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Old 08-14-2007, 11:39 AM   #15
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Ours sometimes does the same thing. The tech at the dealers told us to run the fan on HIGH not AUTO to enable the A/C something-or-other to cycle. Not sure what that means, but I think when the A/C gets the temp right and shuts off, having the fan going continuously allows the unit to cool itself. Might also work on LOW as same theory would apply. Have not tested this theory.
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Old 08-14-2007, 05:32 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grantb4
Ours sometimes does the same thing. The tech at the dealers told us to run the fan on HIGH not AUTO to enable the A/C something-or-other to cycle. Not sure what that means, but I think when the A/C gets the temp right and shuts off, having the fan going continuously allows the unit to cool itself. Might also work on LOW as same theory would apply. Have not tested this theory.
In this case with the fan running continuously there will be some airflow through the outside components and once the compressor cycles off (assuming you can reach set point on the thermostat), the compressor and other components might get cooled down which may mean an easier start when the compressor is cycled back on since a hot compressor requires more voltage than a cool one. This might be a good solution if you are popping a breaker at start time when the fan and compressor cycle very close together.

If you are failing during run time (as I think the original post noted), this technique will not help you one bit. The issue as noted might be a failing breaker, a low voltage condition creating excess heat, a leak in the system, or possibly a dirty evaporator coils or slow turning fan which can cause high head pressure in the compressor, thus triggering a trip in the circuit. Running the fan on low will not help since in most cases the best efficiency may come from running the fan on high, which will pump more air through the evaporator coils, potentially allowing you to reach set point quicker thus shutting down the compressor sooner.

Years ago I decided to run my A/C while my trailer was in the drive. Not having a 30 amp hookup I used a 15 amp adapter to allow the trailer to plug into the available power in my garage. I knew that the A/C unit would pull close to 15 amps with the fan on high speed, so I turned the fan on low, thus lowering the amp requirement. What I didn't realize was that by turning the fan on low, the compressor had to run much longer to keep the trailer cool. That 15 amp adapter was generating heat. If I had run the fan on high, the compressor would have cycled which would have allowed that adapter to cool down between compressor cycles. Instead the long run times with the fan on low got the adapter so hot, that it actually started to melt down. Thankfully I caught it before any problems occurred (other than a melted down adapter). So an important lesson was learned.


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Old 08-28-2007, 11:04 AM   #17
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Question A New Problem with My AC

Rather than start a new thread, this one seems to be ready made for my ac problem which appeared this morning.

After making my coffee in the microwave I flipped the mw/ac switch back to the ac position and instead of the ac coming back on after a few seconds (which it always has), it remained silent. When I realized that it wasn't coming on, I took a look at the panel (this is a penguin unit btw) and the panel lights were on, including the red low voltage indicator (however my plug in voltmeter was in the green - which it rarely is). I cycled the mw/ac switch again and the lights were all green and the ac fan started blowing, but after 10 minutes the compressor still hadn't come on again. I moved the thermostat all the way to cold and it still didn't come on. I then switched the ac to off, cycled the mw/ac switch once more, then switched the ac to on and after a few minutes the compressor started up.

Anyone have a guess about what sort of problem (if any) I have developing?
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Old 08-29-2007, 08:16 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crusty
I cycled the mw/ac switch again and the lights were all green and the ac fan started blowing, but after 10 minutes the compressor still hadn't come on again. I moved the thermostat all the way to cold and it still didn't come on. I then switched the ac to off, cycled the mw/ac switch once more, then switched the ac to on and after a few minutes the compressor started up.

Anyone have a guess about what sort of problem (if any) I have developing?
Have a look at the AC On But Not Cool thread. At the end of it I described the replacement of the start cap which worked for us. You can at least diagnose the problem by undoing about 6 screws. Mine was obvious -- black smoke/soot. That one was about $30 to fix (thanks to advice from lewster and others!). YMMV
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