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Old 07-05-2004, 08:51 AM   #15
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Good information Tom. Thanks.
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Old 07-05-2004, 01:37 PM   #16
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Armstrong 10

Our 1975 Argosy has an Armstrong 10 on it. Does that mean it is 10000 btu? It dosn't say what the btu is anyplace that I can see. Thanks Annie
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Old 07-05-2004, 09:34 PM   #17
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Nice work TC but more info needed please

TCWilliams,

You provide helpful info here. This is the kind of thread that this forum needs more of. thanks also to Pap. I have seen other things he contributed and he is very helpful. Where is he now when we need him?

About the Armstrong,

What model is your A/C TCWilliams? I read Bay Breeze but is there a #?

OK I just found the link to your photo page and see the model number TAC-110-1. Thanks for the hide & seek hunt TC.

Do you suspect the A/C came with your unit from factory or is there evidence it was added later?

Where is the data plate located?
Did you notice any type of gasket between the unit and the roof?
Do you think one could help? and if so any ideas on fabrication of one? I do not think Vulkem alone makes much sense.

On mine the shroud is vulcum'ed to the roof. Not sure if there was once a bracket to recieve the lower section of the shroud or not. Looks pretty sloppy. I have not removed shroud as yet, and find no data plate inside the coach under the air diflector/filter cover. So I do not know what unit I have.

The thermostat shows a heating function. I wonder if all trailers used this thermostat even if not equipped with heat strip? Where would the heat strip be seen?

you also mention a service manual for the Armstrong. Where did that come from? Can you describe it for us?

TIA
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Old 07-05-2004, 09:42 PM   #18
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My '59 tradewind has an Armstrong AC unit with an Aluminum shroud. When did they swich to fiberglass (or whatever)? I haven't had a chance to run it yet. Once I get the generator working I'll fire it up.
It came with the original "owner's maintenace guide."
Paul
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Old 07-06-2004, 04:19 AM   #19
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Whew, that's a lotta questions!

Quote:
Originally Posted by roadeo
Question1) Do you suspect the A/C came with your unit from factory or is there evidence it was added later?

Q2) Where is the data plate located?

Q3) Did you notice any type of gasket between the unit and the roof?

Q4) Do you think one could help? and if so any ideas on fabrication of one? I do not think Vulkem alone makes much sense.

S1) On mine the shroud is vulkem'ed to the roof.

Q5) The thermostat shows a heating function. I wonder if all trailers used this thermostat even if not equipped with heat strip?

Q6) Where would the heat strip be seen?

Q7) You also mention a service manual for the Armstrong. Where did that come from? Can you describe it for us?
Response1)My A/C came from the factory according to the original window sticker included with the paperwork provided by the previous owner.

R2) The data plate is located on the forward section on the A/Cís roof portion. It can be seen after the shroud is removed.

R3) Yes.

R4) The original sealing material, somewhat dark in appearance, appeared to be applied in strips. Since it is still pliable, I doubt it is Vulkem. I am guessing it may be a trademarked petroleum product. Your best bet is to contact a modern RV A/C manufacturer & ask what they recommend.

My one-piece shroud is fastened to the rooftop unit. Vulkem sounds like the POís work: watertight sealing is not required at the shroud.

R5) My thermostat only has a cooling function. If you could provide the year of your Airstream, someone else may have better insight into your unit.

R6) The heat strip, if you have one, would be located in the interior portion of your unit. At least three things are possible here: A) Your thermostatís heat control function controls the gas furnace, B) Your A/C unit is a reversible heat pump, C) The thermostat is a replacement unit & nothing is hooked to the heating wires.

R7) Actually, I mentioned a Service and Trouble Shooting Guide which came with the Overlander. It is comprised of three or four pages of 8-1/2X11Ē paper folded & stapled in the middle.
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Old 06-17-2005, 04:11 PM   #20
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And for the finale

The consensus appears to be that my air conditioner was rated at 11,000 Btus. Tecumseh, the compressor's OEM, no longer makes that particular capacity, opting instead for either 10k or 12k versions.

My air conditioner quit on our last trip after a mere 38 years. I had the compressor replaced with the 12k version. The complete tale can be read at my website on this particular page.

(Google spider food: Old compressor: AJK14-215; New compressor: AK111AT-004-J7.)

Tom
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Old 06-19-2005, 11:51 AM   #21
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My armstrong AC

When I went to look at the 72 tradewind, which I ended up buying, The PO was running the (original Armstrong) ac through a small drop cord. Not good I thought but the unit was cooling. when I got it home I ended up throing away the 30A adapter as it was burned. I went to a local campground to find out what did and did not work, the AC cooled off the camper in Tucson, in July, which is no small feat. The next week I had to take it to the AS dealer to "straighten" the main door after a dumb accident on my way home from the purchase. Anyway, back from the dealer and to the campground again to further investigate what did and did'nt work. I plugged in and turned on the AC. Fifteen minutes later the compressor cycled off and never kicked back in. (I work in an automobile dealership and when customers bring back their cars and say this stopped working after you worked on (an unrelated item) it. And I am ashamed to say my first reaction was "the dealer sabotaged my AC so they can get more money!!!") When I moved the t-stat back and forth the compressor would start to work and then fade out. My second reaction was "replace with a coleman, etc!" But having found this forum I researched Armstrong and inquired a few posters (thank's guys) who had experience with these and reached the conclusion the compressor capacitor had taken a dump. I shopped around, found a capacitor, installed it and the other cap just for good measure, installed it and the compressor worked! but now the evap fan did not. A week later back at the campground to try and find out what was going on. Luckly the schematic was still on th unit so I discovered the condenser and the evap fan are in parallel so if one works, both should. With the trusty multimeter I found no voltage to the evap fan bus. pulled out the evap fan motor (thinking a bad motor) and found a uncrimped butt connector! (which was pulled loose installing the capacitor) Who ever installed the fan must have done so on a Monday morning or Friday at 4:30 but now the AC works. (I secretly apoligized to the AS dealer for my attack on their scruples) Then I had the problem condensation leaking from the inside cover...I did'nt figure this one out until we took the trailer to Goose Island state park in TX, the unit was pouring water out! As if some divine realization kicked in I pulled the drain hose out under the cover and found the drain hose was plugged. Outside I used a coathanger to rotor router it and mud and a few dauber carcasses poured out. Finally! That night - flawless... the next night- leaking again ! I then do something as a Technician have trained my self not to do.. I went out side, got on my hands and knees and blew like I have never, and my wife starts yelling "there's water flying every where in here!" and outside water is draining like a faucet out of the drain pipe. Sucess at last! Now i feel the only thing the unit needs is a partial charge of R-22 which is on the list. After all this I am dedicated to keeping the Armstrong working as I like the way the camper looks and the fact it is "industrial quality"
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Old 06-19-2005, 12:46 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 72 tradewind
As if some divine realization kicked in I pulled the drain hose out under the cover and found the drain hose was plugged. Outside I used a coathanger to rotor router it and mud and a few dauber carcasses poured out. Finally! That night - flawless... the next night- leaking again ! I then do something as a Technician have trained my self not to do.. I went out side, got on my hands and knees and blew like I have never, and my wife starts yelling "there's water flying every where in here!" and outside water is draining like a faucet out of the drain pipe. Sucess at last!

Oh gawd I love it! Next time, take a wet dry vac and some duct tape wrapped around the smallest tool and SUCK on the drain pipe!

A 50-50 solution of Clorox and water poured down a slow drain pipe will also help clean out the year's growth of black crud they all seem to get.

Congrats on getting it going again.

Tin Lizzie
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Old 06-20-2005, 12:54 AM   #23
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Great thread

I would like to find an original Armstrong A/C unit for my Caravel. Mine has been replaced with a Coleman unit. It works great but doesn't look as nice.
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Old 07-02-2005, 12:11 PM   #24
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This is the first time that I have logged in to this forum--if I'm not doing this right, I'm sure someone will correct me--my question is--I have a 70's Airstream, and a windstorm blew the shroud(cover?) off the A/C, and I never did find it--does anyone know where to find one? I don't have the model # handy, but will go to the farm and get it if necessary. BTW, it's an Armstrong, and it still cools quite good. If anyone has a source, I would appreciate it> Thanks--(a new member) Jim Adams
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Old 07-02-2005, 07:00 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Adams
This is the first time that I have logged in to this forum--if I'm not doing this right, I'm sure someone will correct me--my question is--I have a 70's Airstream, and a windstorm blew the shroud(cover?) off the A/C, and I never did find it--does anyone know where to find one? I don't have the model # handy, but will go to the farm and get it if necessary. BTW, it's an Armstrong, and it still cools quite good. If anyone has a source, I would appreciate it> Thanks--(a new member) Jim Adams
Jim,
Welcome to the forums...The shroud you are looking for is very year dependant. If you go to Inland RV's website look for part #'s 69812,69826 and 69831 you can find the differences. FWIW my Airstream is a 1975 but the AC unit is actually a 1976 model...go figure. My shroud is in fair shape, I am considering building one out of aluminum...might just last a little longer and look good.

Aaron
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Old 07-03-2005, 06:41 AM   #26
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The original shroud on my 1970 overlander had every mounting holes cracked or enlarged to many sizes bigger than the screw trying to hold it. I fixed the entire shroud by using fiberglass cloth and/or fiberglass mat with gorilla glue instead of polyester resins. Then I predrilled the holes for the mounting screws. I use tape on the outside to form the original shape and minimize the sanding after the repairs were made from the inside. Because of the extreme adhesion of the gorilla glue, it's expansion and flexibility, it worked far better then epoxies or resins. For less than $20 I have a reinforced shroud that is better than the original.

I also used the same method to fix corners and cracks that were in my bathroom and covered the entire bathroom ( tub, sink, all plastic walls and even the cloth covered seat over the mode) with "Tough Tile Tub &Tile Finish" (2 part $20 a quart).

So far at 4 outings, everybody who saw the bathroom thought I used all new material from the factory. Those materials are simply outstanding.
For those of you who were asking me the name of the material there you go.
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Old 07-08-2005, 07:44 AM   #27
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Jim Adams welcom to the forums.

There are quite a few forum threads about AC shrouds and the purchase or repair of them.

go to the search button and press it and enter shroud and see what you come up with.

Don't feel intimidated about using the forum for any question or comment you may have regarding Airstreams or related RV subject matter.

Just jump in and it will all fall into place, many of us here are not computer geeks and don't particularly wish to be. So worry not.



Flicka
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Old 07-08-2005, 08:48 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FrenchBern
I fixed the entire shroud by using fiberglass cloth and/or fiberglass mat with gorilla glue instead of polyester resins. Then I predrilled the holes for the mounting screws. I use tape on the outside to form the original shape and minimize the sanding after the repairs were made from the inside. Because of the extreme adhesion of the gorilla glue, it's expansion and flexibility, it worked far better then epoxies or resins. For less than $20 I have a reinforced shroud that is better than the original.
I am looking forward to applying this fix to my shroud tonight. Where is the best place to get the fiberglass cloth and/or mat? Auto parts or hardware store?

What type of tape did you use on the outside? Red Green - Duct Tape? Or more of a furnace tape?
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