Camping World AC installation

[lewster]

Chuman,

You can get all of the aluminum u-channel you could ever use from McMaster-Carr. It comes in lots of lengths, sizes and thicknesses. It's NOT rocket science to install, just a little patience, reading the install instructions that come with the unit a couple of times before you begin, and go for it!

Follow Andy's instructions about locating the wiring, and you should be good to go!

[danesh]

Hi. We have a 84 Sovereign which has a Coleman AC with a run-off hose (water comes out from under the AS). The AC is getting old. The Heat Strip is not working and I just replaced the temperature adjusting controler. In case we need to replace the old AC, what kind of new brands will fit our AS so that we can still use the run-off hose? Also, the Fridge, which is Dometic RM1303, stoped working with electricity. We are using it with propane gas. But the main compartment is not coling well. Though, the freezer section works OK. The local RV shop told us that the control board is bad and it needs to be changed ($300.00). I cannot find the board from the outside access door of the unit or underside of the unit. We are thinking to replace the fridge too. Any advice or comments regarding these two replacements are appreciated.
Cheers

[lewster]

Danesh,

If you are replacing an existing A/C unit, you can litterally pick any unit to go up there. Just be aware that to make use of your drain hose, you need a drip pan with a Dometic Duo-Therm and none with a Carrier.

On your fridge, the control board is located on the back of the fridge underneath a black plastic box, approx. 3" X 5". Insert a screwdriver where marked on either side and it should pop off.

Was the board tested to see if it was operating properly? Do yourself a favor and perform this little test: Locate the AC heating element. It is on the boiler tube and is about a 3/8" tube perpendicular to the boiler section and will have 2 wires coming out of it.

1. disconnect the fridge from the 120VAC socket
2. follow those wires from the element down to the control board and remove them from the control board.
3. you are going to plug the element into a 120VAC outlet DIRECTLY.....bypassing the control board.
4. the fridge should be OFF....No LP or AC.
5. run an extension cord to the wires from the element and plug it in. (you might need to cut the end from an old extension cord and add a male 1/4" spade connector to the hot and nuetral to allow the extension to mate with the heating element wires. The polarity doesn't matter in this exercise.
6. be sure that the leads of your connection are INSULATED....use electrical tape for this on BOTH.
7. plug it in and let it run overnight

If your element is good, the fridge will get VERY cold. If it IS good, then chances are that either the AC outlet in the trailer for the fridge is not getting power-OR- the control board is bad.

Let us know what you find out!

[danesh]

Thanks Lewster:
I did the test and it got very cold(the main compartment got to 32 degrees). So it must be the board. Now I have to find a board that fits RM1303.
Regarding the AC, does the Carrier takes advantage of the run-off hose, or do I have to do some modifications? What about a Coleman PS? It works with less amperage (around 10A). We are thinking to get a Honda EU2000W generator in case we do some dry camping and I thought with that I could cool down the unit to comfortable levels. Any thoughts?
Cheers
danesh

[overlander63]

Originally Posted by danesh

Thanks Lewster:
I did the test and it got very cold(the main compartment got to 32 degrees). So it must be the board. Now I have to find a board that fits RM1303.

Go here for the board:

Dinosaur Electronics Home. High quality circuit boards for RV appliances.

[lewster]

Originally Posted by danesh

Thanks Lewster:
I did the test and it got very cold(the main compartment got to 32 degrees). So it must be the board. Now I have to find a board that fits RM1303.
Regarding the AC, does the Carrier takes advantage of the run-off hose, or do I have to do some modifications? What about a Coleman PS? It works with less amperage (around 10A). We are thinking to get a Honda EU2000W generator in case we do some dry camping and I thought with that I could cool down the unit to comfortable levels. Any thoughts?
Cheers
danesh

Hey Danesh,

Good suggestion for the Dinosaur boards. I use them exclusively when I have to replace a control board. Nice 3-year warranty and MADE IN USA!!

On the A/C, I don't believe that a Honda 2000 has the power to genetate enough starting amperage to get a unit running. That's where the problems occur. A bunch of members have the Yamaha EF2400iS and report that it WILL start and run their roof units.

Depending on the unit you choose, you may need to modify it slightly to connect it to the drain tube. It usually involves drilling a hole in the drip pan for an elbow fitting and caulking it in, then attaching the drain hose.

[overlander63]

Originally Posted by lewster

On the A/C, I don't believe that a Honda 2000 has the power to genetate enough starting amperage to get a unit running. That's where the problems occur. A bunch of members have the Yamaha EF2400iS and report that it WILL start and run their roof units.

Our Honda 2000 will not start the roof A/C on our coach. It will handily run everything else, most of it at the same time, but the initial load of the compressor startup is too much for it. If you try to use the 2000 this way, it will ruin the compressor.

[Inland RV Center, In]

Originally Posted by danesh

Thanks Lewster:
I did the test and it got very cold(the main compartment got to 32 degrees). So it must be the board. Now I have to find a board that fits RM1303.
Regarding the AC, does the Carrier takes advantage of the run-off hose, or do I have to do some modifications? What about a Coleman PS? It works with less amperage (around 10A). We are thinking to get a Honda EU2000W generator in case we do some dry camping and I thought with that I could cool down the unit to comfortable levels. Any thoughts?
Cheers
danesh

The new Carrier AC's do not need a drain hose.

The amount of current that any AC draws is a function of it's BTU rating.

You can get an AC that draws 5 amps, but it wouldn't begin to cool the interior of a car.

A Honda 2000 won't even start a proper sized AC for your trailer.

Andy

[danesh]

Thank you all for letting us to know about the Honda EU2000 and the AC. I saw some treads about Yamaha 2400 which has some surge power build into it. However, right now the most important thing is the Fridge. Let me tell you what i did. I checked the heating element (42 ohms) and no shorts. I checked for the 12 volts DC to the board and it is there (13.2 V). I checked for 120 V AC, and I get that at the heating elements terminals. This is what I suspect. The Board sends the signal to the igniter as if there is no 120 V present, while there is actually 120 V at the terminals. I have not checked the on-off switch yet. Before I order a board I'll try to check that one to make sure I am not spending $200 because of a bad switch. I'll let you all know about this soon.
Also, I think we will go with carrier A/C unless somebody can tell us why we should not.
Thanks and Cheers
Danesh

[bilby05]

Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In

You need to get a 74 "service manual."
That will give you the basic instructions. It will be the best investment you ever made.
Once you have it, then it becomes very easy to guide you from there.
What model Carrier AC did you buy?
Andy

Hey Andy,
You are indeed a wealth of information. Along the line of sevice manuals: I know they did not make a service manual for my '69 Sovereign, but have been told that the later ones (74?) offer a wealth of information. Is it worth it to buy the later one to apply to working on an earlier one? BTW the axles are working fine now(after your folks straighened out my "installer.") That was a close call.
thanks, bill b.

[overlander63]

Here's a link to an Ebay auction for a reproduction 1972 service manual:
eBay Motors: 1972 Airstream Factory Service Manual (item 260130655692 end time Jun-27-07 07:22:39 PDT)
It is buy it now for $49.99

[Inland RV Center, In]

Originally Posted by bilby05

Hey Andy,
You are indeed a wealth of information. Along the line of sevice manuals: I know they did not make a service manual for my '69 Sovereign, but have been told that the later ones (74?) offer a wealth of information. Is it worth it to buy the later one to apply to working on an earlier one? BTW the axles are working fine now(after your folks straighened out my "installer.") That was a close call.
thanks, bill b.

Buying a service manual, even though it is not for your year trailer, is the "best" investment you could ever make.

If it answered just one question, then it already paid for itself.

The manuals cover many things that are not year essentail, such as how do you work on the brakes, sheet metal, etc.

Andy

[SnorkyII]

Andy, are you there?

I am replacing the Armstrong A/C on my 73 Argosy with a DuoTherm Dometic 13.5 BTU unit. The question is, do I use the roof mounting from the Armstrong, or do I need a special part (ie drip pan?) from Airstream?

Thanks,
Sam Halderman

PS: The new A/C has not arrived yet, and I haven't seen the installation instructions.

[Inland RV Center, In]

Originally Posted by SnorkyII

Andy, are you there?

I am replacing the Armstrong A/C on my 73 Argosy with a DuoTherm Dometic 13.5 BTU unit. The question is, do I use the roof mounting from the Armstrong, or do I need a special part (ie drip pan?) from Airstream?

Thanks,
Sam Halderman

PS: The new A/C has not arrived yet, and I haven't seen the installation instructions.

You will need a drip pan.

Andy

[lewster]

Originally Posted by SnorkyII

Andy, are you there?

I am replacing the Armstrong A/C on my 73 Argosy with a DuoTherm Dometic 13.5 BTU unit. The question is, do I use the roof mounting from the Armstrong, or do I need a special part (ie drip pan?) from Airstream?

Thanks,
Sam Halderman

PS: The new A/C has not arrived yet, and I haven't seen the installation instructions.

Sam,

Dometic has a new fitting kit that eliminates the need for the drip pan and still allows you to connect the A/C drain to your internal drain hose. It will make for a cleaner installation without the drip pan.

I'm traveling at the moment and don't have the part #, but you can call Dometic Direct at 1-800-366-3842, tell them that you need the drip kit that replaces the old drip pan for an Airstream and you should be good to go. About $50 IIRC .

[SnorkyII]

Lew & Andy: Thanks for the information about the Dometic kit. I will call Dometic after the new A/C arrives.

Sam