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Old 06-16-2018, 10:49 AM   #57
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So are you claiming to be an expert pal ????
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Old 06-16-2018, 10:56 AM   #58
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I see no way that you could do anything from above because it is all hooked up from underneath. It is tight in there. Removing the cover and the plate that bolts down the unit is easy, a six minute job at most. Just make sure you use a cordless drill to remove the five bolts, they are very long, it would take ages if done with a wrench.
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Old 06-16-2018, 11:22 AM   #59
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i have just installed one of these, < snip >
Oh, I really wish that you lived just up the street! So, I've got all the "stuff" to pull my A/C and re-install the thing right, but this is certainly more than a one [old] man job! I could sure use your experienced help... and after we were done, I'd spring for some world class Mexican food over in Fort Worth.

I'm sure I can find a willing - and brave - helper... looking forward to a happy ending.
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Old 06-16-2018, 11:59 AM   #60
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I have a great idea. AirForums should block the trolls, the pseudo experts and the know it alls. If you are in one of those categories, you are doing a great job of making this forum useless. If I were to speculate, I would guess that you are here to convert people to the 5 year throw a way fiberglass boxes. Your anti quality control rhetoric does absolutely nothing to enhance this forum and it certainly does not help anyone. Please go away.
I'd like to know just how you decide who are "trolls, pseudo experts and know it alls"? Someone who disagrees with you? Any social media has problematical people, but it is up to each of us to decide who they are. A large panel of experts, highly paid, might be able to do it. Send a million dollars to me and I'll set up the system.

Quality control has been a problem for years with Airstreams. At times the company has expanded and hired a lot of newbies. They don't pay employees all that well and may not train them well either. Management cuts corners and buys inferior products. All this and more has been documented for the 11 years I have been on this Forum. Last year we sold our Airstream because the appliances were getting old and starting to give problems, plus we needed a little more space. The Nash we bought has had some warranty issues, but nothing like we experienced in 2007 and after with the Safari. The dealer was so bad we took the trailer to Jackson Center twice to get things fixed at the factory. The Airstream was fun and we traveled 62,000 miles with it. We did many improvements to it, mostly because of poor materials or workmanship. It was time for it to go.

It is common on this Forum to insult "thrown away fiberglass boxes". Some deserve it. For example, Thor Industries products are inferior and do deteriorate fast. But some company do make better products and that is why we bought a Northwoods Mfg. product. They make Arctic Fox and Nash. Not perfect and some corners cut as well, but fairly good. If you want to live in a world where there is no criticism, this is not the place. Maybe you should go away.
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Old 06-16-2018, 12:01 PM   #61
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Posters are talking about different A/C's and different trailer models. Please specify what you are advising about because installations are different.

Gene
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Old 06-16-2018, 01:03 PM   #62
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Posters are talking about different A/C's and different trailer models. Please specify what you are advising about because installations are different.

Gene
Excellent point. So, as the starter of this thread, I'll go first :

2014 International Serenity 23D, 13,500 BTU Dometic Penguin Ii
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Old 06-17-2018, 07:53 AM   #63
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It took three of us to get the unit in the roof using a step ladder and a straight ladder. I am sixty and big, not fat big. One issue to remember is where you kneel or stand when up there. Only on the rivet line above the ribs.
The sealant you use on sealing the gasket to the Airstream is called Sikaflex 221 Airstream is using another product now after using Sikaflex for many years, it is cheaper by about $2 a tube. One tube is more than enough for the job. And this is applied inside the Airstream, the AC unit just sits up there on the gaskets.
There really is nothing difficult about doing this job yourself.
I just remembered to say, when removing the unit myself from the roof. I slid it onto a large towel, and pulled it to the edge. Then with the ladder top resting on the awning, I lifted her over and slid it down the ladder, with me descending. Another pair of hands would have been nice. Just remember to get the balance right as one end is light and the other end has the weight if you lower it down sideways.....
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Old 06-17-2018, 07:56 AM   #64
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I installed a Dometic Penguin 11 the 15,000 btu, it is the same weight and size as the 13,000 btu unit.
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Old 06-18-2018, 06:56 AM   #65
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< snip >
The sealant you use on sealing the gasket to the Airstream is called Sikaflex 221 Airstream is using another product now after using Sikaflex for many years, it is cheaper by about $2 a tube. One tube is more than enough for the job. And this is applied inside the Airstream, the AC unit just sits up there on the gaskets.
< snip >
Thanks, "jmpgino" your installation comments are helpful. I will not remove the A/C from the roof of the Airstream. My plan is to construct a plywood 'platform' running from the side of the A/C (curb side) outward about six feet. This will be supported by a makeshift scaffold attached to the support poles of our metal cover. I intend to remove the holding bolts and rotate the A/C sideways onto its back... I will have a helper, so this will be a two-person job. With the unit on its back like a dead cockroach, I will remove the existing gasket and drain cups assembly, replacing with the all-new stuff that I picked up on Amazon. Then, my helper and I will rotate this sucker upright again and position it carefully over the opening and complete the installation.

You mentioned sealant (above quoted post), but Dometic's installation make no mention of any sealant except for where the drain tubes go through the gasket... no sealant is called for on the gasket-to-roof interface. What about that?

Thanks again,

Rob
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Old 06-18-2018, 10:07 AM   #66
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Question: can the a/c condensate design and tube handle ALL the water and send it down by the wheel or is it normal to have some water run off the roof?
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Old 06-18-2018, 10:48 AM   #67
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Question: can the a/c condensate design and tube handle ALL the water and send it down by the wheel or is it normal to have some water run off the roof?
Sure, the drain system would easily handle the condensate... if there is water on the roof, it's because the drain isn't working as designed.
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Old 06-18-2018, 10:53 AM   #68
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Sigh...bummer
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Old 06-18-2018, 10:54 AM   #69
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Sigh...bummer
Sorry 'bout that. 😞
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Old 06-19-2018, 09:25 AM   #70
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Wel RFP, when you remove the two bottom covers inside you should see a bead of Sikaflex or the newer cheaper stuff Airstream is now using, between the aluminium box in the roof and the lower gasket. Now when I say box, I have a framed in box where the wires enter from inside the walls and the exit condes ate line showing through.
Airstream says they put this extra sealant on for security.
I have an image of the inside of mine showing the set up after putting the new unit on. I don’t know how to post images from my iPad, I resent you my correct email again last night.
Now those of you asking about the lines ability to drain, you are in for a surprise here, so take a deep breath.......
Owners with this new condensate set up are reporting water running off the roof. They have discovered mold build up in the lines. This does not surprise me as the old pan system was built in such a way the water went into a small chamber that exited into the drain line with gravity, this prevented water remaining inside the unit.
Now there is simply no way that the new lines can be installed without an amount of water remaining inside the condensate lines. I bolted up my bottom plate leaving enough space for me to get my hand in side. While the unit was running and draining, (with the help of a head light and welders mirror) I adjusted the pipes as best I could before finally tightening the unit down. I was unable to get any position where water was not being retained in the lines.
So with that said, I will down here in Georgia no doubt have the same mound slime blocking the lines.
The two cups on the roof have two small run off slots if the there is a blockage in the system. I plan to use a syringe and inject some diluted bleach or something like that into the cups. Some people have been using weed wacker line, going up from below in the wheel well. Some have considered using compressed air. And some have gone the longer route, removing the bottom plates inside.
The reason Airstream stopped using the old pan method was due to the pans cracking and causing water leaks in the roof.
My old unit still has the pan, I seriously considered removing it and attaching it onto my new unit but gave up on the idea.
Just for a laugh here, I am going to remove the blower unit and turn it into a swamp cooler. With some welding and or soldering, I should be able to make it small enough to take away with us and use on the patio. Will most likely fabricate the box and pan from stainless steel, the water well will certainly be SS.
Anyhow sorry for the bad news but one more bad bit for you is that those of you, who do not have the extra gasket will find it near impossible to use my method of injection into the cups, they are on the roof and nigh on impossible to access.
Cheers for now,
James.
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