AC help

[nate3172]

Hi folks. Newbie here. My wife and I have recently aquired a 1965 overlander and we are in the process of doing the resoration. Upon inspection of the ac unit I noticed that it appears to be missing some parts. I have read alot of threads on this forum in regards to these armstrong units and would like to keep this ac unit and repair it. My question that I have is this: Is there a fan not only on the topside of the double shaft motor but on the inside as well? If so is it the same as the topside 23 degree ccw fan or is it different, i.e. 23 degree cw instead of ccw or just different all together? Much appreciative of any help from you knowledgeable folks!

[Inland RV Center, In]

Originally Posted by nate3172

Hi folks. Newbie here. My wife and I have recently aquired a 1965 overlander and we are in the process of doing the resoration. Upon inspection of the ac unit I noticed that it appears to be missing some parts. I have read alot of threads on this forum in regards to these armstrong units and would like to keep this ac unit and repair it. My question that I have is this: Is there a fan not only on the topside of the double shaft motor but on the inside as well? If so is it the same as the topside 23 degree ccw fan or is it different, i.e. 23 degree cw instead of ccw or just different all together? Much appreciative of any help from you knowledgeable folks!

Your original Armstrong TAC-110 AC, has one fan motor, with a blade on the top side as well as in the trailer.

Both fan blades are the same.

Andy

[nate3172]

Andy, I have read a number of your posts on these forums. Needless to say you are a much appreciated intellectual. I can not thank you enough for your contribution to not only my question but to the forum itself. Hopefully I will be able to return the favor some day. Thank you

[Inland RV Center, In]

Originally Posted by nate3172

Andy, I have read a number of your posts on these forums. Needless to say you are a much appreciated intellectual. I can not thank you enough for your contribution to not only my question but to the forum itself. Hopefully I will be able to return the favor some day. Thank you

How about sending some rain to southern California?

You folks up there are hoarding all the water.

We don't even get the clouds, let alone any rain.

Andy

[WILDRTEXAS]

I have a 1971 with an Armstrong that blow but not cold. Any ideas? Also, I was told thta you cant get parts for this unit. Is it true?

[Inland RV Center, In]

Originally Posted by WILDRTEXAS

I have a 1971 with an Armstrong that blow but not cold. Any ideas? Also, I was told thta you cant get parts for this unit. Is it true?

Parts are available.

Your AC might simply be low on Freon, as long as the compressor is running.

If the comporessor is not running, then the problem can simply be a relay.

Usually, the "parts are not available routine", comes from someone that wants to sell a new AC.

Andy

[nmbosa]

nate3172 - I have the same unit on my 1959 Overlander. If you have not already found this site - Bay Breeze AC, I found it pretty helpful. I need to start looking for someone willing to work on my AC, so if I have any luck, I'll try to pass the name on to you as I see you are also in the Seattle area.
Norm

[nate3172]

nmbosa, I appreciate the help. I actually read that info the other day. The only problem with it is that it is really vague. He doesn't really give you the specs on the motor and that ao smith replacement stock number no longer exists. Without having the old motor still in my unit I couldn't do my own comparison. Also, not being able to get a breakdown of this unit I really have no idea what parts are actually missing. I have prevailed and made some good progress with the help from you fine folks though. What I have found, in case anyone else needs this information, is that so far alot of these parts are available through Grainger. The new AO Smith number for the electric motor is RAL1006. The Grainger item number is 4MA51. It is listed at $118.35. It requires a capacitor because it does not come with it. The Grainger item number for the capacitor is 2MDV4. It is listed for $5.40. The fans can also be purchased through Grainger. That item number is 2RAV8 and they are $34.70 each. They are hubless so you have to purchase those and the item number for those is 2A564 and are $7.15 each. I did notice that Grainger has replacement compressors also. Not sure what the cross would be on that yet. If I go strictly by btu's than they have an 11,350 btu compressor for $351.00. It is an R22 and the dimensions are 12 9/16" H X 4 21/32"W X 8"L. Hope this helps anyone.

[nate3172]

Oh yea, I forgot to mention nmbosa, I may have a guy that will work on the ac units. He is a friend of a friend from my work who is a qualified and certified hvac guy. I may end up using him to at least charge the system if I get to that point this year. If he gets back to me and let's me know that he would be willing to work on mine I can definitely ask if he would be willing to work on yours also. I'm told he is top notch and is an old timer in the business so I'm sure he is full of knowledge.

[nmbosa]

nate3172, that's great. You have done way more research than I had so far. This is very helpful information. If your HVAC guy works out I would definetly be interested in having him work on my AC. I need someone to remove the freon from mine before I take it down during our restoration and then to recharge it and service when we are done.
Norm

[nate3172]

nmbosa, I checked out your blog. Nice! I really like the polish jo it looks great! I don't think I will get to that on mine this year but I'm doing my best. My overlander was in really rough shape when I picked it up in June. The flooring was rotted throughout, the interior wood was all rotten and falling apart, the toilet base had disintegrated, and the black water tanks mounting had rotted away and the tank was starting to fall through the belly pan in the back, missing windows. Basically a complete gut and refurb. The outer shell is in pretty good shape other than missing the back access door and some of the side covers for the other access points down the sides. The entry door was broken in four places, which is what I'm currently working on. Lucky for me I am a mechanic by trade and have access to alot of different resources and vendors. I have been able to find an easy and affordable way to weld aluminium for the door repair, get great price on the polycarbonate for the window replacement and the aluminium sheet for the door skin and the access panels. Currently trying to go through one of my vendors for the Olympic rivets and the shaver. That is a tough one so I'm not holding my breath. Needless to say it has been an exhausting amount of work and research, but I know it will pay off in the end when I'm camped out somewhere along the puget sound, kicked back with a nice cold beer, and watching the sunset.

[nmbosa]

Thanks, the polishing is just vaniety work that does not really move the ball forward on the ultimate goal of getting out and camping. Sounds like you have taken on a pretty good project and really got right at it. We will be moving our trailer into a shop for the winter to take on the heavy lifting. So, since I had some down time, I decided to get the first couple cuts of polishing done. That needs to end in the next week or two so I can start the real work of taking things apart. My door could also use some work as the handle area is pushed in a bit from what looks like an incident when it flew open on the road.

[nate3172]

Without a doubt the doors on these are really under engineered. Upon welding mine back together at the break points I also welded in some structural cross and vertical supports to strengthen the overall door and give it a little more ridgitity. It didn't add that much more weight to the door but it definitely made it alot more sound. Of course none of this makes much difference if one makes the mistake of not securing the door prior to towing. Which is what I presumed happened to it in the first place. I will post pics on here of the door and the fab work to it after I have completed it and have it re-skinned.