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Old 08-30-2007, 07:03 PM   #15
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I've got the time, but only two options

Quote:
Originally Posted by lhall
...all the while the fan is running properly. ...
Quote:
... When you have time to list some other checks I will give them a try ...
There appears to be two electrical devices between power and your air conditioner's (AC) compressor: The thermostat, and the OLP (OverLoad Protector). One of them is causing your problem.

A malfunctioning thermostat will be the cheaper of the two to remedy. But the parts will not be inexpensive.

A malfunctioning OLP will be a reasonable parts charge, but I kind of doubt it went bad since it is a very simple device.

With no first-hand observance of your situation, i.e. me being there and laying hands upon the Carrier V, I suspect that your compressor is overheating and the OLP is protecting it from burnout.

Overheating can be caused by low freon, a plugged capillary tube (or equivalent), or a bad compressor.

The worst part is that I doubt you will be able to get anyone to service your AC's compressor. From personal experience, and from what I have read, RV ACs, nowadays, are replaced rather than repaired.

I hope your situation turns out better than my gloomy prediction.

Good luck,
Tom
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Old 08-30-2007, 08:50 PM   #16
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I wanted to post earlier - I have this same issue. After an extended run period (at night is when we notice it of course) ours goes into a series of short restarts - causes loud thumps. I belive it's the overheat sensor and now I have your advice to guide me. I'm no AC pro so keep talking - I may get the courage to start looking into this more. The unit is the carrier low profile on the CCD. Runs great for 2-3 hours then starts the sudden slowdown then compressor thump then wind up and runs for 3-5 minutes then repeats. Hard to sleep by so we shut it off until we get hot and get 3 more hours of runtime - repeat cycle.
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Old 08-31-2007, 05:46 AM   #17
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I'm no pro either, but here's what I would do

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Originally Posted by clancy_boy
... I'm no AC pro so keep talking ...
By now, most everyone has read the threads on how important a quality, 30-amp shore power connection is when running an air conditioner. Most of the time it is adequate to confirm good voltage at an outlet inside the Airstream while the air conditioner is running. However...



On occasion, a loose/faulty wire connection or failing component in the path can cause the AC compressor to end up with low voltage. The compressor will respond by pulling more current. As it pulls more current, it gets hotter. As it gets hotter, it pulls more current. Eventually, it can become a race to see what protects the compressor first - The circuit breaker or the overtemp protection.

If I was troubleshooting clancy_boy's issue, I would start by checking the voltage on the compressor itself. Specifically, at COMPRESSOR points "C" & "R" on the schematic Vaughan posted. Ideally, it will read '120' on the volts-AC setting. Realistically, it will probably read around 118. If it reads 115 volts or less, I would then check the voltage across the OLP. That voltage should read ~0 volts. Then I would read, and make note of, the voltage between OLP point 2 & COMPRESSOR point R, and OLP point 1 & COMPRESSOR point R.

If voltage still looked low, I would move inside and measure the voltage between IT point L & connector 2P point 1, the IT point C & connector 2P point 1.

Then I would check voltage between SW point 8 & connector 2P point 1 followed by SW point 1 & connector 2P point 1.

If no smoking gun had been found, I would check the voltage available at the breaker box. If all the voltages looked good, I would have to assume a problem with the compressor itself. Problems there could include low freon, burnt winding(s), or high system pressure.

I hang it up once it gets to the compressor as I have no gauges or silver-soldering tools.

Tom
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Old 08-31-2007, 09:24 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TomW
There appears to be two electrical devices between power and your air conditioner's (AC) compressor: The thermostat, and the OLP (OverLoad Protector). One of them is causing your problem.

A malfunctioning thermostat will be the cheaper of the two to remedy. But the parts will not be inexpensive.

A malfunctioning OLP will be a reasonable parts charge, but I kind of doubt it went bad since it is a very simple device.

With no first-hand observance of your situation, i.e. me being there and laying hands upon the Carrier V, I suspect that your compressor is overheating and the OLP is protecting it from burnout.

Overheating can be caused by low freon, a plugged capillary tube (or equivalent), or a bad compressor.

The worst part is that I doubt you will be able to get anyone to service your AC's compressor. From personal experience, and from what I have read, RV ACs, nowadays, are replaced rather than repaired.

I hope your situation turns out better than my gloomy prediction.

Good luck,
Tom
Tom, I have come to the same conclusion after reviewing the schematic. I am going to have a 30 amp service installed at my house and then I will troubleshoot the AC. Once again you have been extremely helpful. Perhaps I will be able to help you one day.

There is an RV salvage place here in Phoenix that has quite a large inventory of AC units. That may be a good route if it gets to that point.


Thanks for of your help!!

I will be sure to keep you posted as I figure this out.
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Old 08-31-2007, 09:26 AM   #19
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Best of luck Louis,

I will be following your progress. Thanks for the Karma!

Vaughan
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Old 08-31-2007, 10:55 AM   #20
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Good info in here, but here's what I would do.

After checking the obvious....voltage supplies, thermal overload, etc....my next call would be to Carrier tech support. They will more than likely pinpoint your problem in short order.

And just for informational purposes......ALL RV roof mounted air conditioner units are no longer field serviceable when it comes to replacing components (with the exception of the blower motor, capacitors and circuit boards). If your unit is low on refrigerant, has a blocked capillary tube or needs a replacement compressor....you replace the entire upper unit as the companies have determined that it is far more cost effective for them, especially in warranty situations, to send in a new unit.

Don't forget the warranties! Carrier and RVP (Coleman) have a 2 year warranty and Dometic has a 3 year warranty. If you are the original owner and are with-in the warranty period, my first call would be to an authorized warranty center of to the company itself.

PS: One scenario that hasn't been mentioned is the freeze sensor. It is a thin bulb-type device that is mounted directly into the evaporator coils and joined to the lower electronic control board by a thin 2 conductor wire.

If this sensor is malfunctioning, it will also cause short cycling, as the function of this component is to shut down the compressor if the evaporator freezes up, thus protecting it. You can test this by finding it's terminus in the circuit board and removing the connecting plug and shorting these 2 terminals, which in effect removes the offending sensor from the circuit. If your unit then functions normally, you have found your problem!
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Old 08-31-2007, 11:10 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lewster
Good info in here, but here's what I would do.

After checking the obvious....voltage supplies, thermal overload, etc....my next call would be to Carrier tech support. They will more than likely pinpoint your problem in short order.

And just for informational purposes......ALL RV roof mounted air conditioner units are no longer field serviceable when it comes to replacing components (with the exception of the blower motor, capacitors and circuit boards). If your unit is low on refrigerant, has a blocked capillary tube or needs a replacement compressor....you replace the entire upper unit as the companies have determined that it is far more cost effective for them, especially in warranty situations, to send in a new unit.

Don't forget the warranties! Carrier and RVP (Coleman) have a 2 year warranty and Dometic has a 3 year warranty. If you are the original owner and are with-in the warranty period, my first call would be to an authorized warranty center of to the company itself.

PS: One scenario that hasn't been mentioned is the freeze sensor. It is a thin bulb-type device that is mounted directly into the evaporator coils and joined to the lower electronic control board by a thin 2 conductor wire.

If this sensor is malfunctioning, it will also cause short cycling, as the function of this component is to shut down the compressor if the evaporator freezes up, thus protecting it. You can test this by finding it's terminus in the circuit board and removing the connecting plug and shorting these 2 terminals, which in effect removes the offending sensor from the circuit. If your unit then functions normally, you have found your problem!
Lew,

I will try to contact Carrier again. I think they were having some phone issue yesterday. I recently purchased this AS with the new AC unit already installed. I am not the original purchaser for this unit so any warranty, I am sure, is null and void.

Thanks for the input I will certainly check it out.
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Old 08-31-2007, 02:24 PM   #22
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I know why it wasn't mentioned

Quote:
Originally Posted by lewster
... PS: One scenario that hasn't been mentioned is the freeze sensor. It is a thin bulb-type device that is mounted directly into the evaporator coils and joined to the lower electronic control board by a thin 2 conductor wire. ...
It probably wasn't mentioned, Lew, because you are one of very few people who visit this forum that know of its existence!

You sure the Carrier V has one? I would have thought the schematic would have made note of it.

At any rate, thanks for the heads-up; Look for a little something extra in your User CP.

Tom
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Old 08-31-2007, 02:38 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TomW
It probably wasn't mentioned, Lew, because you are one of very few people who visit this forum that know of its existence!

You sure the Carrier V has one? I would have thought the schematic would have made note of it.

At any rate, thanks for the heads-up; Look for a little something extra in your User CP.

Tom
Tom,

AFAIK, every modern roof A/C unit has one and I've seen them on units from the big 3 manufacturers: Dometic, Carrier and RVP(Coleman). They are not always in the form of a probe inserted into the evap coils though, as some of the older Dometics use a clip-on device on the copper tubing that supplies the evap. but they always wier into the lower electronic control board.

And Thanks!
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Old 09-03-2007, 02:14 PM   #24
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update

Well,

I have checked everything we discussed in this thread. And I believe that the compressor must be toast. It gets too hot to touch after less than a minute of running. The overtemp sensor is working and kicks out like it is supposed to do. I really appreciate all of the information and special thanks to Tom, Lew and Vaughn.

I did install my outlet at the house and I am getting 118 Vac directly from the breaker panet. I have 117.8vac at the AC control panel. The polarity is correct and everything else checks out. If you see anything I have missed let me know.

Thanks again everyone.
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Old 09-03-2007, 05:03 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lhall
Well,

I have checked everything we discussed in this thread. And I believe that the compressor must be toast. It gets too hot to touch after less than a minute of running. The overtemp sensor is working and kicks out like it is supposed to do. I really appreciate all of the information and special thanks to Tom, Lew and Vaughn.

I did install my outlet at the house and I am getting 118 Vac directly from the breaker panet. I have 117.8vac at the AC control panel. The polarity is correct and everything else checks out. If you see anything I have missed let me know.

Thanks again everyone.
Not often, but it is possible that the unit is low on Freon.

The compressor should be warm, but never hot.

If the compressor is very hot, that means it's probably low
on refrigerant.

That would also explain the short cycling.

The large copper line coming from the compressor, should be very cold. If not, that also suggests a low Freon level.

Not cool, but very cold is what your looking for.

If it's very cold, then the small copper line at the compressor should be very "hot."

Should the AC be low on freon, you will need to have someone that knows how to recharge an AC correct the problem.

Andy
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Old 09-03-2007, 05:32 PM   #26
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Aye, therein lies the rub

Quote:
Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In
...Should the AC be low on freon, you will need to have someone that knows how to recharge an AC correct the problem.
Out of curiosity, Andy, would your shop fix this unit or replace it? Earlier posts in this thread incline me to believe Carrier did not make it cost-effective to service the unit.

Tom
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Old 09-03-2007, 05:53 PM   #27
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Quote:
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Out of curiosity, Andy, would your shop fix this unit or replace it? Earlier posts in this thread incline me to believe Carrier did not make it cost-effective to service the unit.

Tom
Anyone can replace any appliance.

Unless the appliance was given a "gone south" diagnosis, we would first check it out in our shop.

All to many times, we have found that with some proper service, especially with an AC, it's life has been saved to continue service for many more years.

If we find that the appliance has indeed died, then and only then would we replace it. In the case of an AC, if the compressor is gone, then a complete AC replacement would be in order, since compressor's are expensive, especially for the older AC's.

Andy
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Old 09-03-2007, 07:06 PM   #28
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Low on Freon

It would be worth it to have someone check that out prior to giving the unit last rites. This unit was mfg in 2005. I would think that freon would not be an issue, but you never know, there could be a leak or whatever. When the unit did work, it blew very cold air. BTW, I was kind of peeved when I saw that the unit was made in Korea. I guess that is a sign of the times.

Thanks Andy, for the information.
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