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Old 01-22-2010, 07:59 PM   #15
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I like, too, Rich. Get a thread going or we'll totally hijack this one.

steve
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Old 01-23-2010, 07:54 AM   #16
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I like, too, Rich. Get a thread going or we'll totally hijack this one.

steve
Rich, go ahead hi-jack this thread, we are all interested. I can then get rid of the ugly top unit, the anti Air-Streaming drag unit
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Old 01-23-2010, 08:09 AM   #17
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Rich,
You have certainly generated a ton of interest in your AC solution! can't wait to see more pics.
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Old 01-23-2010, 09:20 AM   #18
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I hate to be Mr downer, but, if house units were an optimal solution, wouldnt manufactures be installing them at the factory? Will a house unit hold up to the rigors of road travel?
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Old 01-23-2010, 10:23 AM   #19
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The aluminum plate that the shroud mounts onto was riveted to the outer skin, so I drilled out the rivets and installed a gasket onto the back of the plate. I will eventually replace it with a riveted on gasket. When opened it has a foam gasket that will seal to the inside wall of the Safari. It's not as critical as the outer gasket, as it won't be used when it's raining anyway, Unless it's a really, really hot rain!
Rich the Viking
Not only is that a cool install, but it puts you in very esteemed company as I believe the 'legendary' Fred Colwell has a similar installation. Sure keeps the profile of your trailer looking sweetly vintage. Nice work!
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Old 01-23-2010, 10:25 AM   #20
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I installed a 8k btu window AC in my Safari. Craigslist=$50.00 came with remote control even. New in the box cost about $200 to $250 compared to $1200+ for that low-profile coleman roof-mount job. It gets my Safari down to 65degrees on a 90+ degree day. It can easily be run with a 2k Honda generator, along with a few other things. Mine is mounted in the former furnace location and slides out for use so it can drip right onto the ground. I have since installed the old furnace shroud to the sliding tray so you can't tell it's there.

Rich the Viking
How do you keep the rain water out?

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Old 01-23-2010, 10:30 AM   #21
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I think he reinstalls the cover when not in use.
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Old 01-23-2010, 10:33 AM   #22
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I think he reinstalls the cover when not in use.
That sounds "iffy", but maybe not.

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Old 01-25-2010, 11:17 AM   #23
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Sorry, I have a nasty virus on my laptop computer so I only have internet access at work right now. I'm jonesin' for some airforums time!
In the pics I posted the shroud was not on it yet. I re-installed it, but it's not completely done yet. The back of the shroud has to be sealed off to keep rainwater from getting in, and it's attached to the slide-out platform that holds the AC , with about 6" of space between the back of the AC and the shroud, to allow for cooling air circulation.
I still need to build a drip tray to protect the wood pullout from the condensation drip and a better latch mechanism to hold it closed.
Here's a couple more pics: the platform support with Blum soft-close slides, and the installation shown from inside.
I will take more pics and do a documentation thread to show ALL the detail. Stay tuned....

Rich the Viking
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Old 01-25-2010, 12:10 PM   #24
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I hate to be Mr downer, but, if house units were an optimal solution, wouldnt manufactures be installing them at the factory? Will a house unit hold up to the rigors of road travel?
Hi Rodney,

Our 15 foot casita came with a house A/C. It was still working great when we sold the trailer 7 years later. It is certainly a cost effective solution.
Regards,
Ken
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Old 01-25-2010, 12:38 PM   #25
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I can get 5 new window AC's for the price of a new roof-mounted unit, not including installation, and I can get a smaller btu unit to fit my Safari better.
I have not heard of one of these failing due to vibration. There have been many window mounted AC's used in travel trailers. My reason for using this was to keep the roof line clean, and to be able to run on a single honda 2000 generator.

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I hate to be Mr downer, but, if house units were an optimal solution, wouldnt manufactures be installing them at the factory? Will a house unit hold up to the rigors of road travel?
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Old 01-25-2010, 01:47 PM   #26
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The risk is not of the AC being damaged by the trailer's vibration. The risk is of the trailer being damaged by the AC unit's vibration. :-) Every one of them I've owned has been bad that way.

Scamp, at one point, was installing residential AC units in trailer walls. They have switched to rooftop units.

The main problem with window units is that they do have to be installed in such a way as to protrude at least 6" or so (more for larger units) from the outside wall, posing clearance problems unless something innovative like Rich's roller tray is used.

There do exist some "wall mount" units sold for apartments and the like, that can be installed flush. They have the exhaust in the center and the intakes to either side but still in the rear wall. Those would be the best alternative for something that doesn't have to be slid back and forth. You would still give up a great deal of space in the trailer, and because of the weight, it would have to be installed on the floor or braced to it. While workable you can see why the rooftop units are popular.

Coleman also makes an interesting unit designed for mounting in a "basement" compartment of a bus that could be adapted for vintage 'streams where it is a goal to leave the roofline stock.
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Old 01-25-2010, 02:04 PM   #27
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I can get 5 new window AC's for the price of a new roof-mounted unit, not including installation, and I can get a smaller btu unit to fit my Safari better.
I have not heard of one of these failing due to vibration. There have been many window mounted AC's used in travel trailers. My reason for using this was to keep the roof line clean, and to be able to run on a single honda 2000 generator.

Rich the Viking
You can only mount them in the front or rear window.

Mounting them on the side would more than likely make the trailer too wide.

Next problem, is the shell flexes, which would cause mounting problems on the side.

But, it's your call.

Andy
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Old 01-25-2010, 03:02 PM   #28
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This is a side pullout unit Andy. I mounted it mainly to the floor but with reinforcement to the wall and wheel well. The seal to the interior wall is 1/2" thick foam rubber gasket material which allows the movement between the floor and the shell to happen.

If you can safely mount a #200 unit on the roof, this little #45 unit on my floor will NOT be a problem.

Rich the Viking

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You can only mount them in the front or rear window.

Mounting them on the side would more than likely make the trailer too wide.

Next problem, is the shell flexes, which would cause mounting problems on the side.

But, it's your call.

Andy
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