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Old 05-29-2016, 06:47 PM   #1
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2015 30' FB FC Bunk
California , Maryland
Join Date: Nov 2015
Posts: 5
AC issues

First trip of the season and both AC's don't work. They turn on, fan runs, and it sounds like the compressor starts, but no cool air. I checked all breakers, my input voltage at the outside box. It read 244V. Cycled power on both units, ran them individually, connected to the 30 Amp service (only ran one at a time), put them in HP mode. It was only in the 80's, but fairly humid. Even after running for 30-45 minutes, I never saw any water dripping from my condensation lines.

No error codes on thermostat.

All other appliances work great

Any suggestions before I take it in for warranty service?

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Old 05-29-2016, 06:50 PM   #2
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2014 20' Flying Cloud
Long Island , New York
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Originally Posted by knowltontr View Post
. . . It read 244V.
. . .
Are you sure about this voltage? Even with 50 Amps being standard for the newer larger trailers, isn't it still 120 volts? What outlet are you using?

There are other threads with A/C issues:

You can scan down the list of earlier threads here for more A/C topics:

PS -- Welcome to the forum, and good luck with the A/C!

PS2 -- Did you use the air conditioners last season, and the same outlet, and all was well?

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Old 05-29-2016, 07:15 PM   #3
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You will get 240+ VAC when measured across the 2 hot legs of a 50 amp service. Try measuring each individual leg to the neutral and if all is OK you should read half of what you originally measured : approx. 120 VAC on each leg.

Try a thermostat reset and check again. Be sure that your t/stat temp. settings are at least 5 deg. below ambient in the trailer.

If you have an RMS amp clamp type meter, next step is to measure the amp draw for each compressor ( blue or black wire leafing from the K-5 relay on the control board) after it has been on for at least 15 minutes.

If your readings don't come close the the RLA amps listed on the unit's data plate ( which you will see when you remove the upper shroud) then you have lost refrigerant IN BOTH UNITS and they must be replaced.

Other issues could be bad start capacitors, but if the compressors start and run, this is not applicable.

Lew Farber
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Old 05-29-2016, 07:25 PM   #4
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2016 30' Classic
London , Ontario
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You might also want to check for birds nests etc in the AC unit especially if the rig has been sitting awhile. Had this happen and when it was cleaned out it contained enough stuff for an eagles nest. Worked fine afterwards but you have to get on top and remove the covers.
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Old 05-30-2016, 06:45 AM   #5
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I tried responding to this last night, but the forum didn't cooperate...
Anyway, I'm not going to go into whether it's right, wrong, or indifferent, but I have seen more than a few campgrounds where both poles of the 50 amp service are on the same leg in the system, resulting in 120 volts on each pole. It doesn't seem to matter to the trailer, as the outlets all seem to have 120v nominal, but would be considered wasteful of electricity. In basic terms, you are using 50 amps on one leg, and sending the other 50 amps back to the power company, unused...
Meddle not in the affairs of dragons, for you are crunchy, and taste good with ketchup.
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Old 06-01-2016, 07:57 PM   #6
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2015 30' FB FC Bunk
California , Maryland
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Thanks Terry

I measured both hot legs to neutral at the camp ground and got 115.5 VAC on one leg and 124 VAC on the other. I also checked my neighbors 50 Amp voltage and it read the same as mine.

Annie - thanks for your inputs, but I cleaned and inspected the top of my rig last Thursday. It's clean as a whistle.

Lew - I reset the stat several times. The internal temp was 85 and both zones were set to 70/cool. I don't have an RMS clamp for my meter, but I will get one and measure the current.

I have also made an appointment to drop the Bunkie off at the dealership on our way home from camping this weekend. I'm praying for cool weather. At least the fridge is working fine and I'll have a Yeti filled with a few cold beverages.

Thanks again everyone.

I'll keep you all posted.

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