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Old 01-23-2010, 09:30 AM   #21
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I think he reinstalls the cover when not in use.
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Old 01-23-2010, 09:33 AM   #22
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I think he reinstalls the cover when not in use.
That sounds "iffy", but maybe not.

Andy
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Old 01-25-2010, 10:17 AM   #23
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Sorry, I have a nasty virus on my laptop computer so I only have internet access at work right now. I'm jonesin' for some airforums time!
In the pics I posted the shroud was not on it yet. I re-installed it, but it's not completely done yet. The back of the shroud has to be sealed off to keep rainwater from getting in, and it's attached to the slide-out platform that holds the AC , with about 6" of space between the back of the AC and the shroud, to allow for cooling air circulation.
I still need to build a drip tray to protect the wood pullout from the condensation drip and a better latch mechanism to hold it closed.
Here's a couple more pics: the platform support with Blum soft-close slides, and the installation shown from inside.
I will take more pics and do a documentation thread to show ALL the detail. Stay tuned....

Rich the Viking
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Old 01-25-2010, 11:10 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by Gen Disarray View Post
I hate to be Mr downer, but, if house units were an optimal solution, wouldnt manufactures be installing them at the factory? Will a house unit hold up to the rigors of road travel?
Hi Rodney,

Our 15 foot casita came with a house A/C. It was still working great when we sold the trailer 7 years later. It is certainly a cost effective solution.
Regards,
Ken
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Old 01-25-2010, 11:38 AM   #25
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I can get 5 new window AC's for the price of a new roof-mounted unit, not including installation, and I can get a smaller btu unit to fit my Safari better.
I have not heard of one of these failing due to vibration. There have been many window mounted AC's used in travel trailers. My reason for using this was to keep the roof line clean, and to be able to run on a single honda 2000 generator.

Rich the Viking


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I hate to be Mr downer, but, if house units were an optimal solution, wouldnt manufactures be installing them at the factory? Will a house unit hold up to the rigors of road travel?
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Old 01-25-2010, 12:47 PM   #26
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The risk is not of the AC being damaged by the trailer's vibration. The risk is of the trailer being damaged by the AC unit's vibration. :-) Every one of them I've owned has been bad that way.

Scamp, at one point, was installing residential AC units in trailer walls. They have switched to rooftop units.

The main problem with window units is that they do have to be installed in such a way as to protrude at least 6" or so (more for larger units) from the outside wall, posing clearance problems unless something innovative like Rich's roller tray is used.

There do exist some "wall mount" units sold for apartments and the like, that can be installed flush. They have the exhaust in the center and the intakes to either side but still in the rear wall. Those would be the best alternative for something that doesn't have to be slid back and forth. You would still give up a great deal of space in the trailer, and because of the weight, it would have to be installed on the floor or braced to it. While workable you can see why the rooftop units are popular.

Coleman also makes an interesting unit designed for mounting in a "basement" compartment of a bus that could be adapted for vintage 'streams where it is a goal to leave the roofline stock.
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Old 01-25-2010, 01:04 PM   #27
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I can get 5 new window AC's for the price of a new roof-mounted unit, not including installation, and I can get a smaller btu unit to fit my Safari better.
I have not heard of one of these failing due to vibration. There have been many window mounted AC's used in travel trailers. My reason for using this was to keep the roof line clean, and to be able to run on a single honda 2000 generator.

Rich the Viking
You can only mount them in the front or rear window.

Mounting them on the side would more than likely make the trailer too wide.

Next problem, is the shell flexes, which would cause mounting problems on the side.

But, it's your call.

Andy
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Old 01-25-2010, 02:02 PM   #28
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This is a side pullout unit Andy. I mounted it mainly to the floor but with reinforcement to the wall and wheel well. The seal to the interior wall is 1/2" thick foam rubber gasket material which allows the movement between the floor and the shell to happen.

If you can safely mount a #200 unit on the roof, this little #45 unit on my floor will NOT be a problem.

Rich the Viking

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You can only mount them in the front or rear window.

Mounting them on the side would more than likely make the trailer too wide.

Next problem, is the shell flexes, which would cause mounting problems on the side.

But, it's your call.

Andy
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Old 01-25-2010, 11:59 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by VIKING View Post
This is a side pullout unit Andy. I mounted it mainly to the floor but with reinforcement to the wall and wheel well. The seal to the interior wall is 1/2" thick foam rubber gasket material which allows the movement between the floor and the shell to happen.

If you can safely mount a #200 unit on the roof, this little #45 unit on my floor will NOT be a problem.

Rich the Viking
Rich,

I've see photos of a small canned ham trailer where the owner did a similar installation, but he mounted it up high on the wall. That way cold air is being blow to the ceiling. There was some sort of slide out too, but yours is very well hidden from the outside when not in use.

Carol
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Old 01-26-2010, 07:23 AM   #30
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Well for me I think Rich's idea is excellent. I have a hatch at the side that was designed for access to under the side couch, but now that area is converted to a dinette and I was wondering what to do with this exposed area. I think I now have the solution. Making it removable will allow me to only install it if I expect to be in a warm place.

Thanks Rich, keep the other photo's coming.
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Old 01-26-2010, 10:00 AM   #31
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I must say that this is not my idea at all. I heard about it first on the VAP from Rob Baker, (I believe he did this on an older Caraval) and then I saw something on Uwe's website that sparked the idea for me. I don't remember if it was an AC or something else. Also, at the Vintage Airstream Restoration Rally last year, I saw another one done in a similar way.
I hated the typical RV furnace for the power drain and the noise that comes with them, so I planned on removing mine and not replacing it with the same thing anyway, so that freed up that space for the AC. I will deal with the other aspects of not having the heat going to the holding tanks, etc. They are not forgotten. Obviously this installation isn't for everyone, but I think it has its good points, one of which is the cost and the other which I stated earlier: I can run this with a single Honda 2000 generator with watts to spare. Try that with a roof-mounted one!
Thanks for the nice comments. I will get a thread going on this as soon as my exterminator fixes my laptop.
Here's a couple of pics of the most painful part of this conversion: cutting the shell.
Rich the Viking
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Old 03-16-2010, 07:03 PM   #32
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Obviously it's been replaced with a Duotherm, but you also say Domestic, which is really Dometic.
Duo Therm is made by Dometic:
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Old 01-28-2012, 06:37 PM   #33
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Viking,
Thanks for sharing this info! I am about to do this to my 76 Safari. I think the AS looks 100% cleaner and the savings is substantial. Lower center of gravity, as well. Heard about it first on the VAP, but your pics help!
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Old 01-28-2012, 09:41 PM   #34
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I would like to own a 17ft Caravel some day and I sure would not want an A/C mounted on the top to ruin the looks of it. I would camp in it sans A/C when the weather allowed or when I was boondocking. However if I did decide any time that I wanted to install air conditioning I think that Rich's installation has lots of merit. Like any new idea "new solutions have new problems", but I think the advantages are enough to overcome these new problems.

Dan
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Old 01-28-2012, 10:20 PM   #35
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12vdc AC, here is the animal...but expensive..

Real A/C

g
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Old 01-28-2012, 10:55 PM   #36
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c177tx

Ok, so 12v ac is available but at $4,600 no thanks. Plus the only reason to have 12v is to run off the batteries and you are not going to operate this ac very long (@27 amps). Most practical solution is for a 120v ac generator (2-3 kw) and an efficient ac unit.

Dan
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Old 01-29-2012, 07:11 AM   #37
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I would like to own a 17ft Caravel some day and I sure would not want an A/C mounted on the top to ruin the looks of it. I would camp in it sans A/C when the weather allowed or when I was boondocking. However if I did decide any time that I wanted to install air conditioning I think that Rich's installation has lots of merit. Like any new idea "new solutions have new problems", but I think the advantages are enough to overcome these new problems.

Dan
This is how I did mine, post 498,499,501,531 and 532..........toastie

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f36/...-38289-36.html
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Old 01-29-2012, 08:38 AM   #38
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Dan,

I agree this unit is not practical for boondocking I was just pointing that there are 12 vdc systems out there. This is just the one that has been on my wish list (when I win the lottery) for my other aluminum love. (a cessna cardinal)

Now here is another system that is on the large size but a smaller unit might work?

DC Air Conditioner: 12 Volt 24 volt 48 Volt DC Air Conditioners DC Solar Air Conditioning

g
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Old 01-29-2012, 09:12 AM   #39
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a/c

Why not use a split unit?
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Old 01-29-2012, 07:02 PM   #40
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Toastie

Great A/C custom installation. How is it working for you?

Dan
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