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Old 08-18-2007, 12:21 PM   #15
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It looks like the Suburban NT-30SP has the same outside dimensions. I am putting it into a 31 1979 International coach. Does this one have to be raised up on plywood to match the external ports? I'm not sure there is 3/4" clearance on the top to fit it in there if that is the case. Can the inards of a new furnace be slid into my old shell so I get better alignment with the existing ductwork?
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Old 08-18-2007, 01:19 PM   #16
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Tony, what shall I do with his arms?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Silvertwinkie
I have to admit, when I read the title, I was thinking, boy this person is really having a tow vehicle issue and as I read on, finally realized it was a furnace.....
I thought it sounded like a line from the Sopranos but Tony's traded up to an Escalade
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Old 08-18-2007, 11:23 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wacnstac
It looks like the Suburban NT-30SP has the same outside dimensions. I am putting it into a 31 1979 International coach. Does this one have to be raised up on plywood to match the external ports? I'm not sure there is 3/4" clearance on the top to fit it in there if that is the case. Can the inards of a new furnace be slid into my old shell so I get better alignment with the existing ductwork?
Maybe.............

You have to look at teh 2 units side-by-side and be sure that the planum chamber (where the heating of the intake air takes place) fits in exactly the same place to assure that it will line up properly with the existing ducts.

Also, look into the installation manual and be sure that the duct area meets the minimum required for the new furnace. (Pi-R squared, ya know), or you have a potential overheating situation with insufficient output area to the ducts.
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Old 10-27-2007, 01:41 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wacnstac
It looks like the Suburban NT-30SP has the same outside dimensions. I am putting it into a 31 1979 International coach. Does this one have to be raised up on plywood to match the external ports? I'm not sure there is 3/4" clearance on the top to fit it in there if that is the case. Can the inards of a new furnace be slid into my old shell so I get better alignment with the existing ductwork?
You must use part of the original installation in order for the NT-30SP to fit correctly.

Airstream and a few of it's dealers have a drawing of how to make that installation.

We can FAX or e-mail a copy to you, if you wish.

Andy
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Old 10-27-2007, 04:55 PM   #19
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[quote=wacnstac]Well I thought I was going to have this problem licked. I had the furnace on my bench and found that the limit switch which is normally closed was open. I ordered a new limit switch, fan switch, and sail switch, for good measure.
Replaced them all, cleaned things up a bit and hooked up to gas (with a brand new regulator) and hooked it up to power. Then I fired it up by putting 12V on the thermostat connector pin. The fan turns on, the sail switch engages, and about 10-15 seconds later, the gas solenoid pops open (audible click) and I get a good spark from the ignitor for a good 5 seconds. ]

You know, on re-reading this thread, something bothers me. When I bench test a furnace after an overhaul, cleaning or repair, I use the pigtail that plugs into the igniter board as follows:

red to +12VDC
yellow to -12VDC

I then use a jumper between the 2 blue wires (thermostat) to turn the unit on and simulate a call for heat from the t/stat.

This is how your furnace is connected in your trailer. There is always power to the board, but it is the thermostat that acts as the on/off switch depending on it's setting and the ambient temp in the trailer.

I get the feeling that you powered the board by directly applying 12VDC to the t/stat wires. This is not recommended, as it is a control source and not a primary power port for the igniter board. It might have done strange things to the board and might have been the source of your explosion by not allowing the unit to properly purge before igniting.

If you ever have any questions about how to bench test a furnace, water heater or any other component in your trailer or MoHo, PLEASE CONTACT ME!!!

We want you around a little longer and sure don't want to be reading your obit or hear of a serious injury that wasn't necessary .
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Old 11-24-2007, 11:53 AM   #20
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Might be of interest, I had WATER get in my gas lines, must have come from the propane tanks I had filled, we worked days to figure that out..blew them out finally but ruined the regulator (water did)
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Old 11-15-2008, 10:36 PM   #21
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Sure hope someone's monitoring these theads.

I got a suburbaban NT24AMP, probrobably original 1978. I have no idea what t it but I header a rumor in can make a warm room. Sure would like to know how to turn it on. Buttons you push, clicks happen, no joy. Can anybody help????
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Old 11-15-2008, 10:38 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In View Post
You must use part of the original installation in order for the NT-30SP to fit correctly.

Airstream and a few of it's dealers have a drawing of how to make that installation.

We can FAX or e-mail a copy to you, if you wish.

Andy
Andy, would like a quote please, 832-493-5692
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