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Old 04-30-2011, 07:03 AM   #1
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vhariable's Avatar
1967 30' Sovereign
1977 31' Sovereign
1988 29' Excella
Abilene , Texas
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 73
Carrier Normal Profile - Add Drain Line

So I have read through all of the threads talking about adding a drain line to the Carrier normal/high profile unit. First I AM going to do this so please don't try to explain how the unit is suppose to work or talk me out of doing this. I live in Texas and use the AC. With how this thing is setup I will have water draining down the side of my AS all summer.

From what I have seen and heard it sounds like most people are drilling into the pan and feeding the line through the 14x14 opening. I would really like to hear from anyone that has done it on one that looks like mine where there is a plastic pan under the coils that then has a trough that leads to the metal base and then looks like eventually out of holes that are existing in the rear of the base. The best place to put it would be in the trough, but then I would have to have a new hole and you would see a hose on the outside of the opening. Any advice and pictures would be much appreciated.
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'67, '77, & '88 Restoration Projects
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Old 04-30-2011, 07:07 AM   #2
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1993 21' Sovereign
Colfax , North Carolina
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Your Carrier should have a plug mounted in the base of the pan. That should be what you hook the drain hose to, there is a kit for this, though I don't know how "available" it would be this long after Carrier has gone out of the RV a/c business.

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Old 05-01-2011, 07:10 AM   #3
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vhariable's Avatar
1967 30' Sovereign
1977 31' Sovereign
1988 29' Excella
Abilene , Texas
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 73
I don't see a plug in my model. From reading other threads it sounds like the plug and kit was for the low profile units. This unit I have is the 15,000BTU heat pump.

Anyone tied into the drain lime on this type of model? The coils that are above the 14" opening have a plastic catch pan on top of the metal base. This plastic catch pan has a trough that then drains into the curb side of the metal base pan towards the rear about 2" behind the 14" opening. The metal base then gets lower towards the rear coils where there are three holes where the water drains out onto the trailer. There is some plumbers putty where the plastic trough drains into the metal base to keep the water running back towards the rear coils and three holes.

The easy place to add a drain would be near where the trough drains into the metal base since that is only one hole, but it is outside of the 14" opening and I would prefer to keep everything in the 14" opening if possible.

I am sure someone else has done this and I am curious about your solution and how it has worked for you over time?
'67, '77, & '88 Restoration Projects
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Old 05-01-2011, 07:58 AM   #4
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1979 31' Sovereign
Milford , Ohio
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I own the same type of Carrier unit and while I like it a lot, that slinger ring on the condenser fan is useless during any high humidity, which is most of the time here in Ohio.

Even before I installed the unit I looked it over carefully to see where I could possibly install a drain line connection and came up with no easy solution. As you mentioned, there is no existing plug to tap into, and putting the connection outside of the coil enclosure would just be asking for trouble such as clogging by anything that got inside the shroud.

An idea I did have was to drill the bottom of the pan from inside the trailer, roughly in the center and towards the front. This would be tough as there is not much clearance around the coil and you would need about a 3/8" or 1/2" hole. You'd have to remove the interior section in order to get to this. My next step would be to get a plastic 90 degree fitting with a flange on one end and barbed on the other. Using some type of solvent glue I'd butt the flange up to the hole I drilled and once it cured I'd slip the old drain tube over the barbed connection. Might have to extend the tube and really I can't remember if there is clearance to even fit that 90 degree ell up there.

I haven't tried this so you are at your own risk. My concern was not running a drill into the coil, but finding the proper solvent glue to attach the fitting. If it pops loose later all that mosture will just dump inside and you're really screwed.

Just had an idea though, with the shroud off (easier than taking inside pieces off) you could always glue a fitting (or part of one) to the side or an out of the way place on the pan just as a test weld. Then try to break it off after a few days when you know it has set up.

You sound determined so please send me a follow up on what you end up doing. Like I said this is a great unit but the lack of a drain connection really stinks.

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Old 05-01-2011, 09:04 AM   #5
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Naples, FL , Hood River, OR
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I'm not familiar with the base pan arrangement of this unit, as almost all of the work I do is on Dometic and RVP-Coleman A/Cs, but if your unit has holes in the base pan where the condensate drains out, then there IS a solution to your problem.

ALL of the larger motor home manufacturers use this kit to move the condensate from the drain holes in the pan into an internal drain line, just like Airstreams use. This kit is made by Dometic and uses part # 3107688.016 and is comprised by 2 drain cups with drain fittings that screw into the bottom of the base pan, a hose with fittings and clamps to link the drain cups together and then into the internal drain line, and an additional 14" X 14" gasket for the bottom of the unit that allows the A/C unit to be mounted a bit higher so the drain cups clear the roof.

This system is also very effective on newer Airstreams that use the plastic base pan, which is totally unnecessary with this 'auxiliary drain kit'.

I'll see if I have one in stock and post a photo in the next few days.
Lew Farber...ABYC Certified Master Marine Electrician...RVIA Certified Master Tech ...AM Solar Authorized Installation Center...AIRSTREAM Solar & Electrical Specialist...Micro Air 'Easy Start' Sales and Installations
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Old 05-01-2011, 09:49 AM   #6
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Dewey , Arizona
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One of the reasons I went with the low profile Carrier was the drain line attachment. I don't believe it was part of the standard profile units. The low profile also looks very nice on a vintage unit.


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Old 05-01-2011, 10:26 AM   #7
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1967 24' Tradewind
Little Rock , Arkansas
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I have the same 15,000 Btu heat pump.

When I installed it, there was a small catch that holds the vent closed on one side of the base unit. To get another, I had to track down and speak to a Carrier rep (who couldn't have been nicer or more helpful once I actually got to a person).

While I had him on the phone, I asked about adapting one of the drains for the Low Profile units to my Standard Profile. He confirmed that the drain adapters were strictly for the Low Profile units and didn't think that there was any practical way to adapt one to the Standard Profile.

As your photos show, there is mostly a small system of plastic gutters beneath the evaporator and there is not really much of pan at all. I couldn't see any place I felt comfortable drilling a hole and scabbing on a drain adapter. If you figure out how to attach a drain line, I certainly will be interested. Take more photos!

Yes, I do get spillover draining down the side here in Arkansas. It does kind of work, though. There are days when the humidity is lower (it's never really low here) and it doesn't drain down the side. My Trade Wind had a Coleman installed when I bought it back in the 1980's and it has no drain attached. There is a lot more drainage than comes from the Carrier. The Carrier's system must be evaporating quite a bit. I would still rather have a functioning drain, especially since the tube is already there.
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Old 05-01-2011, 01:51 PM   #8
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1967 30' Sovereign
1977 31' Sovereign
1988 29' Excella
Abilene , Texas
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 73
The best place I have seen so far is on the very edge of the curb side front coil right on the edge. It is the lowest point in the plastic right before the gutter and would require going through a little if the inside edge of the foam seal to add an elbow. Not drilling into the coil and getting a good seal for the elbow are my concerns. Would obviously need to go through the metal base and the plastic gutter. Could add some plumbers putty to dam up the gutter, but am now sure about a good way to attach the elbow. I will take pictures of what I come up with.

Thank you all for your input and ideas!

'67, '77, & '88 Restoration Projects
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