i have ordered a new a/c for my 78 --31 foot unit and will e hanging it out this coming weekend. i am trying to round up all the materials since this place i will be working on it is somewhat isolated. what is the best way to fill the original unit's holes??? and how important is it to, if available(?), use the internal condensate drain line? i would like to continue to use the wall thermostate and it has four wires --- will this function for my new unit???
thanks again for the information. tuna
I recently went through a bit of a struggle with Ac's- My old unit- it was a factory in a 67 Safari had not worked for several years. I finally decided to have a new unit installed. My local RV park has a fairly decent Service dept. ( I thought)so I took it there- they said sure, it would be a job but they could get it done. Mistake #1- I didn't ask if they had done this before- Iknow now that they had not.
I went back in 3 days and they had a regular Carrier Air V on top- it stuck out like a sore thumb- too tall. they had also scratched both sides with their extension cords !!!. I asked where they had run the condensation line and got the proverbial blank stare. Mistake #2- I didn't tell them I didn't want the condensation to run off the side.
After a lengthy discussion as to the polish damage and in general botched job I paid a reduced price and got out of there. I started researching fixes for the condensation and e-mailed Lou Patterson- he was very helpfull but due to some redesign changes in the new AirV we couldn't fix ( at least I couldn't) the condensation issue. Also I could not live with the appearance.
I decided to bite the bullet and ordered an air V Low Profile from camping world it was at my door in 3 days . I then removed the 3 hour old Carrier regular from the roof and found even more ham fisted installation errors. they had not even screwed the wood frame in place merely used the clamping action of the upper and lower unit to hold it there- no wonder I didn't have any structural rigidity and was getting deflection. I fixed this and installed the LPro- It has an internal condensation drain and it works great.
I most higly reccommend the Carrier Lp it is less than 1/2 the height of the regular and is quiter to boot. I wish I had gotten the thermostat but this was getting a bit pricey- If anyone wants an Carrier Air V regular unit with less than 3 hours of run time PM me and you will get a deal- I'm in Springfield Ill.
All the best,
Andy
Camping World told me it would cost $700.00 just to fabricate a new "pan" for an Airstream in order to install a new Coleman AC. I called Inland RV for suggestions and they said to get a Carrier. I called a little RV shop in Stillwater, Oklahoma, and the owner said he had installed several Carriers on AS's. Soooo I took the Argosy up to him and have had the Carrier for over a year with no leaks and no problems. I got the 13,500 with the heat strip for my 24ft Argosy. It will freeze you out even here in Oklahoma. We have had temps over 100 for most of the Summer and I have had no problems. I agree with what has been said here before, Camping World will not work on my Argosy. They would not even put in my new gas/elect water heater. Said it would take special wiring, etc...... My little RV shop had it in in a day and it works perfectly on electricity with no problems.
I have since learned there is little wrong with my Armstrong, much wrong with my outbuilding electrical service. Plugged into a state park 30 amp service it froze us out of the unit. I have replaced the 120V > 24 V transformer, might need a relay. Thanks, all. I'll keep the ol'dependable if my electrician can get me some juice & I can figure out rewiring the control box up top
well i ended up with a dometic unit due to a mix up in the delivery. i picked up a 15000 btu unit with the controls mounted on the unit. the armstrong 14 was somewhat of a pain to remove since the screws were puddied over, but the spacing was accurate so we just measured the distance and found each screw fairly easy. and there was about 40 screws! we installed the wood support braces and screwed them in place from inside the trailer. we used a sky jack to raise and lower the units. the four mounting screws really pulled the new unit down and the tight fit into the 14" x 14" hole prevents any movement in the new unit. thanks for all the help and comments prior to the install -- i appreciate everyone's help! thanks, tuna
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