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Old 05-27-2005, 09:47 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by Over59
Do these swamp coolers work when it's hot and humid or only for "dry" heat.
59----swamp coolers,{evaporative coolers} will only work in low humity conditions. They work on the principle of evaporation which creates the cooling.. The effect is much like getting out of a swimming pool when it's windy. Another difference , evap cooler are designed to displace air in a room rather than recirculate it like refridgerated ac does. Typically a evap. cooler is mounted so air is entering a room from outside then exiting across the room though a window or opening. Rather than being sized by BTU's they are sized by cubic feet per minute. The idea being that you displace the air in the room every few minutes with air that has been cooled by evaporation. Even a cloudy day will make a noticeable difference in their effect. Refridgerated air circulates the air, removes the heat and transfers or exchanges it to the outside. When reversed it become a heat pump and transfers the heat inside. The evap cooler needs a water supply but little electric as as small water pump and fan are all that's needed for them to work where Refridg. air uses a larger more powerful motor to run a compressor plus a fan motor. The last feew weeks here in northern NM the humity has been 8-10 percent and the Evap coolers really work well when it's like this.----Pieman
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Old 05-27-2005, 09:50 AM   #16
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Steve Heywood.

A swamp cooler is Ok, but only in "very dry heat".

Should someone us it fairly often when the humidity is higher, a musty moldy smell will shortly take over.

The huge problem, is that the smell will take a long time to fade away.

They have also been know to cause a mold build up behind the furniture.

Andy
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Old 05-27-2005, 10:28 AM   #17
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Andy,

I am interested that you say spraying the outside with water during hot weather will cause hundreds of leaks to develop. Do you have an idea about what the mechanism is for this, i.e. why it happens?
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Old 05-27-2005, 10:31 AM   #18
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Swamp Box

Swamp boxes only work in low humidity. In Arizona in August think mold.

I contracted Legionella from a swmp box and almost went to the great

campground in the sky.

Only men, old or with weakened immune systems are vulnerable.

I would not recommend a warm pool of water to breed pathogens for anyone.
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Old 05-27-2005, 10:34 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by jcanavera
Based on the performance of my 13.5 Penguin in my 27' '01 Safari, you are doing as good as you can. According to my correspondance with Dometic if the air temp drop from input to output is between 18-25 degrees, your unit is doing the best it can. In your case your trailer is 3 feet longer than mine was. I could only hold 85 on a 100 degree day in full sun. That's why I ordered the optional 15K Penguin for my 30' Classic.

You just have too much heat gain and volume for that unit too handle. Airstream had known for some time that those 13.5K units were marginal under extreme conditions. I'm sure they had some input to Dometic in the development of that 15K unit.

Jack
That's pretty much what I guessed. Last night before bed I checked and the AC was putting out 45 degree air in a 75 degree trailer. I'm getting 25-30 degrees below interior temperature which indicates my AC is healthy.

So how does your 15K Penguin do with your larger trailer? A larger AC and/or an evap cooler is on my list of inprovements. I spend a lot of time out west in low humidity without hookups so the evap is higher up the list than a new-larger AC.
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Old 05-27-2005, 10:55 AM   #20
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Bobechs

There are many corrosive chemicals in water that very rapidly attacks aluminum.

Therefore those chemicals are an "acid".

Depending on how bad the water is, it can create those holes in a matter of a couple weeks, or less.

If you have an older trailer that has a clear coat finish, that is more than 3 to 4 years old, the same thing happens, as that old paint cracks and lets the water in. Those cracks are so small the eye cannot see them.



Andy
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Old 05-27-2005, 11:02 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Heywood
So how does your 15K Penguin do with your larger trailer? A larger AC and/or an evap cooler is on my list of inprovements. I spend a lot of time out west in low humidity without hookups so the evap is higher up the list than a new-larger AC.
So far so good. This is our second summer with the Classic and we haven't hit the 100 degree mark yet. This one has the heat pump capability so in all honesty we've probably used that side more than we have the A/C side. I would probably tell anyone with a unit 27' and up who gets into 90+ temperatures to use this size. Because of the heat pump I only used one 30 lb. tank of propane in my first year of ownership.

Jack
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Old 05-27-2005, 01:01 PM   #22
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Ok I gotta know. Not that I do the water on the roof for cooling, but I have washed the Safari when it's been sunny (about 75 degrees out). Are you saying that I can damage the coach by doing this Andy? At first I was thinking the extreme temp changes in the metal could pop a rivet, but I'm totally floored by the notion that water can put holes in the roof....can you share with me how and why? I understand acid rain and such, but normal tap water that can one drinks can do this too?

On a side note, I've had our 15k unit running in 95 degree temps with fair to high humid in the direct sun and though the unit is only 25', you could use the coach to hang meat in it. The unit also has the heat pump and like Jack, it's a great feature that saves LP, particularly when all fossil fuels cost your first born!
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Old 05-27-2005, 01:53 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Silvertwinkie
Ok I gotta know. Not that I do the water on the roof for cooling, but I have washed the Safari when it's been sunny (about 75 degrees out). Are you saying that I can damage the coach by doing this Andy? At first I was thinking the extreme temp changes in the metal could pop a rivet, but I'm totally floored by the notion that water can put holes in the roof....can you share with me how and why? I understand acid rain and such, but normal tap water that can one drinks can do this too?
I think there are two sides to this Eric. First there is a lot of difference in water flowing full time than the washing you and I do. Secondly it probably has a lot to do with the PH content of the water and its source. If you are pulling from a well, god knows what that content its. While municipal systems usually are in much tighter control. I know that our water company here in St. Louis County does measure PH and reports on the annually to the customer base.

I guess the answer is more of a situation when constant water is flowing, problems may occur, dependent upon the source of the water supply.

Jack
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Old 05-27-2005, 01:58 PM   #24
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Silvertwinkie

There is a huge difference between washing a trailer as to flooding the roof with water 10 to 11 hours per day, for the entire desert summer month, like 4 to 5 months.

Jack explained it in more detail than I did.

Wash it to your hearts conent. You could never use that much water on it. Plus if you wash it, the water is gone in a few minutes.

Andy
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Old 05-27-2005, 03:00 PM   #25
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Ah...I see....I was starting to worry....and just to show the depth of my Airstreamitus, I also have hooked my in line filter to the hose when I wash. I let it run for a few minutes to run through and odds and ends, but I was thinking that since the filter takes out heavy metals, chorine and other nasty things, that in addition to our muni water system that does the same thing, this couldn't hurt? True or False?

Thanks for the clarification on the subject.
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Old 05-27-2005, 03:28 PM   #26
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Silvertwinkie

Water filters do not reduce "hardness".

It is those chemicals that cause the problems.

So does an external water filter help?

Not really.

Andy
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Old 05-27-2005, 03:35 PM   #27
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Ok, great...then I can be excessive compulsive eleswhere.
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Old 05-27-2005, 03:40 PM   #28
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Yeah man..........go.

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