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slowmover · 01-31-2012, 03:20 PM

Nice thread. Well done, and thank you for the time spent. Bookmarked.

Steve Bryant · 01-31-2012, 10:28 PM

REDNAX,
Thank you sir! I was looking at your thread about selling your Silver Streak. Do you currently have a trailer now?

slowmover · 02-01-2012, 07:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Steve Bryant

REDNAX,
Thank you sir! I was looking at your thread about selling your Silver Streak. Do you currently have a trailer now?

Picked up a '76 SS 32' recently to use for work. Hope to have it sold and gone in a few months as I do want a 32' - '35' rear bedroom config'd SS, Streamline (very rare) or Avion.

nickcrowhurst · 02-01-2012, 08:44 AM

I cured the squeaking bushes with a little oil, as documented here, and in particular at post 11:

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f427...ace-60957.html

Nick.

Steve Bryant · 02-01-2012, 04:33 PM

Nick, this is good information. What kind of oil did you use? 3 in 1 makes a 20 weight viscosity electric motor oil (blue & white can) that I've used in the past on larger motors with oiler cups for the bushings. The fact that these motors have felts to retain the oil is good to know!

Thanks,

Steve

nickcrowhurst · 02-02-2012, 02:03 AM

Steve, I just used the diesel 15W-40 CI spec that I use in my Ram Truck. I reckoned it would handle heat, and be viscous enough to stick around for a while. I had some standard 3-in-1, but decided it was too thin, and I didn't know if it could handle the heat close to a furnace. Great thread, BTW.
Nick.

0557 · 02-08-2013, 12:07 AM

Nick,
I'll attempting to do the motor re-oil soon. I have 2
NT30-K's,

nickcrowhurst · 02-08-2013, 05:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 0557

Nick,
I'll attempting to do the motor re-oil soon. I have 2
NT30-K's,

I always enjoy a project that has a great result and costs nothing, but just demands a little care and patience. I hope it goes well for you.
Nick.

0557 · 02-08-2013, 05:06 PM

Okay, the gas line is disconnected and plugged
The wiring harness is disconnected and insulated.
The ducts are disconnected
The two front screws holding the cabinet down on the floor are off.
It feels like there is something attached at the tube ports up front.
I also took out the screw holding the "inerds"
Inside the cabinet too, the chassis will lift and move side to side, but I can't pull it out....yet.
Is there something I'm doing wrong?

Or is it the damn zip dee chair storage floor pinching it?

Rick

0557 · 02-08-2013, 08:46 PM

Any thoughts Steve or Nick

Steve Bryant · 02-08-2013, 10:12 PM

Rick,
At first, I would not attempt to pull just the innards out as the baffle between the front and back of the innards is probably rusted/stuck to the cabinet. If you can wiggle the front of the case up and down and left and right, I'd just try doing that for a few minutes while pulling the cabinet toward me. If it doesn't come loose, take the floor of the Zip Dee chair storage compartment out (you'll see some Phillips head screws inside the storage compartment at the bottom). The carpet tends to hold the furnace cabinet/case in place and the intake and exhaust pipes tend to stick if they haven't been removed in a long time. If you don't have any luck, send me a PM and I'll give you my phone number. Maybe we can talk it over on the phone.

All my best,

Steve

nickcrowhurst · 02-09-2013, 04:56 AM

Rick, you've done everything that I've done before pulling out the furnace. It may be that the weight of the back of the furnace is taken by the intake and exhaust pipes resting on the outlet holes in the skin, rather than on the floor. That is the case in my trailer, and I just get ugly with it and give it a hard pull. It means that when re-installing the furnace, the back has to be awkwardly raised slightly.
Nick.

Steve Bryant · 02-09-2013, 10:49 AM

Nick,
You're right, this is why I made the runners shown in this post http://www.airforums.com/forums/f427...ml#post1093910. They serve two purposes; 1. elevate the furnace to a proper height and 2. align the furnace to the pipes. I currently have the stove and cabinets removed (for the most part) from working on the floor and I will re-route (or replace) the gas lines for both the furnace and the stove for improved clearances, bend locations, etc. (see http://www.airforums.com/forums/f36/...ml#post1232392). The gas lines and appliances are not installed with the greatest of care from the factory!

0557 · 02-09-2013, 10:59 AM

Thanks guys, I'll get back to it later today. Thank you for all the help

0557 · 02-19-2013, 08:00 PM

Success, I pulled both NT30K's out, overhauled the motor on one, (thanks for the inspiration Nick)
And as I was steel brushing the surface rust and cleaning off the first one, I flipped it over to discover a crack, I took a screwed driver and lightly poked at it, and an area about an inch
Wide by 1/4 crumbled. So I salvaged somebody the parts and tossed the heat exchanger.

The other one had very little use over the years and is a lot cleaner, no signs of perforation, and works fine, no motor squeal. Putting it back in tomorrow.

Steve Bryant · 02-19-2013, 08:43 PM

0557,
I'm glad that we were able to help you out! However, I'm much more pleased that you found the defective heat exchanger. Where did you get a replacement heat exchanger?

Steve

0557 · 02-19-2013, 09:00 PM

I searched EBay and found one for $125.
I'm better off buying another heater from Palomino, I don't need it right now.
But I have 2, the other one is fine after a good
cleaning, mostly dauber nest residue, and a few speckles of loose rust. My theory is the nests are built with wasp saliva mixed with mud, and that is what starts the corrosion process inside chamber combined with water leaks around the unit.
I painted the box with the same hammered textured paint that you used. Looks good.
I can get by with one heater in Ga, , the PO had the other one installed (from the factory) in the bedroom area for Canadian weather I guess.

0557 · 02-25-2013, 07:35 PM

I fired up the restored NT30k tonight and other than some cabinet paint off-gassing from the heat everything seems to be working fine, the flame is a even-uniform blue, except the top and the front of the furnace is getting too hot to keep your hand
on. Is that normal? I don't remember it being that hot over the years. No blockages, everything is ducted properly and the exaust ports are clear and blowing. It's the thermostat was on 90, maybe that has something to do with it.

Steve Bryant · 02-25-2013, 09:50 PM

0557,
That's great that everything is working so well. As to whether or not you should be able to hold your hand on the front or top...I don't know the answer to that question. In many ways, that sounds reasonable, but it could be dangerous too. I'd call Suburban's customer service department and get their read on this. This is sort of a subjective measure of the cabinet temperature. Maybe others have some experience in this area.

My furnace paint outgassed for quite a while as is noted in this post http://www.airforums.com/forums/f427...ml#post1088541. The more that I think about the cabinet getting hot to the touch...that might be pretty reasonable with the thermostat set to 90 degrees as it wouldn't be cycling on and off; only on all the time!

Steve