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Old 12-11-2017, 12:08 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by toastie View Post
Vent my ac out of the back license plate, also add a big 12v fan for those very hot day. There was no way I was going to cut a big hole out the side and roof top ac was not even an option.

see post 799, 786 and 532
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f36/...-38289-58.html

toastie
Interesting concept. The typical questions. How has it worked thus far? What would you do differently? What is the noise level? Thanks, Bubba
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Old 12-11-2017, 06:35 PM   #16
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I started reading the posts. Sounds like a great system. How has it been working since you installed it? Anything you would do differently? I spent some time at Deerfield Academy a few years back. And why do you need AC up there? I like to have frozen to death. Thanks for the info. Bubba
Bubba,

You were in Deerfield at the wrong time of year! It can get warm up here and VERY humid.

I'm happy with our install as is and would only add a rain gutter over the exhaust fans in the former battery access door. That said, I've only had to run it full blast once -- in Southern California. In full sun, mid 90's, the unit was only able to reduce the interior temperature by 21 degrees. We didn't have an awning at the time, which significantly added to the heat load. In temps like that, we have no trouble reaching set point with the awning in use.

We have a 26' Overlander and have used multiple layers of Prodex, being very careful to maintain air gaps between each layer. Our awning is 16' and is extra wide so that we get great shade from it. As critical to your choice of AC is the insulation decision you make and the resultant heat load.

Our AC is a 12000 btu unit that runs directly into the forward area of the trailer. We use a small fan to distribute cool air through the trailer, if necessary. If I lived in Texas, I'd be looking for 15000 btu if possible. I hear that it gets a little warm down there in the summer.
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Old 12-12-2017, 12:45 PM   #17
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Here is a cool cat installation manual.

Andy
Attached Files
File Type: pdf duo therm cool cat.pdf (577.7 KB, 35 views)
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Old 12-12-2017, 03:15 PM   #18
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Here is a cool cat installation manual.

Andy
Thanks Andy. This helps a lot. I may end up going to a dealership and measuring the Decibel level. Thanks again for your help. Bubba
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Old 12-12-2017, 03:18 PM   #19
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I would say the noise level is similar to a roof top ac. It is hard to tell in an Alto as everything is a hard surface. And there isnt much fabric. If you had room to put an inch of sound deadening around it I think it might help.
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Old 12-13-2017, 08:00 PM   #20
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Being that the noise level of the Cool Cat and the traditional roof top unit are similar, the Mini Split should be the preferred choice. I have been doing some reading on people's installations, due to variations in humidity, any unit will condensate on the inside. Saw a video of a guy with a Cool Cat type installation battling condensation leaks ruining his wooden walls. He suggested a drip pan and a drain as a solution. May as well have a hole in the bottom for a Mini Split if it is true that they all will create condensation at some point.
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Old 12-14-2017, 07:17 AM   #21
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Being that the noise level of the Cool Cat and the traditional roof top unit are similar, the Mini Split should be the preferred choice. I have been doing some reading on people's installations, due to variations in humidity, any unit will condensate on the inside. Saw a video of a guy with a Cool Cat type installation battling condensation leaks ruining his wooden walls. He suggested a drip pan and a drain as a solution. May as well have a hole in the bottom for a Mini Split if it is true that they all will create condensation at some point.
David, I agree that the mini split makes more sense due to the efficiency and decibel level. I like the idea Protagonist had on the hinged panels for the bottom intake and the side exhaust. I want to try and keep the bottom air intake space outward of the main frame member and within the outrigger spacing. Otherwise Ill be encroaching on one of the gray water tanks in the belly pan. I also thought about using 65CV and Toasties approach with a fan for forced air for the intake. I think I would have to figure out a way to wire the fan to the condenser fan motor so they would both operate together when the condenser kicks on. I plan on mock ups and building this thing in my head before tearing into the belly pan. Why dont we install one in yours before we do mine? Thanks for the suggestions. Bubba
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Old 12-14-2017, 07:55 AM   #22
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Quiet

In my opinion, the single biggest advantage of the mini split is the very low decibel output. I have had people ask me to turn it on so they can hear it run and I told them "it is already on":-)
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Old 12-14-2017, 08:23 AM   #23
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In my opinion, the single biggest advantage of the mini split is the very low decibel output. I have had people ask me to turn it on so they can hear it run and I told them "it is already on":-)
Chris, you think the concept were looking at will work? Thanks, Bubba
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Old 12-14-2017, 09:18 AM   #24
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Not sure

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Chris, you think the concept were looking at will work? Thanks, Bubba
Mine have always been mounted on the tongue so I am not sure how well it will work in an enclosure. Presumably as long as you provide the required clearance and airflow it should work. My initial concern was that these units are meant to be stationary rather than bouncing down the highway but so far I have seen no adverse effects due to vibration/acceleration. Mine have been to the Grand Canyon and back and still function as intended.
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Old 12-20-2017, 07:55 PM   #25
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I guess I'm showing my age here, but here goes...

The first thread I remember about mini-splits was from BoatDoc -- he may be a great resource for determining longevity.
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Old 12-20-2017, 08:33 PM   #26
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I guess I'm showing my age here, but here goes...

The first thread I remember about mini-splits was from BoatDoc -- he may be a great resource for determining longevity.
Thanks for the tip. Ive started reading his threads. I may be grasping at straws trying to conceal a mini split condenser, but until an HVAC engineer tells me im too far out in left field, Ill keep researching. Ive thought about flexible hydraulic hoses for the high and low pressure lines at the condenser so it can be slid to the outside for more air circulation. But someone told me the mini split pressure is too high. Well see. Thanks again for the lead. Happy Holidays. Bubba
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Old 12-21-2017, 08:04 AM   #27
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You will have to use hoses and fitting that are rated for Freon. Freon molecules are much smaller then hydraulic and a hose rated for hydraulic fluid will leak with Freon. Hoses and fittings rated for Freon are readily available
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Old 12-21-2017, 09:31 AM   #28
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You will have to use hoses and fitting that are rated for Freon. Freon molecules are much smaller then hydraulic and a hose rated for hydraulic fluid will leak with Freon. Hoses and fittings rated for Freon are readily available
Thanks for the information. My thoughts were to create a flexible hydraulic connector hose loop like on the bucket of a John Deere tractor for movement. When the condenser is slid to the outer edge of the shell on tracks, the hose loop would give slack for condenser movement while the copper lines remain stable. Are the freon hoses youre referring to used on aircraft? Thanks again and Happy Holidays. Bubba
(Were still planning on passing thru Denver on the way to Estes Park in May.)
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