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Old 07-02-2006, 09:18 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fastrob
We need a de-humidifier. A/c's act as de-humidifiers but cold, anyone use de-humidifiers?
As the following reply suggests, a dehumidifier is a refrigeration unit that collects water that collects on a cooled coil -- just like moisture on the outside of a glass of iced tea. Mechanical inefficiency being what it is, the heat produced by the unit does become an issue. They will do very little for humidity levels inside if you have a window open, so maybe you could run it when not 'home' and turn it off when you're back at the trailer.

Morningtime moisture on windows? Even in cold weather I leave several windows unlatched at the opposite end of the trailer so that exhaled moisture has a way to get out.
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Old 07-02-2006, 09:25 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ptrvr
When my a/c issues surfaced, I talked with a seemingly well informed hardware type at Home Depot about using a dehumidifier in mine. His comments were they work just like an a/c unit, except they dump the WARM dry air back in the trailer, meaning the a/c has to work harder to keep things cool. I'm so confused at this point I'm just sitting back and waiting for cooler weather as opposed to 95 degrees.

Greg
That idea would work to control humidity. That person was correct to state that a dehumidifier is really an air conditioner unit but instead of the cold air being exhausted into the surrounding clime, the cold air is directed back to the rear coils which are hot, thusly being warmed back up. That's why the heat from these units is usually a lot less that what a typical air conditioner exhausts.

But I would differ as to the statement that the A/C unit would be working harder. As a matter of fact your air conditioner cycle time would be even less since the air would be drier and the dehumidifier only runs when humidity exceeds the setting on the controls. This is due to the fact that extracting moisture from the air has a negative effect on the cooling process.

An air conditioner has two jobs to do and if you minimize the humidity, you lessen the workload. As more humidity is extracted from the air, the cooling process is improved and very easily can overcome any small amount of additional heat load that the dehumidifier puts out.

If you have a humidistat in a hot high humidity room, you will see a marked reduction in the time frame in temperature reduction, as the humidity falls.

Jack
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Old 07-02-2006, 09:32 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Canoe stream
Morningtime moisture on windows? Even in cold weather I leave several windows unlatched at the opposite end of the trailer so that exhaled moisture has a way to get out.
Nope the inside of the trailer is so cool that the moisture condenses on the outside. I remember the first year that Twinke came with his new Safari and his 15K air conditioner. He had the insides so cool that the outside window glass was sweating .

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Old 07-02-2006, 10:02 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ptrvr
Thanks for the replies. I have one of those indoor/outdoor thermometers so guess I'll put the outdoor unit buy the A/C, turn it down real cool, let her run and see what happens.

thanks

Greg
Turning the temp controls down so the ac does not cycle can in some cases cause "ice up" in the unit if the humity is high. If you notice "snow" being spit out of the ac this is about to happen. This will be followed by a reduction in air flow from the ac outlets.---pieman
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Old 07-02-2006, 10:18 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Lewis
Turning the temp controls down so the ac does not cycle can in some cases cause "ice up" in the unit if the humidity is high. If you notice "snow" being spit out of the ac this is about to happen. This will be followed by a reduction in air flow from the ac outlets.---pieman
I had this happen on my SOB down in Destin Fl. It ended up being a problem with my thermostat which caused the fan to shut down but not the compressor.

But it was interesting because the service guy noted that down in FL, and in a lot of high humidity locales, folks tend to run their fans on low speed. He noted that this tends to cause a lot of units to ice up due to the lower air flow. It might be wise to keep the fan speed on high to see if this helps in this scenario.

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Old 07-03-2006, 07:04 AM   #20
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Your problem could be several issues. But start with the simple things first and cheap things. You cant hurt it unless your up there with a hammer and ice pick.

Dirty/Clogged Condenser coil(exterior)sometimes not visible but enough to stop the heat transfer. If it hasnt been done I sure its in need of it.

Dirty/Clogged Evaporator coil(interior)

Filter

The worst could be the start of a small leak, getting a charge will only band-aid the problem because all AC and heat systems are sealed.

Most units need the cover taken off every preseason and the coil cleaned.


PS.....if you need more help let me know
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Old 07-03-2006, 10:34 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jcanavera
That idea would work to control humidity. That person was correct to state that a dehumidifier is really an air conditioner unit but instead of the cold air being exhausted into the surrounding clime, the cold air is directed back to the rear coils which are hot, thusly being warmed back up. That's why the heat from these units is usually a lot less that what a typical air conditioner exhausts.

But I would differ as to the statement that the A/C unit would be working harder. As a matter of fact your air conditioner cycle time would be even less since the air would be drier and the dehumidifier only runs when humidity exceeds the setting on the controls. This is due to the fact that extracting moisture from the air has a negative effect on the cooling process.

An air conditioner has two jobs to do and if you minimize the humidity, you lessen the workload. As more humidity is extracted from the air, the cooling process is improved and very easily can overcome any small amount of additional heat load that the dehumidifier puts out.

If you have a humidistat in a hot high humidity room, you will see a marked reduction in the time frame in temperature reduction, as the humidity falls.

Jack


Jack, your comments have me thinking about the de-humidifier more. Do you think there would be any value in exhausting the DH to the exterior or am I better off exhausting into the AS? Had the air on this weekend in 98 degree heat with AS in full all day sun. At hottest part of day, there was about a 16 degree variance between inside and outside temps but humidity was above 50% inside and pretty high outside. Don't really want to wag around a DH but I'm looking for comfort. Changing out the lower unit on the AC to put in a digital thermostat is possible but not sounding like the best solution.

Greg
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Old 07-03-2006, 10:58 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ptrvr
Jack, your comments have me thinking about the de-humidifier more. Do you think there would be any value in exhausting the DH to the exterior or am I better off exhausting into the AS? Had the air on this weekend in 98 degree heat with AS in full all day sun. At hottest part of day, there was about a 16 degree variance between inside and outside temps but humidity was above 50% inside and pretty high outside. Don't really want to wag around a DH but I'm looking for comfort. Changing out the lower unit on the AC to put in a digital thermostat is possible but not sounding like the best solution.

Greg
Greg,
I would expect to see better numbers then the ones you posted, but you did say that you were parked in full sun.
As far as venting the DH outside, I do not think that would be a good idea. The air that you remove from the inside of the trailer would have to be replaced by the more humid air from the outside.
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Old 07-03-2006, 11:12 AM   #23
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I too expected better numbers, if you are referring to the temp differentation. It ran all night on the lowest setting and was at 68 degrees at the beginning of the day but rose steadily all day. Temp at the vent at the hottest part of the day was about 15 degrees cooler than the inside temp. Could it be my issue is the AC is not cooling as good as it should?

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Old 07-03-2006, 11:19 AM   #24
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You might want to check the cold air exhaust from your A/C unit. You should be seeing a temperature drop of 15-20 degrees from intake to exhaust. If you aren't getting that drop, then the air conditioner is not operating properly.

Other things to check is the voltage to your trailer. Check it at the outlet and again inside the trailer as the A/C unit runs. Low voltage can cause problems.

While a dehumidifier will assist in getting that humidity down, I'm now a little more concerned that you don't have other issues at this time. My '01 27' Safari was unable to keep temps much below 85 in 100 degree full sun conditions. The dealer couldn't find any problems and I took the trailer to Jackson Center for further checking. The factory had noted that air intrusion was a concern of theirs. Apparently they have seen situations where the fridge compartment wasn't sealed properly which led to hot air geting up into the ceiling area. I did not have that problem. The ultimate finding was the 13.5K unit just wasn't up to keeping up when you are in weather like that. I learned to look for shady sites when I knew I was going to be in extreme heat.

BTW, I would not vent a dehumidifier outside since you do have to make up the lost air which would be more humidity laden. But before you deal further with the humidity, you need to look closer at this A/C unit. I would hope that its at least 13.5 K. I consider the dehumidifier solution only germane if you have enough cooling capacity in your air conditioner.

Those of you buying new who camp in hot climes should seriously consider stepping up one size on your airconditioner. Aluminum is not particularly good in reflecting the sun.

My 30' slide comes standard with a 13.5K air conditioner. This is totally inadequate when you get into really hot weather. I upgraded to the 15K unit at build time.
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Old 07-03-2006, 11:31 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jcanavera
You might want to check the cold air exhaust from your A/C unit. You should be seeing a temperature drop of 15-20 degrees from intake to exhaust. If you aren't getting that drop, then the air conditioner is not operating properly.

Other things to check is the voltage to your trailer. Check it at the outlet and again inside the trailer as the A/C unit runs. Low voltage can cause problems.

While a dehumidifier will assist in getting that humidity down, I'm now a little more concerned that you don't have other issues at this time. BTW, I would not vent outside since you do have to make up the lost air which would be more humidity laden. But before you deal further with the humidity, you need to look closer at this A/C unit. I would hope that its at least 13.5 K.
I stay confused. When I originally posted I was at a state park under good shade. This weekend I was in my driveway under direct sun. Voltage is good, running right around 118 to 120 volts. This non-classic AS came with the 11,000 btu A/C. Apparently the classics's get the larger unit. I'll do another check of intake and exhaust temps this weekend when I can bring it home again. One more comment. I have not heard another late model AS A/C running from the outside but the exterior sound from mine is not smooth. Hard to describe but doesn't sound smooth like a window unit in a house. Not talking about the compressor but rather, the fan.

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Old 07-03-2006, 11:36 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ptrvr
I stay confused. When I originally posted I was at a state park under good shade. This weekend I was in my driveway under direct sun. Voltage is good, running right around 118 to 120 volts. This non-classic AS came with the 11,000 btu A/C. Apparently the classics's get the larger unit. I'll do another check of intake and exhaust temps this weekend when I can bring it home again. One more comment. I have not heard another late model AS A/C running from the outside but the exterior sound from mine is not smooth. Hard to describe but doesn't sound smooth like a window unit in a house. Not talking about the compressor but rather, the fan.

Greg
While I can't comment about the sound, that 11K unit sounds to be a bit on the small size. It might be doing the best it can. I'm really beginning to think that you are undersized based on your clime.

Jack
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Old 07-03-2006, 11:56 AM   #27
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Thanks to all for comments and suggestions. Buying a new AC 3 months into ownership of a new AS doesn't seem right but I gues that is always an option. Reading in the Camping World comment section regarding Duo Therm AC's, they did not fair well. Comments were much more positive regarding Coleman.

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Old 07-03-2006, 12:09 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by ptrvr
Thanks to all for comments and suggestions. Buying a new AC 3 months into ownership of a new AS doesn't seem right but I gues that is always an option. Reading in the Camping World comment section regarding Duo Therm AC's, they did not fair well. Comments were much more positive regarding Coleman.

Greg
I know that I was spitting nails when I found out that my unit in my Safari was really undersized for the hot midwest. I think the other reason why the folks at JC wanted to see my unit was the fact that some trailers had slipped out of the factory with the wrong size A/C unit. They thought I might have had an 11K unit on my Safari.

It's interesting that a 25' gets and 11K unit and a 27' gets a 13.5. Believe it or not that 1.5 K makes a difference. I can tell it on my Classic going to the 15K unit. Can you imagine that at one time the standard for the 34' trailers was a single 13.5K unit? Let me tell you, I have been in multiple 34' units in hot weather, all sporting a single 13.5K air conditioner. Not one has been comfortable.

No matter the brand, you need to have the proper number of BTU's. This issue comes up every year with folks buying new trailers. That 11K unit should be relegated to the Bambi's. Anything 27' up needs the 15K unit. Everything else needs the 13.5K unit.

Jack
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