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Old 06-13-2008, 03:33 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by DEITZ645 View Post
Be careful! I don't think the AC units use a cable for phones. A 4-wire cable meant for a phone is a direct pin reversal of the wires. On one jack end the wires will be RED, YELLOW, BLACK, GREEN and GREEN, BLACK, YELLOW, RED on the other end. I think the AC units use a straight through cable RED, YELLOW, BLACK, GREEN on both jack ends.
A STANDARD PHONE CABLE WILL NOT WORK!!!!

Dometic uses their own version of a phone cable and unless you have an RJ-11 connector tool, don't waste your $$$$ on a new cable. Basically, you have to either use a cable purchased from Dometic or reverse one of the RJ-11 jacks on the cable for it to work properly.
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Old 06-13-2008, 03:38 PM   #16
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BE SURE TO USE ONLY A DOMETIC SUPPLIED CORD. This is Important. There is not a substitute.
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Old 06-13-2008, 03:50 PM   #17
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I am of no use in helping out here, but I wanted to say "good show" to all those who are willing, able and CLEAR with instructions to help remedy a problem. You make the forum what it is. Karma all around!
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Old 06-14-2008, 07:04 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lewster View Post
A STANDARD PHONE CABLE WILL NOT WORK!!!!

Dometic uses their own version of a phone cable and unless you have an RJ-11 connector tool, don't waste your $$$$ on a new cable. Basically, you have to either use a cable purchased from Dometic or reverse one of the RJ-11 jacks on the cable for it to work properly.
I got 'em in abundance, RJ-11, RJ-45, whatever you need and the crimpers. I used to do network cabling in my previous "life". I was a medical lab tech who migrated to the I.T. shop and have been there ever since, 22 years...YIKES! I don't know if that is a good or a bad thing.

TTAM,
Any update??? Inquiring minds want to know.
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Old 06-16-2008, 12:40 AM   #19
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I can't find a diagram of a Dometic com cable, but when you have both plugs side-by-side with the little plug locks facing you, the wiring should be the same color pattern....ie: red-yellow-green-black (or whatever is there) on BOTH plugs, not the reverse like standard phone cable has.
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Old 06-17-2008, 10:12 AM   #20
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I'll be heading to the camper tonight to work it - I have an RJ11 crimper and I'm going to keep an eye on the orientation - will make a new plug if I need to. Had trouble finding a phone cord that has FOUR wires!

I'll send out a progress report tonight - either I'll be nice 'n cool or sweating bullets.
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Old 06-17-2008, 05:38 PM   #21
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Two words - it's working!!!

Just don't ask me if I know exactly why. Here's what I did: I took the four screws off holding the cowling, and took the cowling down. The tech at Bates lied to me - you can't get to the electronics from inside. Not having a ladder (because I didn't think I needed one), I decided to try replacing the cable, thinking I was going to have a nice enjoyable sleep in 86 degree weather tonight.

Okay side note: the pins on the cable between the tstat and the coupling under the cowling do NOT cross. Neither do phone cables, it seems. I was prepared to snip off a plug and put a new one on, but didn't need to. BUT I will say to everyone that you obviously should check both your cables and the phone cables you're patching with, just to make sure. Phone lines are, after all, AC current so it doesn't matter which way the cables face.

So the saga continues. I plug in the new patch cord, turn the tstat on, and still get "EE". In frustration, I turn the unit off, hold down mode/zone, and turn it on. STILL "FF", then I take my fingers off the buttons, STILL "EE". So I try once again, this time keeping my fingers on the buttons for a good 10 seconds before taking them away. Guess what? Holding those buttons for an extended period of time must reset the tstat, because it showed a blank screen with "zone 1" lit. Hit 'mode', and everything lights up and it's ready to go.

So my conclusion is that I didn't hold down the buttons long enough, even though the "FF" shows when you hold both buttons in for a few seconds. Be patient (unlike me), and hold those suckers down for a bit!

There still might be a problem, but for the moment I'm typing in conditioned air. Coolness! I feel in control of my place in the world, for a change.

I can't tell you-all how much I appreciate your support. This site rocks!
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Old 06-17-2008, 05:58 PM   #22
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Pardon the pun, bit very cool . Glad you are sitting in cool comfort.
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Old 06-17-2008, 06:17 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ttam View Post
Two words - it's working!!!

Just don't ask me if I know exactly why. Here's what I did: I took the four screws off holding the cowling, and took the cowling down. The tech at Bates lied to me - you can't get to the electronics from inside. Not having a ladder (because I didn't think I needed one), I decided to try replacing the cable, thinking I was going to have a nice enjoyable sleep in 86 degree weather tonight.

Okay side note: the pins on the cable between the tstat and the coupling under the cowling do NOT cross. Neither do phone cables, it seems. I was prepared to snip off a plug and put a new one on, but didn't need to. BUT I will say to everyone that you obviously should check both your cables and the phone cables you're patching with, just to make sure. Phone lines are, after all, AC current so it doesn't matter which way the cables face.

So the saga continues. I plug in the new patch cord, turn the tstat on, and still get "EE". In frustration, I turn the unit off, hold down mode/zone, and turn it on. STILL "FF", then I take my fingers off the buttons, STILL "EE". So I try once again, this time keeping my fingers on the buttons for a good 10 seconds before taking them away. Guess what? Holding those buttons for an extended period of time must reset the tstat, because it showed a blank screen with "zone 1" lit. Hit 'mode', and everything lights up and it's ready to go.

So my conclusion is that I didn't hold down the buttons long enough, even though the "FF" shows when you hold both buttons in for a few seconds. Be patient (unlike me), and hold those suckers down for a bit!

There still might be a problem, but for the moment I'm typing in conditioned air. Coolness! I feel in control of my place in the world, for a change.

I can't tell you-all how much I appreciate your support. This site rocks!
Glad that you got it working, but just for future reference, the phone cable in Dometic units carries a DC signal to the relay board in the upper unit from the t/stat.......not AC, which is precisely why the orientation of the connectors inside the cable DOES matter.
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Old 06-18-2008, 07:59 AM   #24
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For all you doubters that thought it wasn't really fixed... It's not. Quit again last night after running for a good 6 hours. Going to go visit the dealership today to discuss. I'm really worried that the dealer is going to "fix" it, only to have it fail again when I get it home. Does anyone have any advise on how to manage that?

I agree with your statement that the AC-to-tstat cable uses direct current - I really meant that standard phone lines are alternating current, so the cable direction doesn't matter in that case - I'm sure it does matter in the case of the cable for the AC unit.
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Old 06-18-2008, 10:55 AM   #25
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For all you doubters that thought it wasn't really fixed... It's not. Quit again last night after running for a good 6 hours. Going to go visit the dealership today to discuss. I'm really worried that the dealer is going to "fix" it, only to have it fail again when I get it home. Does anyone have any advise on how to manage that?

I agree with your statement that the AC-to-tstat cable uses direct current - I really meant that standard phone lines are alternating current, so the cable direction doesn't matter in that case - I'm sure it does matter in the case of the cable for the AC unit.
If I was working on your AS, and you described your attempts to remedy your situation up to this point, the first thing I would do is replace the CCC, after doing a few tests at the relay board in the upper unit (that means accessing it from the roof).

If that didn't provide any satisfaction (and I think it probably will), then it needs further digging at the upper unit. If the 'techs' at Bates don't have a clue, tell them to call Dometic tech support (I'm sure they have the #) and see what they suggest.

After all, you should still be under the Dometic warranty at this point: 2 years parts and labor and parts only in the 3rd year.
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