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Old 08-29-2007, 12:14 PM   #1
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Carrier V AC Issue

Has anyone experienced this? I have a fairly new Carrier unit that was working fine. Now it seems to short cycle. The compressor kicks on but only stays on for less than 5 min and shuts off. It will cycle on and off but only stays on for a very short period of time. When it is on, the air is plenty cold.

I did have an electrical problem that I believe may have caused this problem. The shore power cable was shot and had to be replaced, I know this because we were getting a hot skin on the trailer. I have replaced the cable with the correct guage wire and have had no other issues other than this current problem with the AC.

Anyone have any thoughts on this?
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Old 08-29-2007, 01:30 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lhall
Has anyone experienced this? I have a fairly new Carrier unit that was working fine. Now it seems to short cycle. The compressor kicks on but only stays on for less than 5 min and shuts off. It will cycle on and off but only stays on for a very short period of time. When it is on, the air is plenty cold.

I did have an electrical problem that I believe may have caused this problem. The shore power cable was shot and had to be replaced, I know this because we were getting a hot skin on the trailer. I have replaced the cable with the correct guage wire and have had no other issues other than this current problem with the AC.

Anyone have any thoughts on this?
Check the position of the thermocouple probe.

If it's near the path of the cold air, it will cause the short cycle problem.

Andy
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Old 08-29-2007, 01:49 PM   #3
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Thank you, I removed the interior cover and the probe seems to be in the correct position. This unit is just a year old and was installed by the PO. I fear that there may have been a low voltage issue due to the fact the shore power cable was bad. The fan runs perfectly. If in fact this is caused by low voltage, what component is the likely culprit? I can replace circuit boards and capacitors but would not have a clue as to the compressor or otherwise.

Thanks again!
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Old 08-29-2007, 03:17 PM   #4
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No cost, minimal effort check

Your air conditioner most likely has its own circuit breaker. I would start by loosening, then tightening the screw on the breaker which holds the hotwire to the AC. In fact, check all of the circuit breakers while you're there. Your low voltage situation may have overheated the connection point, and bummed the connection. Your AC might still be suffering a low voltage situation due to resistance in a possibly bad connection.

After that, I would suspect the compressor's overtemp protection. Ask if you want details on that.

Tom
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Old 08-29-2007, 03:44 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TomW
Your air conditioner most likely has its own circuit breaker. I would start by loosening, then tightening the screw on the breaker which holds the hotwire to the AC. In fact, check all of the circuit breakers while you're there. Your low voltage situation may have overheated the connection point, and bummed the connection. Your AC might still be suffering a low voltage situation due to resistance in a possibly bad connection.

After that, I would suspect the compressor's overtemp protection. Ask if you want details on that.

Tom
Tom,

Thanks for the tips. Perhaps I can give you a bit more detail, and yes I would like to know about the compressor overtemp.

For starters, I had the trailer plugged into a 20 Amp circuit at home, the unit ran fine and for about 2 hours. I unplugged the trailer and a few hours later, plugged it back in and it would run and kick the breaker on my house. I now know that I need a 30AMP circuit. (Newbie here).

I took it out on the first trip, we were in wet and rainy conditions at the campground. We noticed that we were getting a small shock from the trailer, not full voltage but a tingle. I tried the AC on the 30 AMP and it came on, compressor started and ran for about 2 min and shut down. It kept cycling on and off like that, all the while the fan is running properly. Since the temp was in the 60s I just assumed that it was not warm enough for the AC to stay on very long.

When we got back home I needed to investigate the hot skin and found that our shore power cable was completely toast. I rewired the breaker box and replaced the power cable. I removed both breakers from the box and re-installed them. Everything else seems to work just fine, and the AC has never tripped one of the breakers in the trailer.

I went out this past weekend and we were in warmer weather so I decided to try the AC again. Same thing although the compressor seemed to run longer at first power up but fell into the same 1-2 min on and then off.

I am hoping I can figure this out without resorting to a RV dealer.
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Old 08-30-2007, 04:28 AM   #6
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Follow Inland Andy's path first - the thermostat. Does the AC still cycle even when the knob is turned to "max cold"? While your control thermocouple may be in the right position, there might be another thermostat issue.

The overtemp sensor is located on the top of the compressor, and is mounted in such a way that it can sense the compressor's temperature. Gain access to it, but don't disconnect it. Run the air conditioner until it cycles off in the way you thing is too early. Then measure the voltage from each of the sensor's pins to ground. If the sensor has kicked out, 120 vac will be measured at one pin, but not at the other.

If the compressor is too hot to touch, then your AC's problem is most likely not the sensor. If the compressor is cool enough to touch, make plans to replace the sensor.

It would be great if you had access to an inductive ammeter to get some electrical current readings on your unit.

Tom
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Old 08-30-2007, 07:44 AM   #7
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Thanks

I will give those suggestions a try. I do have a multimeter and a clamp on Ammeter. I was a techie in a past life, still have some of the tools.
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Old 08-30-2007, 08:14 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TomW
Follow Inland Andy's path first - the thermostat. Does the AC still cycle even when the knob is turned to "max cold"? While your control thermocouple may be in the right position, there might be another thermostat issue.

The overtemp sensor is located on the top of the compressor, and is mounted in such a way that it can sense the compressor's temperature. Gain access to it, but don't disconnect it. Run the air conditioner until it cycles off in the way you thing is too early. Then measure the voltage from each of the sensor's pins to ground. If the sensor has kicked out, 120 vac will be measured at one pin, but not at the other.

If the compressor is too hot to touch, then your AC's problem is most likely not the sensor. If the compressor is cool enough to touch, make plans to replace the sensor.

It would be great if you had access to an inductive ammeter to get some electrical current readings on your unit.

Tom
Tom,

I keep my AS in a storage facility, there is not a hurry for information, I will have to bring the trailer home when I get the chance and try the things you have suggested. When you have time to list some other checks I will give them a try when I am able to bring it home and run those tests.

I really appreciate all of your help this far. I will keep you posted as I proceed.

Thanks agiain,
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Old 08-30-2007, 02:31 PM   #9
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Any paperwork?

Quote:
Originally Posted by lhall
...This unit is just a year old and was installed by the PO. ...
Louis,

If you got literature from the PO, did it include a schematic of the AC? I'm wondering if modern-day RV air conditioners have a high-pressure cutoff switch. Post a scan of the schematic if you have it.

Tom
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Old 08-30-2007, 02:44 PM   #10
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Rivet Schematic

Quote:
Originally Posted by TomW
Louis,

If you got literature from the PO, did it include a schematic of the AC? I'm wondering if modern-day RV air conditioners have a high-pressure cutoff switch. Post a scan of the schematic if you have it.

Tom
I jerked this page out of the owner’s manual pdf on Carrier’s website.

Vaughan
Attached Files
File Type: pdf AirV_Non-Ducted_Schematic.pdf (75.5 KB, 86 views)
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Old 08-30-2007, 03:05 PM   #11
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Thanks Vaughan,

I did not see a high-pressure cutoff.

Tom
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Old 08-30-2007, 03:56 PM   #12
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Manual

Quote:
Originally Posted by TomW
Louis,

If you got literature from the PO, did it include a schematic of the AC? I'm wondering if modern-day RV air conditioners have a high-pressure cutoff switch. Post a scan of the schematic if you have it.

Tom
Of course he did not include the manual, what fun would that be

I did however take a look at the manual on the Carrier Website and will download it and make a copy to keep in the trailer.
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Old 08-30-2007, 04:04 PM   #13
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I jerked this page out of the owner’s manual pdf on Carrier’s website.

Vaughan
Thanks Vaughan.
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Old 08-30-2007, 05:33 PM   #14
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Rivet Carrier V

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Originally Posted by lhall
Thanks Vaughan.
You are very welcome. You too, Tom, thanks for the Karma. I have been watching all the AC threads, especially the Carrier ones. I will be buying a High Capacity Carrier Heat Pump very soon, so I’m very interested.

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Old 08-30-2007, 06:03 PM   #15
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I've got the time, but only two options

Quote:
Originally Posted by lhall
...all the while the fan is running properly. ...
Quote:
... When you have time to list some other checks I will give them a try ...
There appears to be two electrical devices between power and your air conditioner's (AC) compressor: The thermostat, and the OLP (OverLoad Protector). One of them is causing your problem.

A malfunctioning thermostat will be the cheaper of the two to remedy. But the parts will not be inexpensive.

A malfunctioning OLP will be a reasonable parts charge, but I kind of doubt it went bad since it is a very simple device.

With no first-hand observance of your situation, i.e. me being there and laying hands upon the Carrier V, I suspect that your compressor is overheating and the OLP is protecting it from burnout.

Overheating can be caused by low freon, a plugged capillary tube (or equivalent), or a bad compressor.

The worst part is that I doubt you will be able to get anyone to service your AC's compressor. From personal experience, and from what I have read, RV ACs, nowadays, are replaced rather than repaired.

I hope your situation turns out better than my gloomy prediction.

Good luck,
Tom
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Old 08-30-2007, 07:50 PM   #16
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I wanted to post earlier - I have this same issue. After an extended run period (at night is when we notice it of course) ours goes into a series of short restarts - causes loud thumps. I belive it's the overheat sensor and now I have your advice to guide me. I'm no AC pro so keep talking - I may get the courage to start looking into this more. The unit is the carrier low profile on the CCD. Runs great for 2-3 hours then starts the sudden slowdown then compressor thump then wind up and runs for 3-5 minutes then repeats. Hard to sleep by so we shut it off until we get hot and get 3 more hours of runtime - repeat cycle.
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Old 08-31-2007, 04:46 AM   #17
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I'm no pro either, but here's what I would do

Quote:
Originally Posted by clancy_boy
... I'm no AC pro so keep talking ...
By now, most everyone has read the threads on how important a quality, 30-amp shore power connection is when running an air conditioner. Most of the time it is adequate to confirm good voltage at an outlet inside the Airstream while the air conditioner is running. However...



On occasion, a loose/faulty wire connection or failing component in the path can cause the AC compressor to end up with low voltage. The compressor will respond by pulling more current. As it pulls more current, it gets hotter. As it gets hotter, it pulls more current. Eventually, it can become a race to see what protects the compressor first - The circuit breaker or the overtemp protection.

If I was troubleshooting clancy_boy's issue, I would start by checking the voltage on the compressor itself. Specifically, at COMPRESSOR points "C" & "R" on the schematic Vaughan posted. Ideally, it will read '120' on the volts-AC setting. Realistically, it will probably read around 118. If it reads 115 volts or less, I would then check the voltage across the OLP. That voltage should read ~0 volts. Then I would read, and make note of, the voltage between OLP point 2 & COMPRESSOR point R, and OLP point 1 & COMPRESSOR point R.

If voltage still looked low, I would move inside and measure the voltage between IT point L & connector 2P point 1, the IT point C & connector 2P point 1.

Then I would check voltage between SW point 8 & connector 2P point 1 followed by SW point 1 & connector 2P point 1.

If no smoking gun had been found, I would check the voltage available at the breaker box. If all the voltages looked good, I would have to assume a problem with the compressor itself. Problems there could include low freon, burnt winding(s), or high system pressure.

I hang it up once it gets to the compressor as I have no gauges or silver-soldering tools.

Tom
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Old 08-31-2007, 08:24 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TomW
There appears to be two electrical devices between power and your air conditioner's (AC) compressor: The thermostat, and the OLP (OverLoad Protector). One of them is causing your problem.

A malfunctioning thermostat will be the cheaper of the two to remedy. But the parts will not be inexpensive.

A malfunctioning OLP will be a reasonable parts charge, but I kind of doubt it went bad since it is a very simple device.

With no first-hand observance of your situation, i.e. me being there and laying hands upon the Carrier V, I suspect that your compressor is overheating and the OLP is protecting it from burnout.

Overheating can be caused by low freon, a plugged capillary tube (or equivalent), or a bad compressor.

The worst part is that I doubt you will be able to get anyone to service your AC's compressor. From personal experience, and from what I have read, RV ACs, nowadays, are replaced rather than repaired.

I hope your situation turns out better than my gloomy prediction.

Good luck,
Tom
Tom, I have come to the same conclusion after reviewing the schematic. I am going to have a 30 amp service installed at my house and then I will troubleshoot the AC. Once again you have been extremely helpful. Perhaps I will be able to help you one day.

There is an RV salvage place here in Phoenix that has quite a large inventory of AC units. That may be a good route if it gets to that point.


Thanks for of your help!!

I will be sure to keep you posted as I figure this out.
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Old 08-31-2007, 08:26 AM   #19
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Best of luck Louis,

I will be following your progress. Thanks for the Karma!

Vaughan
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Old 08-31-2007, 09:55 AM   #20
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Good info in here, but here's what I would do.

After checking the obvious....voltage supplies, thermal overload, etc....my next call would be to Carrier tech support. They will more than likely pinpoint your problem in short order.

And just for informational purposes......ALL RV roof mounted air conditioner units are no longer field serviceable when it comes to replacing components (with the exception of the blower motor, capacitors and circuit boards). If your unit is low on refrigerant, has a blocked capillary tube or needs a replacement compressor....you replace the entire upper unit as the companies have determined that it is far more cost effective for them, especially in warranty situations, to send in a new unit.

Don't forget the warranties! Carrier and RVP (Coleman) have a 2 year warranty and Dometic has a 3 year warranty. If you are the original owner and are with-in the warranty period, my first call would be to an authorized warranty center of to the company itself.

PS: One scenario that hasn't been mentioned is the freeze sensor. It is a thin bulb-type device that is mounted directly into the evaporator coils and joined to the lower electronic control board by a thin 2 conductor wire.

If this sensor is malfunctioning, it will also cause short cycling, as the function of this component is to shut down the compressor if the evaporator freezes up, thus protecting it. You can test this by finding it's terminus in the circuit board and removing the connecting plug and shorting these 2 terminals, which in effect removes the offending sensor from the circuit. If your unit then functions normally, you have found your problem!
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