A/C removal

[Rob]

The A/C is dead and worse yet it leaks.
I want to remove it and patch the hole until I can save enough pennies to get a new one.

I used a sharp putty knife to sheer off all the rivets between the A/C and the roof. I went inside and removed the bottom half. I tried to push up on the unit to see if it was ready to go, but it did not budge. I can't beleive it weighs more than 100 lbs or so.

Has anyone removed theirs or seen it done?

Rob

[74Argosy24MH]

If you sheared rivets you probably cut the pan loose that the AC mounts on. There will be a ton on sealer under this still holding it to the roof. What did you pull loose inside? If everything is disconnected it should still come off and the pan will stay.

John

[Rob]

From the inside I removed a cover or shroud and a control panel etc. Sorry, but I don't know all the terms for these parts.

I will remove as much of the caulk as possible and try again.
The pan and A/C are not bolted together?

Rob

[Jabba]

I'm watching this thread with much interest and have another question. Are all A/C openings the same in basic dimensions? A 14 x 14 opening? Would the '64 I'm looking at be able to have a modern unit dropped in without too many mods? What's the reverse procedure going to be sealing wise?

[overlander64]

Greetings Jabba!

If the 1964 that you are looking at has the original Armstrong Bay Breeze Air Conditioner, it will not be mounted in the same manner as a modern unit. There are either two or three round holes through the roof connecting the rooftop unit with the interior unit. When a new unit is installed to replace one of these Bay Breeze units, the roof and interior panels must be cut to provide an opening of the correct dimensions, and some reinforcing blocks also may need to be added. I am not certain about all of the particulars as my dealer, Ace Fogdall RV, Inc, did all of the replacement work on mine. I chose to go with a Coleman unit, but it was one for which the condesate drain pan was not available so the condesate moisture drains on the roof and down the side of the trailer. Another feature that must be given up with virtually all modern replacements for the original Bay Breeze is the wall mounted thermostatic control.

Kevin

[Jabba]

Hi Kevin,

Not what I wanted to hear!!! I just got off the phone with the factory to find out what a rib repair would run, roof mods I didn't figure (but had a hunch, since the unit has 3 vents already). I guess if we got it, we could wait to repair the A/C. If I may ask, what was the ballpark cost on that for you? Something else to figure in to the equation, that keeps growing... Thank You for the heads up!

[Action]

Rob,

I removed the old Duo Term A/C unit in my Overlander and replaced it with a wrecking yard Duo Therm that was about 2 years old.

Cost was $350.00 plus tax for the new unit which included a new gasket and mounting bolts and instructions. Labor was from the committee of me.

Removal of the old unit also required removing 4 mounting bolts from the inside. To gain access to them the inner panel will have to be removed. You did not mention removing the mounting bolts.

My old unit was very heavy. In the neighborhood of 100 #'s. And it did have a mounting panel on the roof outside that had many phillips screws that needed to be removed. The new one was much lighter and lower in profile. The advances of technology. However the new one does drain over the side.

Lastly my bullet was not orginally equipped with A/C. Along the way someone ran wiring that runs through the trailer in the overhead cabinets and to the 14 X 14 Opening in the center of the trailer.

>>>>>>>>>>>Action

[Action]

Dont froget the electrical. Make sure it is off prior to disconection. If possible I will get the directions scanned and sent in. They are specific to Duo Therm however they are still usefull to other installations.

>>>>>>>>>>Action

P.S. Total time to R and R the units was about 4 hours. (with the mandatory beverage break)

[74Argosy24MH]

Take off the outside plastic cover and look for bolts into the pan. It has been awhile but it seems to me on my 74 there were some.

John

[overlander64]

RE: Modifications to Install Modern A/C in Place of Bay Breeze

Greetings Jason!

The modifications aren't as drastic as you might envision. The blocking was basically some treated dimensional lumber that was used as spacers between the inner and outer skins when the opening was cut for the new Air Conditioner. In addition, treated wood shims were used to gain the added support necessary due to the curvature of the roof. I believe that either 1961 or 1964 was the first year that Airstream coaches were pre-wired and braced for Air Conditioning - - so I doubt that you will need extra bracing unless something has been damaged over time. If my memory serves correct, the new Coleman that I have weighs about 22 pounds less than the old Bay Breeze. If the air conditioner is an Armstrong Bay Breeze, you can be fairly certain that it was either a factory installed option or one added aftermarket by an Airstream dealer.

The entire installed cost for my 13,000 BTU Coleman was $550.00 in 1998.

Kevin

[Rob]

Well it is finished...the A/C that is.

I went around the perimeter with the putty knife and found a few rivets that weren't cut. I removed as much of the sealant as possible. I then gave it a tug and it came loose. It is not light but I managed to throw it off the roof without damaging the coach.
What was left was a great looking area of undamaged plasticoated aluminum. I bet the trailer looked awsome back in 1972.
The forcast called for rain so I took a trip to the local metal recycler and purchased a 4' x 8' sheet of aluminum for 24 bucks. Cut a 16" x 16" peice, slapped some vulcem on it and went crazy with the rivets. It has been raining all day and no leaks there. Can't say a much for other areas though.

[rslaymaker]

Additional questions to the A/C removal thread that pertain to my trailer. I have three vent openings on my roof, one is directly behind the A/C unit. I am attempting to replace the glass window and install a popup vent, as I believe it was originally equipped. However, the current position of the A/C is blocking the opening of the pop-up vent. I need to move the A/C unit approximately 2-3 inches away from the vent opening. I have loosen all the A/C bolts (3) within the trailer, it appears that only putty and tar are holding the unit in place.

Is that possible? or can I be missing bolts elsewhere?
Can I slide the A/C unit forward a couple inches?
After installing the pop-up vent, how do I reattach the A/C unit?
What should I use to seal it with?

Attach is an illustration of my dilemma.http://www.airstreamphotos.com/photo...php?photo=2513

[overlander64]

Greetings Murphy!

RE: Repositioning the Air Conditioner

What you are proposing creates the potential for a number of problems, especially if your coach has one of the Armstrong Bay Breeze Units. If it is a Bay Breeze unit, it is not sitting in a typical 14" square vent opening; rather it has three strategically placed openings for the shafts that connect the inner and outer unit.

To reposition the unit, you will need to completely remove it then redrill the appropriate holes in the new location - - but ther is a BIG DANGER with this in that repositioning the unit will move it away from the factory installed supports which may cause structural problems. In addition, you would be adding additional holes penetrating the skin that might make for future leaks.

A simpler solution might be to install a Fantastic Vent Fan in the opening near the air conditioner unit that might more easily clear the air conditoner housing.

Kevin

[rslaymaker]

Kevin,

Thanks for your response. I will research the vent that you suggested in your note. I am still quite puzzled on how this A/C is attached. I have not located any bolts attaching the A/C to the trailer's roof. From inside the trailer, I have removed the casing and loosen three long bolts. However, the unit is still not budging. Can it be only held on by the tar and putty?

[74Argosy24MH]

If you have tar and putty, is this around a big metal pan? If it is dig down, there should be a whole bunch of rivets. These all have to be removed and the whole thing will come off.

John