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Old 08-02-2007, 04:40 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tlavergne
Andy, Why is no drain pan required? I think I need to replace my original Armstrong on my 1978 Ambassador. The AC keeps tripping the trailer breaker after about a half an hour in 90 degree temps. The Carrier Low Profile 15,000 with a heat strip sounds like the best option.
Thanks.
Tom
If your AC seems to cool ok, try a new breaker before you spring for the big $. Mine would run for several days then for no reason, trip. If I replace my AC, I will consider a heat pump and keep the propane for below 35 degrees. I agree with the technology and have had one in my home for years. If I'm on my meter, the monthly bill should be less than e-strip.
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Old 08-02-2007, 08:04 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Inland RV Center

Your present AC can be tripping the breaker for several reasons.

If your using an extension cord, it must be of adequate rating. The rating depends on the length of the cord.

The line voltage could be low to start with.

The freon level could be low.

The compressor could be on it's last legs.

Andy
I am plugged directly into a dedicated 30 amp RV service fed with 10 Ga. wire from my home service box...no extension cord. With no load on the system I am reading 119 volts in the trailer. When I fire up the AC it dipped to 95 for a half a second and settled in at 111.5 volts. I think tomorrow I will replace the breakers and see if that helps. I just ran the AC for 5 minutes or so, unplugged from shore power and removed the AC breaker...it was pretty warm. Thanks for all of the info and advice.
Tom
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Old 08-03-2007, 03:30 PM   #17
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Well I think I solved my problem. I replaced all three 30 year old breakers and the AC has been running all day in 95 degree temps with no problems. Hopefully that was the problem. Thanks for all of the input.
Tom
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Old 08-03-2007, 06:40 PM   #18
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This is v-e-r-y interesting topic... we currently have a 13,500 and in the summer heat here (up to over a hundred and with the humidity/heat index... whoa!), it sometimes feels marginal without an extra fan circulating the air. So, been thinking of a 15K and am wondering if the extra would really make that much of a difference to justify the cost? Would definitly want to get a low profile with heatstrip as the heatstrip does take the edge off in our falls & winters down here.
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Old 08-04-2007, 09:40 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tlavergne
Well I think I solved my problem. I replaced all three 30 year old breakers and the AC has been running all day in 95 degree temps with no problems. Hopefully that was the problem. Thanks for all of the input.
Tom
#8848
Way to go!

Jaxon- try a dehumidifyer to relieve some of the load off of the AC. I keep one in a SOB at the weekend property and it helps dump the water from the interior and frees up the AC to do it's job
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Old 08-05-2007, 10:46 AM   #20
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I just ordered a 15000 btu low profile Carrier from Palomino. Now I am kinda thinking I should have gotten the heat strip. We don't do much winter camping and even then the temps rarely go below freezing here.
Three questions: How well does the heat strip work, and can I add it on myself? If I can, do I need to do it before i install the A/C?
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Old 08-05-2007, 11:02 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gparker
I just ordered a 15000 btu low profile Carrier from Palomino. Now I am kinda thinking I should have gotten the heat strip. We don't do much winter camping and even then the temps rarely go below freezing here.
Three questions: How well does the heat strip work, and can I add it on myself? If I can, do I need to do it before i install the A/C?
No worries:

The heat strip is actually installed as you assemble the lower unit of the A/C, so it is no problem to order it and install it later. It's a plug and play ordeal with 4 additional screws.

Just remember that the heat strip is not designed to be a true heat source as it is only about 5000 watts. It will take the chill out of the morning air nicely, though.
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Old 08-05-2007, 11:02 AM   #22
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My understanding is that the heat strip is part of an entirely different lower housing. You could do it later, but then you would still have, and have bought the non-heated lower unit. Why don’t you see if you can make the swap before you even open the lower unit box? Having owned ACs with and without the heat strip, I will never be without heat in the AC. It’s prefect for just a little chill, and you don’t have to go dig up an electric heater.

Vaughan
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Old 08-05-2007, 11:19 AM   #23
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We have always used the heat strip for our mild fall & winter mornings/evenings only using the furnace when the temp really drops. Really takes the chill off and circulates the air better than the little ceramic plug-ins.

HiHoAgRV - we've thought about a de-humidifier but have debated the size & space issue... with a dog, space is at a premium but maybe that's the trade-off when the humidity is 80%!
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Old 08-05-2007, 11:22 AM   #24
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Right now our furnace is inop so what we have been using for heat is a small plug-in heater with a 3-5k btu rating, so the heat strip would probably be just as good or better, with even distribution of the heat. Lew, is that true about a different housing for the unit with the heatstrip? For that matter, I have a heatstrip in the A/C I am replacing, which is an old Dometic. If it fits, could I use it?
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Old 08-05-2007, 12:43 PM   #25
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Good afternoon everyone... On the subject of heat strips, we put one in our other Argosy when we put the new A/C in... didn't like it and would not waste our money again on one.. just our opinion
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Old 08-05-2007, 01:51 PM   #26
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Andy...got a question for ya

Andy..I have a 05 FB LS, 13,500 BTU with the wall themostat. I believe it's the Penquin low profile. I find most of these roof units are not very quiet even on low setting. This Penquin model has the squirrel cage blades on both the hot and cold side of the unit up on the roof. Exhausting the hot air out the side or back of the unit. However...now I see some aftermarket models offer hot air exhaust directly out the top with the regular fan blade similiar to your house outside condenser. Are these units any quieter inside? Personally... I find after having several of these Penquin models their over rated, it's like a big blower sitting on the roof. Yes...it does cool but it blows you insane with the noise. Can you recommend through your experience a quiet unit, it does not have to be low profile and I do not care about a heat pump. Appreciate any info on this, Thanks
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Old 08-19-2007, 11:57 PM   #27
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Cool Low Rider

Quote:
Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In
The Carrier low profile, is by far, the best.

No drain pan is required.

Andy
Looking on the Carrier site...
The low vs reg roof A/C...

Reg
Slinger for less water drainage
All copper coils
About 50 cfm more air flow

Low
Does not brag about coil material = aluminum?
No braging about slinger = lots of drainage ?

Why would low profile be best?
I like the idea of looking cool, also want to be cool
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Old 08-20-2007, 05:43 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by klattu
Looking on the Carrier site...
The low vs reg roof A/C...

Reg
Slinger for less water drainage
All copper coils
About 50 cfm more air flow

Low
Does not brag about coil material = aluminum?
No braging about slinger = lots of drainage ?

Why would low profile be best?
I like the idea of looking cool, also want to be cool
The two "lows" are very interesting indeed. Say they were both equal to the regular Carrier, the bottom line is the 50cfm air flow. Pretty much sums it up. Guess "looking" cool is relative... hate it when I sweat...
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