-)

nice miceproofing!
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Old 08-29-2007, 12:31 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lewster
When installed in the trailer, your furnace has +12VDC and ground all the time. The other two wires coming from the wiring harness that lead to the igniter board should be blue with both going to the t/stat. These are effectively the on/off switch for the furnace.

The electronics in the igniter board take care of the furnace functions like time delays, purging cycles, flame sense, etc. The only function of the t/stat is to tell the furnace when to turn on/off by the settings you choose.

When all of the connections are made, jumping the two t/stat wires will fire up the unit.
My furnace only three wires in, +12, -12, and thermostat.
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Old 08-29-2007, 05:44 PM   #27
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Well I overcame my fears of another one blowing up and bench tested it out in the driveway today. Works like a charm. The flame is so nice and blue and seems to go up a lot higher in the chamber than the old NT30MA. Now we'll see if we can get her installed in the trailer.
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Old 08-29-2007, 07:40 PM   #28
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Great!!!

Hope everything goes smoothly.

Vaughan
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