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Old 12-19-2010, 09:14 AM   #21
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Hi, Tim, Thanks for posting back to the thread.

If you check out the manual, pages 6-7, item 13, is this the regulator? If so, is this needed when connecting to the furnace line?

Does the regulator bring the gas pressure down to the same as the other gas appliances (water heater, oven, cooktop, refrigerator, furnace, probably forgetting something)?

Thanks again,
Anne
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Old 12-19-2010, 09:16 AM   #22
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Roy, ignore my pp above. I got curious and took a look at my Mr. Buddy and wa la I see the quick disconnect fitting for a regulated line. With the right hose this really does make for a great emer. heater (with proper set up). Thanks.
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Old 12-19-2010, 09:19 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tkasten View Post
Anne,

My son uses a Mr. Buddy in his hunting trailer all the time. He does have the 12' hose exit the trailer through a hole in the wall out to a 20lb. propane tank outside. I don't know anything about using the furnace line to hook up to the Mr. Buddy. The furnace line has a regulatory already.
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Originally Posted by 64airstream View Post
We use the large Mr. Buddy (18,000 btu) with the 12 ft quick disconnect hose. Our trailer has 20# tanks. The large unit has a small blower that operates on 110V AC or batteries (if you're boondocking). I plumbed the hose directly to the furnace propane with a shut off valve (our furnace has been out for repairs forever). With our layout, the 12 ft hose permits the Buddy to sit on the kitchen counter or on the floor. We follow the same precautions, you mentioned with the addition of a CO detector (also AC or battery). I've used a small Coleman a couple of times in the fall or spring, just to take the chill off in the morning. I tested the big Buddy in the driveway last winter (on a cold day - no wind) and brought the temperature from 0 F to about 60 F in two hours. Probably would have gotten up higher, but I ran out of time for the experiment.

Roy
Hi, Roy,
The quoted post above and the next one with the photo are very helpful! I think I'm closing in on it. Thanks so much for posting.

Yes, we have detectors for CO, for propane, for smoke and fire. I have precious cargo. We use these all year round, any time, even when parked for a while. It's probably over-caution, but things happen to someone every day.

Again, thanks!
Anne
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Old 12-19-2010, 09:21 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tkasten View Post
Roy, ignore my pp above. I got curious and took a look at my Mr. Buddy and wa la I see the quick disconnect fitting for a regulated line. With the right hose this really does make for a great emer. heater (with proper set up). Thanks.
Hey, Tim, if you get a minute, could you point me to the quick disconnect fitting on pages 6-7 of the manual? I'm not seeing it.

Thanks,
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Old 12-19-2010, 09:25 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 64airstream View Post
Found a photo from initial renovation that might help. The hose simply connects to the flared fitting on the left and remains coiled while in transit.

Roy
Roy, my furnace gas line set-up looks just like yours. I see the fitting on the left.

If I opened up the Buddy Portable, would I remove the regulator and connect a hose to that fitting, or is there a separate line reserved for the on-board regulated gas line with an extension hose?

Anne
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Old 12-19-2010, 10:26 AM   #26
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Anne, I just realized that I have a "Big Buddy" Mr. Buddy heater and the quick disconnect is on the left side behind the swivel up regulator. I guess that is not an option on the reg. Mr. Buddy. Sorry.
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Old 12-19-2010, 02:41 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tkasten View Post
Anne, I just realized that I have a "Big Buddy" Mr. Buddy heater and the quick disconnect is on the left side behind the swivel up regulator. I guess that is not an option on the reg. Mr. Buddy. Sorry.
Tim,
It's OK. I am going to give some thought to exchanging for the Big Buddy. It would be nice to have more connection options and BTUs for short-term use. I have not hooked up the Portable Buddy yet, as my questions may reveal.

I can imagine other uses in cold weather, such as power outages in ice storms, garage heat, etc., besides boondocking in the Trade Wind.

A ThermX (not vented) was in the Trade Wind when I bought it, but it hasn't worked at all, so I removed it. I've heard it could be possible to have it refurbished, but I like the idea of the vented type. That looks like a more costly option, along with getting the furnace back in. Options are always nice to have.

All precautions considered, I think it would be worth testing out the catalytic heater before diving into a pricey permanent installation.

More rationalization: we decided on a camping winter trip to save on cost for a flight, resort, and all. Otherwise, we have not used the Airstream in winter before. Most years, I winterize it, maybe tinker with some inside projects, and save the big exterior work as well as camping trips for warmer weather. Still, when we start camping in April or May, mornings are sometimes too cool for the oil radiator. And, we don't want to be stuck needing 110v all the time.

OK, enough thinking out loud. Back out to get the water system back together. Oh -- wait -- it's going to be very chilly in there! Our White Christmas has arrived early, and it is supposed to hang around until after we take off for FL.
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Old 12-19-2010, 02:46 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 64airstream View Post
Found a photo from initial renovation that might help. The hose simply connects to the flared fitting on the left and remains coiled while in transit.

Roy
Roy two things wrong with this installation. 1) that shut off valve is for wtare not gas. 2) No shut offs are allowed inside a trailer- code violation.
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Old 12-19-2010, 02:48 PM   #29
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Big Buddy FAQ item

Quote:
Originally Posted by tkasten View Post
Anne, I just realized that I have a "Big Buddy" Mr. Buddy heater and the quick disconnect is on the left side behind the swivel up regulator. I guess that is not an option on the reg. Mr. Buddy. Sorry.
On this web site, I found more details on the Big Buddy quick connector for regulated propane supply:

"Question:
Can I hook my Big Buddy to my regulated propane source in my mobile home, or RV?

Answer:
If your propane source is regulated you can hook it to the unregulated quick coupler connection on the left hand side of the heater using our # F271802 hose and quick coupler connection."
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Old 12-19-2010, 03:33 PM   #30
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Propane valves inline inside

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Roy two things wrong with this installation. 1) that shut off valve is for wtare not gas. 2) No shut offs are allowed inside a trailer- code violation.
Chris,

This item is sold at Camping World:
Mr Heater Corp - Propane/Natural Gas Connector Kit w/ Shutoff Valve - Propane Accessories - Camping World

Would it have to be installed below the belly pan, and an extension hose connected, also, at that exterior location?

All of my appliances have shut-off valves in-line, inside. They do not look like this kit, but like the valve with the red handle, only all brass (?), and I have to say, I have not seen one installed anywhere that looks like the one with two yellow grippers, not that I see lots of gas valve installations. Outside my house, the gas to our gas fire starter looks like a water shut-off, the third picture, with a yellow handle.

Now I am wondering if I should change anything about how the valves are installed inside. It seems like a safety issue, to have a ready shut-off near an appliance in case a grease fire occurs, or some other kind of accident with the appliance itself, to get the gas off inside and then hurry outside to shut off at the tanks, or just run like h#&& while dialing 911.

I don't want to be a cranky FUDder. I just want to be safe.
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Old 12-19-2010, 03:56 PM   #31
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Anne what is existing can stay. they are `grandfathered`in. However for any new installations the shut off valves need to be outside the trailer below the belly pan. Flexible hoses are also not allowed inside the trailer. That kit at camping world is designed for hooking up an external stove or BBQ. I don`t think you can do what you want and meet code. Any appliance must have a copper supply line with a flair nut fitting and the appliance must be securely mounted to the trailer. It is your trailer but I wouldn`t do what you are trying to accomplish. Just mount a cat heater permanently and run copper line to it. Then there is no chance the heater will get knocked over or the flexible line can accidently get cut or pulled loose.
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Old 12-20-2010, 02:43 PM   #32
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Quote:
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Anne what is existing can stay. they are `grandfathered`in. However for any new installations the shut off valves need to be outside the trailer below the belly pan. Flexible hoses are also not allowed inside the trailer. That kit at camping world is designed for hooking up an external stove or BBQ. I don`t think you can do what you want and meet code. Any appliance must have a copper supply line with a flair nut fitting and the appliance must be securely mounted to the trailer. It is your trailer but I wouldn`t do what you are trying to accomplish. Just mount a cat heater permanently and run copper line to it. Then there is no chance the heater will get knocked over or the flexible line can accidently get cut or pulled loose.
Thanks, Chris.

I found these standards on the RVIA web site. Do you know if this page is complete?

When you get a chance, could you send me a link to the codes and regulations on RV construction, plumbing, electrical, hvac, running gear, etc.? I might as well do it all right or park it in the back yard.

Thanks,
Anne
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Old 12-20-2010, 03:05 PM   #33
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Anne here is a link to a site to purchase a copy of the code book
thehttp://openlibrary.org/books/OL13248187M/ANSI_A119.2_Nfpa_1192_Standard_on_Recreational_Veh icles
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Old 12-20-2010, 04:05 PM   #34
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I am among the forum's non-believers in catalytic heaters. If you don't have a furnace, get one. If your furnace runs down the battery, get more/bigger/newer batteries.
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Old 12-20-2010, 05:37 PM   #35
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I am among the forum's non-believers in catalytic heaters. If you don't have a furnace, get one. If your furnace runs down the battery, get more/bigger/newer batteries.
Thanks for your message, Jammer.
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Old 12-20-2010, 06:04 PM   #36
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I am among the forum's non-believers in catalytic heaters. If you don't have a furnace, get one. If your furnace runs down the battery, get more/bigger/newer batteries.

....said the man with the new 30 foot classic.
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Old 12-20-2010, 06:16 PM   #37
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....said the man with the new 30 foot classic.
Look, this keeps coming up and they're not safe. Here we are in this thread engaging in an engineering exercise involving unvented gas heaters, portable propane hoses, quick connectors, etc. I don't think it's a good idea to dispense such advice and especially not to people whose skill and background and sensitivity to safety issues we can only guess at.

And here we are splitting hairs over the code approval of the shutoff valves when the RVIA code doesn't even allow portable propane hose inside a trailer. Or unvented heaters.
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Old 12-20-2010, 06:36 PM   #38
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Its your opinion that they're unsafe. I think the fact that these things have been manufactured, marketed, sold, installed and used for this very purpose for decades, up to and including the present day, indicates otherwise.


I can't believe the code doesn't allow for cat heaters. Shutoffs and valves...sure.

Headline in my local paper today: "Family lucky to be alive; CO fills home, father pulls wife, son, outside".
-source of CO: gas boiler. Should we ban those, and force everyone to use electric heat?
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Old 12-20-2010, 06:43 PM   #39
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This thread is getting interesting. Don't go too fast it will be a few minutes before the popcorn is done.
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Old 12-20-2010, 06:47 PM   #40
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And here we are splitting hairs over the code approval of the shutoff valves when the RVIA code doesn't even allow portable propane hose inside a trailer. Or unvented heaters.[/QUOTE]
I think I said that in an earlier post. No shut offs inside and no portable or flexible hoses.
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