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Old 12-11-2004, 01:56 PM   #15
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looks like those will do the trick!

john
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Old 12-12-2004, 01:31 PM   #16
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And (hopefully) in conclusion

Nice day here today in Alabama - mid fifties & clear. Perfect weather for a roof repair.

The sixteen screws holding the unit to the roof all came out with vice-grips without too much trouble. Most of them had to break loose, so I figured those were still sealing. If you look carefully at the picture below, you can see rust on the shanks of the screws in the puddle zone. Those particular screws did not put up much of a fight coming out.

Whatever putty Airstream used to seal between the roof & the unit was still pliable. After removing the screws, I ran a putty knife around the sealing surfaces. The putty had de-bonded only in the “puddle zone” where the screws had loosened. And it was only between the putty & the unit, not the roof & the putty.

Instead of removing the putty, I cleaned everything & injected Vulkem between the sealing surfaces & into anywhere I thought water might go. Even with the screws removed, the unit would not lift up high enough to do a good job removing all the putty, so it was left in place. Also, it appears to me that running a bead of Vulkem would have been easier for the factory to originally do. Since they chose putty, I decided they may have been considering some aspect I have overlooked.

The original screws were 10X1/2 pan head sheet metal screws. All I could find locally in stainless steel were 10X3/4, but the extra 1/4 inch won’t hurt anything.

The shroud was re-installed with 8X1/2 pan head stainless steel sheet metal screws.

I feel pretty good about this repair solving my leak problem. If nothing else it means Rluhr will have to wait until another rally to get another batch of my fried chicken!

Tom
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Old 12-12-2004, 02:11 PM   #17
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Tom,

Sounds like a good repair that should last for another 30 years!

Are you going to leak test it with the garden hose, or wait for the rains?
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Old 12-12-2004, 02:35 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thenewkid64
...Are you going to leak test it with the garden hose, or wait for the rains?
Test it ?!?! Why would it leak after all that effort?

I don't know; It's kind of like looking at the bulletin board after a test you think you did really good on. Too often I used to see a grade I did not like too much.

Though with Vulkem's cure time, I have a lot of time to make up my mind.

Update: It's been about a month with occasional rain except for yesterday when it poured AND there were tornado warnings out due to the wind. This morning I checked the interior, and everything was dry. I believe I will declare success & move on.

Tom
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Old 08-07-2005, 07:05 PM   #19
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In post #13 I said that I would post my findings about the dreaded "AC sag"

Well this is what I uncovered. There are two extra supports that run along the roof line from about the galley to the bath. These are just out board from the two main ribs that run down the center axis of the trailer. (I will try to up load photos to my album under damage found.) The two supports just under the compressor section (aft on the AC unit) have poped out rivets. Also, two 4 foot sections of main roof brace are cracked almost in half. Plus all but one rivet poped out. The only way I see to fix this is by removing the cieling skin and getting in at the poped out rivets and broken braces.
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Old 09-09-2012, 07:23 PM   #20
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Make No Changes, Only Improvements

My Overlander has been out on the road for eight years & 35,000 miles now, and we're now starting to experience the new stuff installed during the refurbishment wearing out.

There's one, original, from-the-day-it-was-new problem I never addressed until now that has now been fixed - the Bay Breeze sweating on one of the single beds. For some reason I lived with it; no longer - It was fixed this last weekend.

The Factory did not install any stringers between the ribs between which the A/C is mounted. The unit is mounted considerably closer to the FWD rib than the aft. Settling occurred which left the unit kicked-back looking forward. As a consequence, all the cold condensate collected aft could not drain easily, and allowed sweat to build up.

There is no easy remedy to the lack of support not incorportated in 1967.

Jump forward to this weekend, and my bubble-level tells me the unit leans toward the street-side by a quarter-bubble, and aft by a quarter-bubble.



Airstream's placement of one of the condensate drain-tubes on the curb side (LH in the image) of the unit was obviously destined to remain dry. Moving the drain to the aft part of the unit appeared to be in order. Drilling the pilot hole afforded excitment.



I had to wait through almost two cups of condensate before the next step.

The curb-side fitting was relocated, and new copper fitted & painted to drain the works.



Nothing like a good improvement on sixties technology.

Tom
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