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Old 06-08-2018, 10:04 AM   #29
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Originally Posted by A W Warn View Post
RFP,
Nice work. Would you mind sharing a source and name for those plugs. Looks like the same size as live well plug, but have not seen that type with the SS screw.

GammaDog is correct about the two gaskets. Lewster recommended that to me. The cups on the AC I installed set about 1" above the metal. I wonder if contact with the roof (bounce/shock) while in transit might crack the plastic cup.
Good day, Alan

I bought the well nuts at my local Ace Hardware; also the 1/4-20 stainless machine screws and 1/4" stainless washers. I am fortunate that my local Ace Hardware is one of those that stock all kinds of really hard-to-find goodies.

You can buy them from McMaster-Carr... these are the ones: https://www.mcmaster.com/#93495a321/=1d72xi4

This is really a no-brainer... the "missing gasket" is simply stupid on the part of Airstream.
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Old 06-08-2018, 10:11 AM   #30
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RFP: I see you're a rivet master (and from your ingenuity and sharing, I see why) so you probably know that Lewster posts a lot here including about AC leaks. I recall reading a post of his that described how Airstream uses a single gasket installation for the Penguin II while other RV manufacturers use Dometic's standard two-gasket approach. His belief expressed in that post was that many AS leaks would be avoided with the second gasket. If you have to pull your roof top unit anyway, you may want to look into that post to see if it makes sense to install the second gasket Lewster described.
Good day, G'Dog... thank you so much for bring this to my attention.

Yep, a close inspection shows that I, too, have just one gasket installed by Airstream. For the first time, I am thoroughly irritated at Airstream for willfully choosing to disregard a manufacturer's clear instructions. D***it, they chose to create a problem.

As you can see from the photos I posted earlier in this thread, my "cups" are tight down on the roof aluminum. Also, looking inside, I can see that the drain tube from the offending side is "squeezed" by the gasket quite a bit... enough to stop flow? I don't know, but it is squeezed.

Sheesh... Now, I've got to figure out how I can fix this all by myself. I wonder if I could remove all of the interior parts, lift - and prop up - the A/C and do the "re-gasketing" by working through the hole.

I'm open to any and all suggestions... I am determined to get this thing installed RIGHT, and, as I said, I'll likely be doing it alone.

So irritating.
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Old 06-08-2018, 10:35 AM   #31
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When I had my new Dometic 15K unit I decided to go with the drain cups. After it was installed some of the condensate would drip on the roof. It was more apparent if the trailer was even slightly not level. Then drain kit Dometic supplied has unequal hose lengths before the T. The hose from the T had a slight U before connecting to the trailers drain tube. I discussed this with Paul at A&P and he installed equal tube lengths upstream from the T and took out the slight U in the downstream tube which I felt was creating a small P trap and restricting water flow. Making these changes seemed to correct the issue even it the trailer was not perfectly level. We also punched low pressure warwe up the drain tube and verified the flow back out.
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Old 06-08-2018, 10:47 AM   #32
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< snip > I discussed this with Paul at A&P and he installed equal tube lengths upstream from the T and took out the slight U in the downstream tube ... < snip >
Thanks Kelvin, for reminding that Paul is just 40 miles up the road and would make short work of this drain nonsense!

Glad you got you condensate woes all solved... I hope to join you soon in that achievement.

You guys doing OK? Linda had back surgery last Tuesday, so we are homebound for a while (?)... hoping to be able to get back to Blue Spruce in mid to late August.
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Old 06-08-2018, 11:52 AM   #33
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When I had my new Dometic 15K unit < snip >
Kelvin,

Did Paul install using the "two gaskets" as per Dometic's instructions?
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Old 06-08-2018, 12:59 PM   #34
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Well our 2011 Dometic 13,500 AC unit went out last month. I decided to do the replacement myself. Worked with Dometic and Airstream and got the Penguin unit from PPL Motorhomes for $985. Has to order the gasket and cup set and paid around $95 for it, a rip off as it is just the gasket, three bits of pipe and two cups. I later found Amazon had it for around $55 free shipping.
Anyhow fitting the gasket and cups involved cutting a hole for the two lines through the upper gasket, then sealed using Airstreams recommended sealant.
Once on the roof and positioned, it was easy to hook up with the exception of the drain lines. If only one gasket is used then when tightening the unit down the gasket will crush the drain lines, this set up has to have the extra gasket in place. Now the biggest issue for me was where to connect the T supplied, I went through various scenarios because the final drain line must not buckle, so I used a long sweep on it. Got to re connect the bottom plate carefully because the power lines and especially the 120 Volt metal box can easily get in the way and crush the drain lines. So I gradually tightened the five bolts and using my hands moved the offending lines out of the way of the condensate lines. Tightening the gasket started to worry me, they said 50 Inch lbs of torque. Well I watched the gasket get crushed and kept looking on the roof and was getting worried as I had not even heard a click on the torque wrench and it had it set at its lowest 20 inch lbs !!!!!
I gave up tightening it any more because the roof was starting to show bowing.
Anyhow when the unit is running you can see the draining from below. I will re check the five bolts at a later date.
One thing not mentioned here, the cups are just screwed into the unit, no gasket. There are two small water run out areas built into each cup in case there is a blockage.
It took three of us to get the unit on the roof, I am sixty. Used a step ladder and a straight ladder, distanced apart the length of the unit and some. Lifted one end of the unit onto the top of the step ladder, I held the opposite end, two climb the ladder and lift the unit on the roof. Easy......
And by the way the unit is quieter and starts easier than the old one.
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Old 06-08-2018, 01:41 PM   #35
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Originally Posted by RFP View Post
Good day, Alan

I bought the well nuts at my local Ace Hardware; also the 1/4-20 stainless machine screws and 1/4" stainless washers. I am fortunate that my local Ace Hardware is one of those that stock all kinds of really hard-to-find goodies.

You can buy them from McMaster-Carr... these are the ones: https://www.mcmaster.com/#93495a321/=1d72xi4

This is really a no-brainer... the "missing gasket" is simply stupid on the part of Airstream.
Thanks!
Great idea! Since it is such a simple solution I might do it too, even though I've not had that problem. ….. yet.
An ounce of prevention....
Did you use something like Wet and Forget in the cups, or bleach?
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Old 06-08-2018, 01:50 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KJRitchie View Post
When I had my new Dometic 15K unit I decided to go with the drain cups. After it was installed some of the condensate would drip on the roof. It was more apparent if the trailer was even slightly not level. Then drain kit Dometic supplied has unequal hose lengths before the T. The hose from the T had a slight U before connecting to the trailers drain tube. I discussed this with Paul at A&P and he installed equal tube lengths upstream from the T and took out the slight U in the downstream tube which I felt was creating a small P trap and restricting water flow. Making these changes seemed to correct the issue even it the trailer was not perfectly level. We also punched low pressure warwe up the drain tube and verified the flow back out.
I installed mine myself. I had a similar issue. It took some experimenting to figure out the problem. I don't think it is about equal length as much as getting the tube to lay correctly once the cover is installed. Those tubes on mine were so long they would kink/bend partially closed.
In the last year or two the Dometic installation instructions have been changed to include directions to cut the tube at the point where connects to the cups, short enough to keep tube flat where it is crosses over the air distribution box.
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Old 06-10-2018, 10:04 AM   #37
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I had the same problem, so I did some research on the Airstream forums. One AS owner explained that the A/C condensate cups drain through clear plastic tubing routed down through the skin of the AS to the the wheel well. Apparently the tubing is bent to make a 90 degree turn up under the lower cover, and the tubing often gets kinked in the process. I removed my lower A/C cover so I could see and access the tubing and, sure enough, the tubing was kinked shut. I cut the kink out and replaced it with a barbed 90 degree elbow I bought at the hardware store. Problem solved!

Oh and I also put an insect screen on the end of the tubing in the wheel well, just in case.
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Old 06-10-2018, 06:19 PM   #38
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There should be a plastic cup on each side the air conditioner. The cups collect the condensate and are drained by the tube. If the cups are in contact with the roof, they can crack and allow the condensate to run out onto the roof. Replacing the cups requires removing the air conditioner. This is a job for Airstream service. Make sure they have the proper gasket for a re-install. IT IS A SPECIAL GASKET. If your local service dealer tryís to jury rig the install, you will have nothing but problems. I know, I had to take my Airstream back to Jackson Center after my local Airstream dealer tried to juryrig the re-install.
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Old 06-10-2018, 06:47 PM   #39
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There should be a plastic cup on each side the air conditioner. The cups collect the condensate and are drained by the tube. If the cups are in contact with the roof, they can crack and allow the condensate to run out onto the roof. Replacing the cups requires removing the air conditioner. This is a job for Airstream service. Make sure they have the proper gasket for a re-install. IT IS A SPECIAL GASKET. If your local service dealer try’s to jury rig the install, you will have nothing but problems. I know, I had to take my Airstream back to Jackson Center after my local Airstream dealer tried to juryrig the re-install.
I wonder if Jackson Center "re-installed" your air-conditioner correctly. If they re-installed like they are installing the air-conditioners on new trailers, you may still have problems. Actually, I would not let Airstream Service do this work for me unless I was assured that Dometic's instructions would be followed to the letter.

Airstream IS NOT installing these air-conditioners per Dometic's clear instructions. Proper installation required TWO gaskets. The use of only one (as is Airstream's practice) leads to a high probability of one or both condensate drain lines being "squeezed" and perhaps will lead to a leaky A/C installation, and perhaps the cups themselves being broken or otherwise compromised. This "two gasket" protocol has been discussed elsewhere in the Forum, and you can read it for yourself in the instructions PDF attached below.

The drip cup kit can be purchased here (notice it comes with ONE gasket): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The second gasket here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Dometic's installation instructions are in the attached PDF. http://www.vintagetrailersupply.com/...structions.pdf
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Old 06-11-2018, 05:50 PM   #40
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Glad to see an "improvement" in the A/C drain system. Our 2008 did clog once and I blew it out with an air compressor. If you are worried about two much pressure, many compressors can be set to lower pressure. If pressure can't be reduced, just let some of the air leak where you put the hose to the bottom of the tube. And with the wonderful T system, one person can be in the trailer with a finger over one tube while another runs the compressor. Then reverse finger to make sure the other side is clear.

When ours got blocked, it started dripping inside. I think I first blew it out with my massive lung power and it worked. Made sure with compressor once I was home. But if the new "improved" system only leaks onto the roof, so what? Let is wash the roof and take care of it at your leisure.

Another way to wash the roof is to backflush the black tank until water comes out of the vent near the toilet. A veritable water fall down the side of the trailer. A water feature that will make your trailer the talk of the campground. Happens most often at campgrounds with very high water pressure that fills the black tank faster than you can imagine. And how handy—you may want a shower after cleaning the black tank, but you can get one at the same time!

Gene
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Old 06-11-2018, 06:53 PM   #41
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The photos were on another thread so may have been missed by some here. Gene, my air pressure system is me on the other end of the tube stuck in the funnel that is stuck into the condensate line. Crude but works, as long as I have a little air in my lungs. Click image for larger version

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Old 06-11-2018, 07:00 PM   #42
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The photos were on another thread so may have been missed by some here. Gene, my air pressure system is me on the other end of the tube stuck in the funnel that is stuck into the condensate line. Crude but works, as long as I have a little air in my lungs. Attachment 313759yAttachment 313760
The problem: when there are two outlets, the one that is not blocked will allow the air to escape, while leaving the blocked one still blocked.
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