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Old 07-11-2010, 11:11 PM   #15
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Old 07-11-2010, 11:28 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by bryanl View Post
The Kill-a-Watt is a great way to check voltage and power draw (only $25, too). My guess is that it had problems with the initial surge or the power factor of the A/C. You could still use it to see the voltage inside with the A/C running.
Hi, that is what I do now; I watch my Kill-A-Watt, inside of my trailer, to monitor voltage.


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Old 07-12-2010, 06:02 AM   #17
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Just a quick note.

All RV air conditioner/heat pumps are rated to drop the air temperature from the evaporator into the coach at 20* below the AMBIENT air (actually 18*-22*) measured at the RETURN for that unit.

As the A/C works, it continually cools the inside ambient air and the temps continue to drop until the thermostat is satisfied.
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Old 07-12-2010, 09:38 AM   #18
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Gensets can be interesting. I have an Onan 2800 watt microlite which runs an 13k BTU A/C even at altitude along with accessories. But then I have had a Onan 3000i fault on the same A/C but only when used with 50' of ten gauge extension cord.

The problems appear to be the initial compressor surge which can be several times the steady load, the power factor, and altitude.

The double Honda 2000i setup has worked well for keeping the A/C going on hot afternoons. The 3000i is iffy. Reports I have heard about the Yamaha 2400 are mixed. A Boliy 3k seems to have done well on this test at Unionville recently.

What I see is that 3kw genset capability is marginal and 4kw is needed for reliable service. The mechanical gensets like the Onans have mechanical mass to help with the initial surge while the inverter types may or may not have needed surge capabilities.

Batteries need a proper vented battery box, even AGM's (although many sidestep code with these). Repositioning them runs into many interesting problems. As you can see from Ricky's links, a lot of creative energy has gone in to adding gensets to trailers. (I've got an Overlander with a genset compartment mod but fuel supply and battery leads were obvious problems to the installer).

re: "As the A/C works, it continually cools the inside ambient air and the temps continue to drop until the thermostat is satisfied. " -- but they only have so much capability and when heat gain through walls and windows matches A/C capability, the temperature will drop no further. If your RV A/C can hold 20 degrees colder inside than outside on a hot day, it is doing pretty good relative to the experience of most of those of my acquaintance.
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Old 05-28-2016, 07:10 AM   #19
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Found this older thread and thought to add a comparison. I have a 11K Dometic that draws 12.6 amps. Ironically I have a vacuum sweeper that pulls 14 amps. I have noticed that the vacuum cord gets warm to the touch and the directions say to make sure that when vacuuming, have the cord fully extended- not rolled up. My vac has not tripped breakers. Though this thread certainly does not apply to those with 50 amp systems, the 30 amp peeps might still be wondering about this. It is true that you have to consider what model of AC you have and its current draw.
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Old 05-28-2016, 07:24 AM   #20
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rodsterinfl FYI there is a newer thread with a good discussion of similar issues. Is 30 Amp Really Needed:

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