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Old 09-11-2009, 03:30 PM   #1
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2007 23' International CCD
vero beach , Florida
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A/C Wont Run

Hey all. Our trailer sits out front of the house. We keep the ac on so it doesn’t mildew as we live in Florida. A month ago the A/C stopped working. We had originally suspected it was because we had it plugged into a 20 amp adapter. To double check this theory we drove up to a camp site (also finding the battery was dead, the electric jack would barely move) and plugged it into a 30 amp plug with no adapter and the A/C ran fine. We brought it back to the house. I got all the materials to install a 30 amp service but had trouble finding the right breaker. In the meantime we plugged the trailer back into the 20 amp service and the A/C went back to running. 10 days later the A/C stops working again while on 20 amp service. We suspect it is not working because it is not on a 30 amp breaker. I found the breaker I needed and installed the plug etc. Plug the trailer in and the A/C still won’t run. The lights on the interior are dim even with the 30 amp connected.
Here is a quick list of what I've found.

With the trailer connected to the trucks electrical power the jack/interior lights all work.

When connected to the 30 amp outlet the batteries are only reading about 7 DCV. When not connected they were at about 1.5 DCV.

I charged the batteries up a bit while I was checking the truck connection to about 10 DCV. I unplugged the connection from the truck then turned on the 30 amp service then went inside. The lights were brighter. I attempted to turn on the A/C. As soon as it clicked on the lights went dim and something beeped and I shut the A/C off.

The unit is a 2007 Airstream International. The converter unit is parallax power model 7300 55 amps. All fuses are intact. All breakers were hand tripped and reset firmly. Voltage was checked at batteries and at the connections to the fuse panel.

Thanks for reading. I hope someone has a suggestion. Thanks in advance!

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Old 09-11-2009, 04:22 PM   #2
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Greetings from the Florida Panhandle

I'm not sure about the Air Conditioner mystery.

On the batteries, they should be putting our around 13.5 DCV. I just checked mine and I am on shore power. They are both reading 13.65 DCV.


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Old 09-11-2009, 05:53 PM   #3
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The AC most likely failed due to low voltage because of 20 amp circuit. As voltage goes down amps will go up and that unit may have shut down on an internal current overload protection.

If you have a volt meter test the voltage before the AC is turned on and then again after the compressor kicks in. If the voltage goes below 105 that is clearly the problem. It may also be the problem if below 110 and the compressor is on for a prolonged time.

While the batteries are not in the 120 volt system the converter that supplies them is and again it may have internal protection to shut down during low voltage conditions. While the AC is off test the output of the converter. It should be about 14 volts DC. The fact that your batteries were as low as you mention they may be shot and need to be repalced.
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Old 09-11-2009, 06:49 PM   #4
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first i'd check the battery converter and find out why the batteries are low.

does the converter hum?

have you checked the battery water?

is the trailer on an extension cord and if so, how long is it and what is the cords rating?
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Old 09-12-2009, 01:30 AM   #5
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Hi, my thoughts on this are, that your batteries are shot/dead/trash and your converter is using up all of your 120 volt power trying to charge bad batteries; This doesn't leave enough power left to run your air conditioner. Remove the batteries and try your air conditioner. Take your batteries and have them load tested.

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Old 09-12-2009, 03:50 AM   #6
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1) Check the connections where the wires fasten into the circuit breakers. You might find a couple have loosened up.

2) Get volt meter and make sure you have at least 110 volts in the trialer when the AC is running.

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Old 09-14-2009, 03:51 PM   #7
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vero beach , Florida
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Batteries were kaput. Replaced with new batteries. Everything turns on but still not getting a charge while on shore power. A/C will kick on. Is it possible that the converter is shot? The reading I'm getting to the batteries is about 12v while plugged into shore power. My guess is that they aren't getting any charge from the charger/converter.

I do have I have about 120v while A/C is running.
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Old 09-14-2009, 04:08 PM   #8
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When you installed the 30 amp breaker, did you merely replace a 20 amp breaker, or did you re-wire with heavy wire able to support 30 amps? Just replacing the breaker will not necessarily give you the amperage you are looking for. If the wiring is too small, it will not carry the amount of current you need. More amperage needs larger wire, just like more water through a hose. Changing the hose fitting and using the small hose won't help. You may need a larger hose. And, the longer the run, the larger you need.
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Old 09-14-2009, 04:21 PM   #9
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vero beach , Florida
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Number 8 solid core wire. The new outlet is attached and grounded to the service panel. The hot and common were both torqued to spec. The cord running to the airstream is the one that came with it. No adapters or extensions. Thanks for the reply though. I think I'm going to isolate the converter unit and bench test it.
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Old 09-14-2009, 04:45 PM   #10
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Mine has an older inverter and sometimes when not charging properly I have to remove shore line power and unhook the batteries to let the inverter go dead for a couple of minutes and then restore power and let the inverter reset. It is easy to do and may be worth a try.
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Old 09-14-2009, 06:03 PM   #11
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With the new batteries the converter should be putting out around 13.2V if the batteries are charged and up to 14.4 if the batteries are really low.

Sounds to me like the converter bit the dust.


Your converter may have tripped a breaker or blown a fuse due to the low input voltage.

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Old 09-14-2009, 06:42 PM   #12
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Check the plug on the cable, when plugged into a lower voltage source, they will heat up, possible separation or corrosion of wires inside plug. If you have an IR thermometer shoot the plug after it runs for a while, could get hot and separates. Have seen burned plug from arcing.
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Old 09-14-2009, 08:02 PM   #13
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See this post in Though it is said that a compressor needs about 22 amps to start up, the compressor will strain to start on 15 (shortening service life). For convenience, 30 amps is only the next highest number.

Chuck is saying that if you aren't running your fridge or other high draw appliances, if your AC can pull on the full 20 amps available you should be able to test on such a circuit.

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Old 09-14-2009, 08:56 PM   #14
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How about this...
Some of the new AC units need 12v in order to run...
If your converter is bad, as soon as the 12v batteries die, the AC will quit.

Then you hook up the trailer and tow to the campground 'charging the 12V system as you tow' so the AC works at the campground and when you return home...

But very soon, the 12V's die and the AC quits again...

Check out the 12V charging system and with some luck your AC problem will dissappear

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A honkin' long 34' named AlumaTherapy
and a 26' '63 Overlander, Dolly
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