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Old 12-15-2017, 09:25 AM   #1
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Anyone Insulate their Furnace Ducts

Has anyone tried to wrap their furnace ducts with insulation or replace them with 4" insulated furnace ducts?

The only issue I see looking at 4" insulated flexible ducting is the overall width can be over 8" which may be too tight for under cabinet routing.

Could Reflectix be cut and wrapped around the existing ducts? It would allow R4 insulating. Wondering if a tube could be made out of Reflextix and then slide over existing ducts. It might not be flexible enough.

Would doing this improve the heating out of the furnace to be worth the effort?

Kelvin
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Old 12-15-2017, 09:30 AM   #2
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You would risk loosing heat for the water pipes.
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Old 12-15-2017, 09:50 AM   #3
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I could leave the ducting under the fridge and the shower intact. I have a about a 7 ft run under my street twin bed to a vent located by the night stand where there are no pipes. The run from furnace to the fridge area has no pipes.

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Old 12-15-2017, 10:09 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KJRitchie View Post
Has anyone tried to wrap their furnace ducts with insulation or replace them with 4" insulated furnace ducts?

Would doing this improve the heating out of the furnace to be worth the effort?
Considering that the waste heat lost inside the cabinets goes toward keeping the plumbing warm and unfrozen, you might want to rethink that insulation.

Simple fact, all of the ducting is inside the trailer already. Whether it comes out the end of the duct or comes out through the sides of the ducts, the heat still ends up inside the trailer and still does some good.

So my vote would be "No, it's not worth the effort."
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Old 12-15-2017, 10:32 AM   #5
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If the thought is to “efficiency”, the ducting runs aren’t really a source of loss so much as would be trailer air infiltration as the real problem. IOW, areas not evenly warned are more a matter of air circulation than ducting losses.

Even on a long trailer like mine where the furnace duct runs are starboard and all plumbing to port, the runs are a few feet. The exceptions are those which dive under the floor to heat tanks, and re-emerge at the outlet. Maybe 12’.

If there’s decent pressure at the outlets I’d suggest best to leave alone. Sure, examine connections easily accessed, but that’s all I’d do.

Closely examine door seal. It may be uneven. As well, any skin penetrations, as your labor to better insulate a “trunk” or at the sewer outlets is the sort of work a factory would wish to avoid. Do an inventory of cabinet interiors along the floor, and bathroom fixtures. Does the bed lift? These areas deserve your attention.

Vinyl skirting and interior Lexan storm windows are the path to cutting losses from the exterior. Decide first about storage for same.
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Old 12-16-2017, 11:40 AM   #6
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Lost heat inside is good. I'd leave it alone.
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Old 12-16-2017, 01:20 PM   #7
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The major source of heat loss is the single glazed windows. I found when camping in minus 10 windchill taping clear bubble wrap used for packing material to the inside of the windows made a huge difference in the maintenance of inside temperature
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Old 12-16-2017, 01:23 PM   #8
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The only ducting I will insulate will be the tanks ducting....if I ever drop the belly sheeting.
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Old 12-16-2017, 01:32 PM   #9
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When I did my solar install I considered such insulation. As many others already chimed in, it didn't make sense, as any heat loss that happens still goes into heating the trailer.

I tightened up connections etc, and repaired holes that were made during installation, ti make sure airflow got to the rear of the AS. I was shocked at the shoddy work and damage to my ducts.....
The tightening and repair made a huge difference in air flow to the rear.
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Old 12-16-2017, 02:28 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KJRitchie View Post
Has anyone tried to wrap their furnace ducts with insulation or replace them with 4" insulated furnace ducts?

The only issue I see looking at 4" insulated flexible ducting is the overall width can be over 8" which may be too tight for under cabinet routing.

Could Reflectix be cut and wrapped around the existing ducts? It would allow R4 insulating. Wondering if a tube could be made out of Reflextix and then slide over existing ducts. It might not be flexible enough.

Would doing this improve the heating out of the furnace to be worth the effort?

Kelvin
I have a 2004, 30 foot classic and the bedroom located in the back of the trailer did not get much heat because of the distance the air had to travel and the twists and turns of the ribbed duct work. Years ago I straightened out the duct work,I inserted a smooth sheet metal duct where it was easy to do and insulated the ducts as much as I could. The heat flow to the bedroom has since then been much better and pretty much all the water pipes were also insulated as a result.
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Old 12-17-2017, 02:03 PM   #11
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I have a 2004, 30 foot classic and the bedroom located in the back of the trailer did not get much heat because of the distance the air had to travel and the twists and turns of the ribbed duct work. Years ago I straightened out the duct work,I inserted a smooth sheet metal duct where it was easy to do and insulated the ducts as much as I could. The heat flow to the bedroom has since then been much better and pretty much all the water pipes were also insulated as a result.
Wolf146
I just installed an addition bedroom duct and closed off one of the living room ducts. HUGE, improvement.
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Old 12-17-2017, 05:36 PM   #12
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What I did was remove the face plate over the heat vent, pull out the excess ducting, and cut it off. It was about three or four feet of extra ducting, making a made a big difference in the air flow.
Warning, the ducting was a lot tougher than I thought it would, needed to get a bigger wire cutter.
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