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Old 06-08-2007, 07:35 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chuman70
I haven't bought one yet because I wanted to make sure I would be able to have it installed. I'm not having much luck locally with anyone who will put it in without putting it in in a vent. I want it done right, but no one around here feels comfortable cutting a hole in the roof. How do those things seal anyway? Would you recommend a 13500 BTU unit for my 25 foot trailer?
Since you are in the Deep South, like us, I would recommend a 15000 btu unit, and get the optional heat strip. It's less than $100, and should be enough to keep you toasty on the mornings it is a little chilly.
The new A/C units clamp to the roof, and seal with a foam gasket. I put a Carrier 15,000 btu unit with heat strip in a SOB MoHo last Summer, it works great, and doesn't leak. The Carrier is nice because it has the powered distribution vents, a well as the air shower. The air shower is a vent that points straight down, allowing you to stand directly underneath and get cooled off when you have been outside.
Also, it does not require a drip pan.
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Old 06-08-2007, 08:01 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chuman70
I haven't bought one yet because I wanted to make sure I would be able to have it installed. I'm not having much luck locally with anyone who will put it in without putting it in in a vent. I want it done right, but no one around here feels comfortable cutting a hole in the roof. How do those things seal anyway? Would you recommend a 13500 BTU unit for my 25 foot trailer?
Went with a Dometic Penguin AC, the drip pan is a must item from Airstream, the Airstream drip pan will only work with the Dometic Penguin. This is also typical on all new Aistreams...........

Camping World did the installation on my 65 Caravel, they cut a 14 X14 hole, wired it, ran a drip tube, and every thing went perfect, of course the tech was an expert, and has done a few installs, I made sure of that.

Camping World removed the 14x14x2 gasket from the Penguin, per Airstream, then they applied a tube of caulking to the bottom of drip pan, placed the drip pan over the 14x14 opening, make sure that you place a drop cloth on the floor, you will get some of the caulking dripping down, that is a good thing, they placed the air unit on top of the drip pan (a 2 man job), then installed the bolt.........
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Old 06-08-2007, 08:05 AM   #17
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Condensation Drip Tube

I am having one put in now. My tech says the tricky part is some AC units need a little adaption to connect to the drip tube. Otherwise the condensation runs down the outside skin.
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Old 06-08-2007, 10:21 AM   #18
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overlander63,

I was pretty sure the 15k btu was what I needed. Don't want to be toast on those hot July and August days! Just to clarify, the stabilizers will go from side to side to keep the skin from sagging. Is that right? Does anyone have a picture of an installation of these so i can see how to attach them? Also, where can I get aluminum U-channel?
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Old 06-08-2007, 11:17 AM   #19
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I know Camping World has it's customer base, but as far as I am concerned, I would not bring a go kart for them to work on, but that's just me.
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Old 06-08-2007, 11:31 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chuman70
overlander63,

I was pretty sure the 15k btu was what I needed. Don't want to be toast on those hot July and August days! Just to clarify, the stabilizers will go from side to side to keep the skin from sagging. Is that right? Does anyone have a picture of an installation of these so i can see how to attach them? Also, where can I get aluminum U-channel?
The stringers "must" go side to side, and front to back.

This is what a Carrier looks like when installed correctly.

DO NOT ATTEMPT to mount any AC in a vent hole.

Inland RV Center, Inc. - Carrier A/C

Again, installing one is very easy. Many owners have done it themselves.

Andy
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Old 06-08-2007, 01:33 PM   #21
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Chuman,

You can get all of the aluminum u-channel you could ever use from McMaster-Carr. It comes in lots of lengths, sizes and thicknesses. It's NOT rocket science to install, just a little patience, reading the install instructions that come with the unit a couple of times before you begin, and go for it!

Follow Andy's instructions about locating the wiring, and you should be good to go!
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Old 06-10-2007, 04:42 PM   #22
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AC and Fridge Replacement Advice

Hi. We have a 84 Sovereign which has a Coleman AC with a run-off hose (water comes out from under the AS). The AC is getting old. The Heat Strip is not working and I just replaced the temperature adjusting controler. In case we need to replace the old AC, what kind of new brands will fit our AS so that we can still use the run-off hose? Also, the Fridge, which is Dometic RM1303, stoped working with electricity. We are using it with propane gas. But the main compartment is not coling well. Though, the freezer section works OK. The local RV shop told us that the control board is bad and it needs to be changed ($300.00). I cannot find the board from the outside access door of the unit or underside of the unit. We are thinking to replace the fridge too. Any advice or comments regarding these two replacements are appreciated.
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Old 06-10-2007, 07:35 PM   #23
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Danesh,

If you are replacing an existing A/C unit, you can litterally pick any unit to go up there. Just be aware that to make use of your drain hose, you need a drip pan with a Dometic Duo-Therm and none with a Carrier.

On your fridge, the control board is located on the back of the fridge underneath a black plastic box, approx. 3" X 5". Insert a screwdriver where marked on either side and it should pop off.

Was the board tested to see if it was operating properly? Do yourself a favor and perform this little test: Locate the AC heating element. It is on the boiler tube and is about a 3/8" tube perpendicular to the boiler section and will have 2 wires coming out of it.

1. disconnect the fridge from the 120VAC socket
2. follow those wires from the element down to the control board and remove them from the control board.
3. you are going to plug the element into a 120VAC outlet DIRECTLY.....bypassing the control board.
4. the fridge should be OFF....No LP or AC.
5. run an extension cord to the wires from the element and plug it in. (you might need to cut the end from an old extension cord and add a male 1/4" spade connector to the hot and nuetral to allow the extension to mate with the heating element wires. The polarity doesn't matter in this exercise.
6. be sure that the leads of your connection are INSULATED....use electrical tape for this on BOTH.
7. plug it in and let it run overnight

If your element is good, the fridge will get VERY cold. If it IS good, then chances are that either the AC outlet in the trailer for the fridge is not getting power-OR- the control board is bad.

Let us know what you find out!
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Old 06-15-2007, 12:05 AM   #24
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Thanks Lewster:
I did the test and it got very cold(the main compartment got to 32 degrees). So it must be the board. Now I have to find a board that fits RM1303.
Regarding the AC, does the Carrier takes advantage of the run-off hose, or do I have to do some modifications? What about a Coleman PS? It works with less amperage (around 10A). We are thinking to get a Honda EU2000W generator in case we do some dry camping and I thought with that I could cool down the unit to comfortable levels. Any thoughts?
Cheers
danesh
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Old 06-15-2007, 06:17 AM   #25
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1993 21' Sovereign
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danesh
Thanks Lewster:
I did the test and it got very cold(the main compartment got to 32 degrees). So it must be the board. Now I have to find a board that fits RM1303.
Go here for the board:

Dinosaur Electronics Home. High quality circuit boards for RV appliances.
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Old 06-15-2007, 06:38 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danesh
Thanks Lewster:
I did the test and it got very cold(the main compartment got to 32 degrees). So it must be the board. Now I have to find a board that fits RM1303.
Regarding the AC, does the Carrier takes advantage of the run-off hose, or do I have to do some modifications? What about a Coleman PS? It works with less amperage (around 10A). We are thinking to get a Honda EU2000W generator in case we do some dry camping and I thought with that I could cool down the unit to comfortable levels. Any thoughts?
Cheers
danesh
Hey Danesh,

Good suggestion for the Dinosaur boards. I use them exclusively when I have to replace a control board. Nice 3-year warranty and MADE IN USA!!

On the A/C, I don't believe that a Honda 2000 has the power to genetate enough starting amperage to get a unit running. That's where the problems occur. A bunch of members have the Yamaha EF2400iS and report that it WILL start and run their roof units.

Depending on the unit you choose, you may need to modify it slightly to connect it to the drain tube. It usually involves drilling a hole in the drip pan for an elbow fitting and caulking it in, then attaching the drain hose.
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Old 06-15-2007, 07:06 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lewster

On the A/C, I don't believe that a Honda 2000 has the power to genetate enough starting amperage to get a unit running. That's where the problems occur. A bunch of members have the Yamaha EF2400iS and report that it WILL start and run their roof units.
Our Honda 2000 will not start the roof A/C on our coach. It will handily run everything else, most of it at the same time, but the initial load of the compressor startup is too much for it. If you try to use the 2000 this way, it will ruin the compressor.
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Old 06-15-2007, 10:11 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danesh
Thanks Lewster:
I did the test and it got very cold(the main compartment got to 32 degrees). So it must be the board. Now I have to find a board that fits RM1303.
Regarding the AC, does the Carrier takes advantage of the run-off hose, or do I have to do some modifications? What about a Coleman PS? It works with less amperage (around 10A). We are thinking to get a Honda EU2000W generator in case we do some dry camping and I thought with that I could cool down the unit to comfortable levels. Any thoughts?
Cheers
danesh

The new Carrier AC's do not need a drain hose.

The amount of current that any AC draws is a function of it's BTU rating.

You can get an AC that draws 5 amps, but it wouldn't begin to cool the interior of a car.

A Honda 2000 won't even start a proper sized AC for your trailer.

Andy
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