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06-22-2010, 08:03 PM
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#1
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New Member
Currently Looking...
Onalaska
, Texas
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 4
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ac drain line
1979 Sovereign ac drain broken into many pieces and I was unsucessful at fishing a cord or wire through the old line before it came apart.
I have removed the banana wrap and left belly pan and can see insulation up through the hole but have been unsucessful fishing a wire or chain from the top down. are there cross stringers in the walls stopping me?
Any ideas short of cabinet/frige removal? HELP
Thanks in advance
Doug
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06-22-2010, 08:41 PM
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#2
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Rivet Master
1972 31' Sovereign
Lexington
, Minnesota
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 3,982
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On our '72 Sovereign, the drain tube does not run in a straight line from the a/c down the wall. Ours runs forward one or two ribs before running down the wall. It runs through a few plastic clips that held it to the outside skin. It could be that you are hitting clips or a cross member. I'm out of town right now, but I can post a picture or two next week once I'm back home if that would help.
Chris
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06-22-2010, 08:46 PM
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#3
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Rivet Master
Commercial Member
Currently Looking...
Denton
, North Carolina
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 786
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Doug,
Yes there are cross stringers in the walls, and I have never had any luck with a wire or string. I have used the tubing itself and tried to push that through. If there is a seam on the inside that you can pull lose by taking a few rivets out and slide your hand inside to guide the tubing that will help a lot.
Dan
__________________
Dan Brown Denton NC
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06-22-2010, 08:50 PM
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#4
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Rivet Master
1972 31' Sovereign
Lexington
, Minnesota
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 3,982
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Just though of this - how about an electrician's fish tape? I would think you could push that through the wall, especially if you push it down right next to a rib.
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06-22-2010, 09:07 PM
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#5
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New Member
Currently Looking...
Onalaska
, Texas
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 4
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Thanks Chris
Sounds like I will have to cut inspection openings behind the cabinets for acess to do the job right and to secure the new tube to the rib.
My rib is just about 4" forward of the drain opening. Are the cross members two seperate strips of angle with a long gap between or is it solid like c chanel or does it have lightening holes in the middle? I think I am getting down about 1/2 way down the wall but with the insulation I am not getting any metal on metal feel.
I also found a 1/4 x 1/8 inch hole about six feet up on the outer skin that appears to be corosion from the inside out. There is a small 1/16 alluminum buble about 1/14 inch away. I can patch it easily easily enough from the outside and I assume it is related to moisture trapped in the insulation from the leaking ac hose has anybody else out there discovered the in the same area? I would of expected it on the rib but it is located about 3"aft of the rib.
I am planning to use 1/2 inch rv water supply hose for replacement because I have the impression that it is durable and may outlast the original hard black plastic hose is this a mistake?
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06-22-2010, 09:17 PM
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#6
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New Member
Currently Looking...
Onalaska
, Texas
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 4
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Thanks Dan
The only way I can do that sucessfully is if I remove the cabinets and probably the refrigerator on the left side and I was hoping to avoid that. There are shelves about every 8" on the cabinet in front of the area and it looks like the whole unit will have to be dissassembled to remove them.
I am going to try Chris' idea tomorrow I just don't know what kind of hole I am looking to hit. and if the tubbing will cause rub wear problems if left unsecured.
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06-22-2010, 09:37 PM
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#7
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Rivet Master
1979 31' Sovereign
1950 22' Liner
Powhatan
, Virginia
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 521
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This maybe a bad idea, I don't know. Since you have cabinets and fridge at the wall, would it be a bad idea to run the hose through the roof/wall until you get to inside the upper cabinet, have the hose going inside the inside layer of aluminum from that point to the floor (behind fridge), then drill a hole in the floor to put the tube down through?
Not only would this be easy to fish through and it would be out of view but you can also see if it ever starts leaking again. I am sure you could use clips to hold it to the cabinet side for a clean look inside the cabinets.
Ours isn't leaking currently but it is a 1979 and original. I keep worrying it may be leaking and I couldn't tell.
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Tadd, Beth, Grundgetta and Weeble
Our blog
Proud to be Air #37137
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06-22-2010, 10:43 PM
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#8
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Rivet Master
2006 25' Safari FB SE
1972 23' Safari
Houston
, Texas
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 1,355
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Mine leaks down the outside of the trailer, meaning the hose never got connected.
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06-22-2010, 11:44 PM
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#9
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New Member
Currently Looking...
Onalaska
, Texas
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 4
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I think the Bowmans solution is the best I've heard so far. I thank all who have replied. I am always amazed at how much more quickly a problem can be solved in the internet age with people working together.
Doug
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06-23-2010, 06:23 PM
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#10
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Rivet Master
1972 31' Sovereign
Lexington
, Minnesota
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 3,982
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Hi Doug,
You probably don't need this info any more, but in our trailer, the cross members seem to be a combination of solid pieces and ones with holes in them. No rhyme or reason as to why they use one type in one place and the other type in another. The drain tube does leave the bottom of the trailer about 3 inches behind a rib, and in front of the wheel well. If you look at the first picture in post #27 here: http://www.airforums.com/forums/f185...b-50967-2.html, you can see the black tube snaking forward from the a/c along the center, and then down the side. I count 4 potential cross pieces you could be hitting assuming that your tube follows the same route and the trailer is built the same basic way. The tube in the pic is currently pulled out of the clips, but the clips were all located 3 to 4 inches behind the rib as well.
Your hole could be a result of a leaking tube and constant moisture. It could also be a previous PO installed a steel pop rivet, and it corroded the skin as well. Our tube is really solid and still flexible, even though it's a '72. But I'll probably replace it, unless the new a/c we'll put on has an outside drain like so many of them do now-a-days. Our current SOB trailer, and the 2 before that, all had a/c's with a outside roof drain, and they would just drip off the roof somewhere.
I'm with Bowmans - run your replacement tube down inside the cabinets if you can and you're ok with doing that. Seems a much easier solution.
Good luck!
Chris
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06-23-2010, 10:37 PM
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#11
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Rivet Master
1966 24' Tradewind
1995 34' Excella
Lynchburg
, Virginia
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 4,225
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Doug
The original drain on my 66 Tradewind was 1/2" copper and it was exposed and ran next to the pleated door. We replaced it with 1/2" pex. It worked out real well. Pex is rigid but with some flexability. So where ever you run it I recommend Pex.
Dan
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07-01-2010, 05:52 PM
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#12
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1 Rivet Member
Bradenton
, Florida
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 18
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Me Too
I am as new an owner as you can get. 75 31' sovereign. Air has been replaced. Should it be draining condensate down the side of the trailer?
I am getting ready to move in, full time and would like to know if I have a potential problem on my hands. One of the posts made it sound like the unit was meant to drain on the outside of the trailer??
Thanks ahaead,
Steve
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07-01-2010, 08:01 PM
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#13
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Rivet Master
1956 22' Flying Cloud
1953 32' Liner
1955 22' Safari
Valley View
, Texas
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 3,971
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No< no< no.
There should be no water running down the sides. A drain line can, and should be part of the AC installation. Water on the sides is a mess and will lead to corrosion along the drip trails.
__________________
"If it can't be reduced, reused, repaired, rebuilt, refurbished, refinished, resold, recycled or composted
then it should be restricted, redesigned or removed from production."
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07-01-2010, 08:40 PM
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#14
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3 Rivet Member
Currently Looking...
McLeod
, Texas
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 118
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No water down the sides is a good thing
Melody Ranch I agree that no water on the sides is a really good thing, but I am a little confused about a couple of points. My '71 Tradewind has the drain hose exiting the belly pan forward of the axles roadside, but it still leaks down the sides, and not from the hose like it should. The AC went out today, so I have a chance to fix the drainage when I replace the unit. I think there is supposed to be a drain pan that the hose attaches to. If someone could post some pictures of the way this is hooked up, it would be a big help.
Thanks,
Tom
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07-01-2010, 09:34 PM
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#15
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Rivet Master
1956 22' Flying Cloud
1953 32' Liner
1955 22' Safari
Valley View
, Texas
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 3,971
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this only one that I have available...
Dometic Brisk Air
__________________
"If it can't be reduced, reused, repaired, rebuilt, refurbished, refinished, resold, recycled or composted
then it should be restricted, redesigned or removed from production."
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07-02-2010, 06:49 AM
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#16
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Rivet Master
1972 31' Sovereign
Lexington
, Minnesota
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 3,982
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Melody Ranch
There should be no water running down the sides. A drain line can, and should be part of the AC installation. Water on the sides is a mess and will lead to corrosion along the drip trails.
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Ok, that makes sense. We haven't gotten to the point of replacing the a/c yet, but I'll keep that in mind when we do. My expereince with my 3 SOB trailers was that they all drained directly on the roof. Do modern rv roof a/c's have the ability to connect to the drain hose that runs inside the airstream?
Chris
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