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Old 06-10-2008, 07:56 AM   #29
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i am having a really hard time finding even rough price ranges for these sleep cab options, anyone have links to that info?
The Danhard unit sell for around 2K. I was looking at this unit real hard but I can't justify the price for how much I might use it. By the way, the rep told me that it only pulls 7 amps of 120vac and the that is for the compressor only. The fans run on 12vdc.

I am going with the modified household route like UWE
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Old 06-10-2008, 11:11 AM   #30
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Originally Posted by Aerowood View Post
The Danhard unit sell for around 2K. I was looking at this unit real hard but I can't justify the price for how much I might use it. By the way, the rep told me that it only pulls 7 amps of 120vac and the that is for the compressor only. The fans run on 12vdc.

I am going with the modified household route like UWE
And so of course you'll provide full photo documentation on your thread, right?

Since I'm currently looking at a 50s model that never had an overhead AC, and I love the undisturbed roofline, I'm really interested in the modified household unit route as well. But I'll need something that will be able to withstand the Texas heat, which might be asking a bit much of this type of installation, I don't know...
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Old 06-10-2008, 12:37 PM   #31
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Rivka, others:

Here’s a couple of sites for more detail on the LG Mini Split units.

LG ART COOL - LG Global Site

L G Canada Artcool ductless air conditioners by lg contractor dealers


There are all kinds of split units out there: Mitsubishi, Sanyo, Panasonic, even Carrier (made in China).

I chose the LG Art Cool line because of its unique design. The other’s have internal blower units that are something like 10” square and 30” or 36” long.

In the Argosy, the only way to fit that in would be over the front windows which would despoil the front of the trailer by running lines over the glass expanse.

The Art Cool could be mounted on a bulkhead wall. It might be out of scale for the size of the Airstream but that is, to an extent, a matter of personal taste too. I think it fits the birch wood, aluminum and muted colors of my interior.

It’s not heavy. As I explained, the inside unit is only 15 pounds, 5” deep and 22” square.

As to vibration, my sense is that the tongue-mounted compressor is more solidly situated than a top-heavy rooftop would be.

When the trailer is moving you have the soft Airstream undulating torsion bar movement. When you’re parked with the AC on, the plant is rubber damper mounted, as it would be at your house.

Kathy in PA, the unit is 12,000 BTU. Installing a unit like this is probably more difficult than mounting an RV type rooftop, but not impossibly so. I made things difficult by trying to run the supply lines and a pocket door in the same 3 1/2” thick wall - but I did it.

The LG cost was $1944.00.

John/65CV: the top of the compressor is about 1-1/2” from the wall at the top, increasing to around 4” at the bottom (because the trailer wall slopes down). The specs call for 3-3/4”. I thought this would be OK.

Sleeper Cab A/C : This is a possible option too, I suppose. There are several manufacturers out there, including the big German company Webasto, operating in the USA out of Michigan.

http://www.webasto.us/am/en/am_trucks_aircon.html


It’s personal taste again but I find all of these truck units rough and industrial looking. I’m guessing it would be possible to find an AC repair man for a residential/ commercial split unit, even in the smallest town in America, but less likely for a sleeper cab unit. It’s all the same stuff basically but you have to get past the typical repairperson’s mindset.

The Webasto system is much bigger than mine and weights THREE times as much.

The many mini split systems usually use inverter technology to achieve small size and low noise and are pretty much superior to any wall or window-mounted plant. There are thousands of dealers out there now so you can easily go to see and listen to one nearby for yourself.


Sergei
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Old 06-10-2008, 12:43 PM   #32
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wow 2 k for units, that is disturbing, what is the going price fore a domestic penguin for comparison.
I think think i would pay a bit of a premium o have the style i want, but not a unrealistic amount more.
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Old 06-10-2008, 12:51 PM   #33
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in general does someone have guidelines for BTU size for size of the trailer?
I know a lot would depend on what environment it is or how cool you want it, but a general, all things being equal chart would be nice.

second question, beside for airflow issues that change drastically depending on where you mount a A/C, could you assume that two models with he same BTU's and same CFM's would cool the same amount?
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Old 06-10-2008, 02:27 PM   #34
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If you look at the Sears website and look up air conditioners. They tell you what size of room is suitable for the BTUs generated. That should work as a rough guide.
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Old 06-10-2008, 02:33 PM   #35
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well a in house vs trailer comparison is very different.
since those rooms are completely shaded on at least 2 sides and have a attic usually as well as much higher R value.

I have seen a house unit that was double sized for the actual SQFTage and still not do the job very good. So yeah it gives some basic info , but i would think that the rv a/c manufactures would give a guide as to what size to buy
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Old 06-10-2008, 09:36 PM   #36
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Have you checked their web sites to see? I'm sure they would have that sort of information. Failing that, you could e-mail them and ask for their data.
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Old 08-06-2008, 08:10 PM   #37
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Sergei,

is your unit running on 220?

i just starting back into this research and cant find them on the usa site and the canada ones run on 220 it seems, that would be a issue for plugging in around here?
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Old 08-06-2008, 08:36 PM   #38
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Rivka, we just got an interesting a/c unit that goes in the window, and hangs on the bottom window frame. Most of it would be outside the trailer, with only the controls and intake/output sticking into the trailer.You would open a window on your trailer, lift this up into it from outside, plug it in (inside), turn it on, and it cools. Condensate drips outside, and there is a rubber "foot" to hold the unit off the skin of the trailer.
When you are ready to leave, or weather conditions don't require a/c, it can be stowed in the back of your Jeep. Weight is about 50 pounds, maybe a bit less.
It is called a carry-on, and is intended for marine use.
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Old 08-06-2008, 09:24 PM   #39
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ooo that sounds nice and maybe a option for the summer, i am only seeing a unit that going on top on a overhead hatch, do you have a link or model number to one that fits on a vertical window. and how much did it put you back?
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Old 08-06-2008, 09:31 PM   #40
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ooo that sounds nice and maybe a option for the summer, i am only seeing a unit that going on top on a overhead hatch, do you have a link or model number to one that fits on a vertical window. and how much did it put you back?
It was a Craigslist purchase, so it was pretty inexpensive. It seems to be working very well vertically, rather than horizontal. A quick email query to them will tell if it will do any damage standing up versus laying down. I can post the reply here, unless you want to click the "contact them" button.
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Old 08-06-2008, 09:49 PM   #41
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do you have the Carry-On 7000 Portable Air Conditioner
seen here?
http://www.cruisair.com/sheets/L-0860.pdf
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Old 08-06-2008, 10:04 PM   #42
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hmm just read this in a installation manual:
"
8. If the Carry-On has been stored in any position other than
upright within 10 degrees of level, then, after installing, wait
30 minutes to allow compressor oil to settle to the bottom of
the compressor. Otherwise permanent damage may occur,
voiding the warranty."

and this later on
"Figures 3a & 3b. These figures show
proper and improper positioning and
leveling of the Carry-On unit in the
boat hatch. It is very important that
the Carry-On be level. "
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