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Old 06-26-2009, 10:06 AM   #1
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Base Camp Air Conditioning to a Vintage

On to my next big project of getting the 1947 Curtis Wright Air Conditioned. I want the AC unit hidden and functional. I saw a picture of a Base Camp with an AC unit located up front under the counter. It looked like a reasonably priced unit and was located in a place I could copy. Can anyone tell, with some pictures, me how the AC is vented and installed. Not to many Base Camps around here to look at. Thanks.
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Old 06-26-2009, 11:17 AM   #2
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Robin,

I had once considered this for my old 56 caravanner. Looks like you could do it reasonably. I still like the idea of a split unit or Dometic under bunk unit for mine, but maybe depending on how your's goes it could sway me.

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Old 06-26-2009, 12:00 PM   #3
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Its the vent grills

I like those too. I think it is Uve that did it but had to use a side screen vent. I don't want to change the smooth curve of the Curtis' side...I'm looking at a bottom louver type vent....I'm up for any ideas......
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Old 06-26-2009, 12:17 PM   #4
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I've seen a Quicksilver popup with a side exhaust air conditioner mounted at floor level. Their site isn't very helpful. But I found this site mentioning the AC being a 6000 BTU window unit. Might give you a starting point about where to think...

Quicksilvers are all-aluminum with aluminum floors too!
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Old 06-26-2009, 01:15 PM   #5
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Great topic . . .

I have been wrestling w/this issue myself, thought I'd found the answer w/this:
http://www.dometic.com/FileOrganizer...wered-HVAC.pdf

AAP - Providing Power, Comfort and Control Systems for Motorcoaches, Trucks, Specialty Vehicles, Trailers and Other Demanding Applications Worldwide

. . . until I found out how much. Anyway if cost wasn't a consideration this is what I'd love to use. It's very similar to the "mini-splits" except you're not adding almost 100lbs to your tongue and the unit can be concealed in cabinetry . . . good luck w/your project.
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Old 06-26-2009, 01:28 PM   #6
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I checked into this place. Expensive though Clains it only pulls 7 amps of 120vac

Danhard Inc.-Automotive air conditioning manufacturer since 1963.Specialty vehicle,115 volt and aftermarket systems
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Old 06-26-2009, 05:56 PM   #7
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What else?

Thanks for the info.....I will check them out and report back.. This afternoon I checked with the local Airstream dealer on the Base Camp.. He had one in stock but it would not help?????the AC was top mounted. HuHHHHH? I went down to look. WHAT HE WAS SURE TO BE THE TOP MOUNTED ac WAS THE MAXIFAN. YES! HE SELLS 'EM.
Whoops...I got so excited I went all caps.
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Old 06-27-2009, 10:34 AM   #8
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TrailManor used to mount a std window AC in the cabinetry. Nothing fancy. It vented out a louver on the side. Now they have gone to roof mounts.

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Old 06-27-2009, 08:07 PM   #9
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My current plan is to use a window unit and vent it out the bottom through a manual operated door.
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Old 06-27-2009, 09:31 PM   #10
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Why not use an inexpensive 110v window unit (you can even get them with remote control), and build a fancy vented cover for the outside?
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Old 10-03-2009, 11:15 PM   #11
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Back at it....

After looking at, and discussing with the company, the AAP units won't work for me. My locations are limited and the curved skins ....front and rear....are posing a problem with building a louvered AC exhaust air panel. I seem to be able to build such a panel on the flat sides....and that limits the inside locations.

So, I think a window unit like you all mentioned above might work. Question....do I have to build a plenum inside to mount the AC so that I can isolate and direct the hot air outside thru a louvered side panel? Any suggestions as to a fabricator (hot rod builder) who can make up a louvered aluminum panel? Does Airstream factory store sell something?

Any ideas?
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Old 10-04-2009, 12:49 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Melody Ranch View Post
After looking at, and discussing with the company, the AAP units won't work for me. My locations are limited and the curved skins ....front and rear....are posing a problem with building a louvered AC exhaust air panel. I seem to be able to build such a panel on the flat sides....and that limits the inside locations.

So, I think a window unit like you all mentioned above might work. Question....do I have to build a plenum inside to mount the AC so that I can isolate and direct the hot air outside thru a louvered side panel? Any suggestions as to a fabricator (hot rod builder) who can make up a louvered aluminum panel? Does Airstream factory store sell something?

Any ideas?
A foam gasket around the area the a/c unit would normally be against a window frame, a pair of roller-bearing toolbox drawer slides mounted to the a/c unit, and an access hatch-looking cover for the outside. When you need a/c, open the access hatch, slide the a/c unit out on its rollers, and turn it on.
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Old 10-04-2009, 07:37 AM   #13
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louvers

Cory (oldtrucksrul) had louvers made for his trailer by Fergie's Custom Louvers and the website is www.hotrodlouvers.com. Here is a picture of how they looked when we saw him in September.

We have several holes already cut in the sides of our trailer as you've seen and we're planning on using louvers as we'll place things in front of the holes that need venting when we arrange the interior.
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Old 10-04-2009, 08:18 AM   #14
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Great picture...

Yep! Thats what I needed Laura. Maybe Corey can send me some more pics and info. THANKS.

Terry....I have a picture of that installation from a trailer attending the Detroit Rally a couple years ago. Searching for it now.
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Old 10-04-2009, 10:35 AM   #15
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Robin, My louvers turned out real nice. I might suggest sending him a pre polished panel for him to louver, this would make it much easier to polish. I'm not sure if he'll do this or not but worth a shot.

My A/c works great and would recommend one similar, just be sure not to over do it on BTU's I think mine may be a little big. Also, be sure and find a 110volt, I overlooked this and so, I need 50a 220volt for the A/C to work, unless someone can suggest a workaround to getting 220v out af a normal 30 amp site. I'll get any pictures you need.

Cory
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Old 10-04-2009, 11:13 AM   #16
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Let me mention what we did--you might not want to do the same thing but it may open up a different line of thought that may help solve your delimma.
We store our 34' at our home under our screened porch--squeaking the roof mounted AC in under the lumber was always a challenge and an aggravation. When the original AC died at 21 years old, it gave us an opportunity to rethink air conditioning. My father and brother have been in HVAC all their working lives so they were able to help with the technical part and the actual installation.
We took a new 15,000 BTU 120V window unit and made it a split system. The air handler is in the large cabinet in the bath (mid bath). I built a small plenum and ran 4 ducts (no small challenge) to distribute the air more evenly. The return is at the ceiling in the top of the cabinet (where the hottest air is). The condensate runs out under the camper.
The outside part is mounted inside a 'garage' on the front tounge area (this model originally came with horizontal propane tanks that lived in a carved out section of the tongue--those tanks are long gone and we use a regular tanks now). The space was perfect--keeps it out of the weather and is fairly well hidden. We had to run wiring and freon lines to connect the two units under the trailer (they are secured to the frame and belly pan like the gas lines are). This part of the unit is lightweight--25 pounds maybe. I took twice that weigh off in the massive steel propane tank supports so really have a net loss in tongue weight.
This would not be a job for joe homeowner--you have to have an HVAC person involved to some degree because of the wiring and freon lines but it is doable.
The system works great and all areas of the trailer are comfortably cooled. It also gets the unit off the roof which is the main objective--trailer also looks a lot better without the unit on the roof as well.
Just remember to insulate anything that cool air travels through (plenum, ductwork, etc.) because, if not they will condensate and that moisture will cause trouble.
Hope this is helpful to you in some way.
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Old 10-05-2009, 08:42 AM   #17
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We are on the right track

Thanks Cory and Bill.....et al.

I will need the louvers regardless of the system so I will call those folks this AM. Pre polish? Great suggestion.

The modified AC is something I am exploring too. The split AAP system was expensive and I could not work out a placement of the units and connecting lines.....many variables most folks don't have.

To do over again....? Cory did it the best way...take it to Twisted Silver. A GREAT job. Wish I had done it....but then again, look at the fun I would have missed.
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Old 10-05-2009, 10:06 AM   #18
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Our business, Answer Center, has a "Server room" which overheats.

We bought a small portable air conditioner from Sams or some other big box store - brand name is "Amcor". It sits on wheels and is about 16 x 14 inches around, less than 30 inches tall. It keeps a 300+ square foot room very cool. The hot air exhausts out of a flex pipe that looks remarkably like a dryer exhaust hose. The flex pipe looks like it would fit perfectly into one of my bathroom vents.

If you're in a moderate climate, this might be something you could carry along in hot weather - and use to cool a garage or workshop when not needed for the A/S. The one we got was one of the bigger models. I've seen ones that are smaller than the one we got.

I've heard it said that home based units might not hold up well to the vibration of being carried in the trailer - but a portable could possibly go in the back of the truck.

Paula
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Old 10-05-2009, 12:44 PM   #19
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Robin, you're a gluten for punishment? Boy, it sure would be nice to say "yeah I did it all myself" when someone asks though
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Old 11-13-2009, 03:34 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aerowood View Post
My current plan is to use a window unit and vent it out the bottom through a manual operated door.
Aerowood

That will work, I plan to do the same......

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