Ooh -- I'd bet it'd really mess up the polish! You'll have trouble routing a hose between the inner and outer skins of course. Mods have been moving a lot of threads to the new subforum areas and I seem to recall noting one among many that spoke about optional locations -- forget if it was down the space of one of the plumbing vent stacks. Might be good to look for that thread, Bob. Definitely will be in the Furnaces, Heaters, Fireplaces & Air Conditioning subforum. You can narrow it down in advanced search by searching that subforum only. Vary the search words: 'drip pan' 'drip pan hose' 'A/C hose' 'hose vent'. Good luck -- and let us know what you decide!
I added a drippan last December because, over time,the water running down the outside left white oxidation marks on the polished AL. Below are two pixs. The first is the whole pan. The tray across the pan (circled in red) is the part of the Airstream drip pan for a DuoTherm Penquin AC that collects the water from the AC. It hangs down inside the hole in the roof. The second view is from below and shows the tray and the tube. The rest of the pan is there, I quess, only to position the tray in the right spot to collect the water. If water gets in any part of the drippan except for the tray, it runs out onto the roof thru holes in the bottom of the pan. The pan is formed plastic.
So the hard part in fabbing a tray would be to decide where your AC is going to release the water. You can get the pan from Airstream. I bought mine at the FLA State Rally last year.
I have discovered that Airstream not only used vulcem to glue the drip pan to the roof but used vulcem to seal it to the A/C unit and then they riveted the edge of the drip pan to the Penguin's frame.
Any suggestions. I have a new penguin and drip pan ready to install.
But I have used to small putty knife and carefully pushed it underneath the drip pan on the roof to try and loosen the vulcem and tried to slice the vulcem from the inside surrounding the perimeter of the hole with no luck. I have tried to lift it and tilt it but i am killing my back.
Should I call a "crane"?
How many rivets are holding the pan to the AC unit? I would start by trying to separate the old AC from the drip pan by slicing around the perimeter, then it would be easier to peel the pan off the roof.
It would probably come off in small pieces.
I haven't done this so I'm just guessing. I used putty tape to mount the pan, and no rivets.
I've gotta know what purpose they thought was served by gluing the pan to the AC unit?
How many rivets are holding the pan to the AC unit? I would start by trying to separate the old AC from the drip pan by slicing around the perimeter, then it would be easier to peel the pan off the roof.
It would probably come off in small pieces.
I haven't done this so I'm just guessing. I used putty tape to mount the pan, and no rivets.
I've gotta know what purpose they thought was served by gluing the pan to the AC unit?
I've seen this before................possibly to prevent rain water from entering the space between the A/C unit and the pan so it can not get into the ceiling or drip on the floor.
In any event, I would use a semi hard foam like a standard 14 X 14 A/C roof gasket and cut that to shape and place it between the pan and the unit if you're worried about outside water entering the trailer. Seal it to the pan if you like, but not to the A/C.
thanks for the replies.
My new penguin already has the gasket installed, but several people on this forum are saying to remove it to install the drip pan.
Several say they have called AS service and say to use the gasket and to cut the gasket off. So I'm still confused.
Should I use vulcem to seal the new drip pan to the roof? and cut the gasket to fit around the drip pan access gutters?
On my trailer, fitting the whole 14 by 14 foam gasket would prevent the condensate water reaching the Airstream drip pan. I cut a couple of two inch sections out of the gasket on the edge towards the rear of the trailer to allow the condensate free passage. I would use Vulkem to seal the drain pan to the trailer roof.
Nick.
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Nick Crowhurst, Excella 25 1988, Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins Diesel. England in summer, USA in winter.
"The price of freedom is eternal maintenance."
I agree with Nick! Seal the drain pan to the roof. Be certain that it is properly positioned since once the polyurethane goes off, it will be a bear to remove! . Then place the Penguin on the pan and center it over it and press down. Remove it and you should see indents in the foam gasket where you will have to trim it to allow the gasket to fit the pan properly and allow for the condensate to flow.
thanks for the replies.
My new penguin already has the gasket installed, but several people on this forum are saying to remove it to install the drip pan.
Several say they have called AS service and say to use the gasket and to cut the gasket off. So I'm still confused.
Should I use vulcem to seal the new drip pan to the roof? and cut the gasket to fit around the drip pan access gutters?
Camping World removed the 14x14x2 gasket from the Penguin, per Airstream, then they applied a tube of caulking to the bottom of drip pan, placed the drip pan over the 14x14 opening, make sure that you place a drop cloth on the floor, you will get some of the caulking dripping down, that is a good thing, they placed the air unit on top of the drip pan (a 2 man job), then installed the bolt, should be good to go.........
Camping World removed the 14x14x2 gasket from the Penguin, per Airstream, then they applied a tube of caulking to the bottom of drip pan, placed the drip pan over the 14x14 opening, make sure that you place a drop cloth on the floor, you will get some of the caulking dripping down, that is a good thing, they placed the air unit on top of the drip pan (a 2 man job), then installed the bolt, should be good to go.........
Toastie,
I hope that your CW install went well. I have had to re-do too many CW installs to have any faith in the quality of work that they put out. When the corporate culture at a shop is to blast as many installs out the door as possible in the shortest time, quality ALWAYS takes a back seat!
I hope that your CW install went well. I have had to re-do too many CW installs to have any faith in the quality of work that they put out. When the corporate culture at a shop is to blast as many installs out the door as possible in the shortest time, quality ALWAYS takes a back seat!
They did a perfect job installing the air, of course the tech was an expert, and has done a few installs, I made sure of that. The 14x14 foam that come with the unit, one can take a look and tell that its not going to work, cauking is the only way.......
They did a perfect job installing the air, of course the tech was an expert, and has done a few installs, I made sure of that. The 14x14 foam that come with the unit, one can take a look and tell that its not going to work, cauking is the only way.......
The internal bolts that hold the unit down are only tightened to 5 ft lbs on my unit, so that the thick sponge gasket is only lightly compressed, thereby maintaining its shock-absorbing property. The unit is heavy, and will subject the trailer and drip pan to high loads under accelleration, decelleration and cornering. I believe the function of the thick sponge gasket is to lessen the impact of these loads. Fixing the unit rigidly down on the pan, and hence the trailer, and sealing with caulk, will certainly work, and customers are unlikely to find fault in the short term. However, in order to minimiize fatigue cracking in the drip pan and trailer, I would always use the gasket, check the torque annually, and replace the gasket when necessary. Just my humble opinion.
Nick.
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Nick Crowhurst, Excella 25 1988, Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins Diesel. England in summer, USA in winter.
"The price of freedom is eternal maintenance."