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Old 03-26-2014, 10:05 AM   #29
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1972 31' Sovereign
1964 30' Sovereign
Richland , Washington
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Thanks! Not sure what you're envious of, yours looks great too, if not better.
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1972 31' Sovereign
1964 30' Sovereign
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Old 03-26-2014, 10:37 PM   #30
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1972 31' Sovereign
1975 31' Excella 500
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Lol, your 64 is the bomb!

It is just too cool for school!
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Old 03-27-2014, 02:30 PM   #31
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1966 26' Overlander
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SilverMiette - I have a 66 Overlander and just started the removal process of the original A/C. I was expecting a 14" opening and was surprised to see it wasn't. Was yours that way as well? Did you have to cut out a new 14" opening? How did you beef up the opening to support the new A/C. I did find one thread where the old A/C was rebuilt. That is still an option as well. Please give me your thoughts. Thank You.
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Old 03-27-2014, 05:28 PM   #32
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1972 31' Sovereign
1964 30' Sovereign
Richland , Washington
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Thankfully, the original AC on my 64 was already removed by a PO. I saw the patch work that was done and the outline from it (oxidized aluminum vs. protected). But I could see that there wasn't a 14" opening, more like a couple smaller openings. A different design back then I guess.

Instead of cutting an opening, I removed one of the original vents, which was a rough 14x14 opening (I had to trim it to make it 14.25" x 14.25"). That opening was in between two main support ribs which made installing additional support easier.

For the additional support I used wood 2x2's and framed it up to match the opening size (I attached photos). I've read the pros and cons to using wood and went with it since I didn't have access to rib material. I attached that wood frame to the ribs on either side of the opening. It's pretty beefed up and strong. I'm hoping the vibration will be minimal since I just installed new axles and the AC being new will have minimal vibration as well. I would think vibration could cause problems with the wood frame. Hoping it doesn't.

Hope that helps.
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Old 03-28-2014, 11:19 AM   #33
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Thank you very much. That is helpful, especially with the photos.
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Old 04-10-2014, 10:43 AM   #34
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1969 25' Tradewind
Ely , Minnesota
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SilverMiette View Post
Thankfully, the original AC on my 64 was already removed by a PO. I saw the patch work that was done and the outline from it (oxidized aluminum vs. protected). But I could see that there wasn't a 14" opening, more like a couple smaller openings. A different design back then I guess.

Instead of cutting an opening, I removed one of the original vents, which was a rough 14x14 opening (I had to trim it to make it 14.25" x 14.25"). That opening was in between two main support ribs which made installing additional support easier.

For the additional support I used wood 2x2's and framed it up to match the opening size (I attached photos). I've read the pros and cons to using wood and went with it since I didn't have access to rib material. I attached that wood frame to the ribs on either side of the opening. It's pretty beefed up and strong. I'm hoping the vibration will be minimal since I just installed new axles and the AC being new will have minimal vibration as well. I would think vibration could cause problems with the wood frame. Hoping it doesn't.

Hope that helps.
The photos have been very helpful to me. I plan on installing an Atwood on my '69 and have been trying to figure out the design for the bracing. It looks like your bracing structure is perfectly flat. Does anyone have an opinion if one should cut a curve to the framing to match the curvature of the outer hull? Did you incorporate shimming to accommodate this curvature without cutting it?
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Old 04-10-2014, 11:52 AM   #35
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I built a wooden frame that is curved at the front and back to the roof and ribs. The middle around the roof opening where the A/C sits is flat. It's slightly different than what Kelly built, but pretty much the same concept. You can see pictures of the frame here in post 364:

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f185...-50967-26.html

Chris
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Old 04-10-2014, 12:19 PM   #36
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1969 25' Tradewind
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Ok. Makes sense sort of...So, when you attached the AC, you just let the outer shell buckle to become flat then?
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Old 04-10-2014, 02:09 PM   #37
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Ok. Makes sense sort of...So, when you attached the AC, you just let the outer shell buckle to become flat then?
Yup. I used the drip pan, and it's curved at the front and back to match the roof curve. The side supports in the wood frame I made are tight to the roof skin on either side of the opening, so the only flattening that occurs is right at the front and rear of the opening. The gaskets get compressed pretty well, and it hasn't leaked at all.
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Old 07-07-2015, 11:39 AM   #38
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I always thought a darker shroud would make a difference, but Idroba's argument seems sound. Anyone else have an opinion or experience on this issue?
Black a/c shrouds come on sob trailers with black graphics or window surrounds and big Class A's with black in the full body paint-
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Old 07-07-2015, 01:00 PM   #39
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Originally Posted by ROBERTSUNRUS View Post
Hi, buy the air conditioner of your choice and buy a life time shroud in black or white from Icon-Direct. Also, too many times, people say you should buy this type/size air conditioner because of where you live; That's fine if you only camp in your back yard. We travel and our trailer needs to work where ever we go with it.
POI....on the Icon-Direct shrouds.

Although they fit well, they do not accept paint or decals. The UV resistant material has very poor adhesion properties, something not noted on their website when I purchased ours.
I applied replacement Airstream Logo decals that slid off in the first rainstorm.
After many emails and phone calls,(people only want white or black and why would you want to apply a decal or paint it?), they finally gave me an RA number knowing full well that it would cost me $130 UPS and almost as much USPS, to send it back to Canada.

Customer Service...not so much.

Ck the Classifieds..it's still for sale.

Bob
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