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Old 11-19-2013, 05:33 PM   #1
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'66 Tradewind Furnace Size Advice

I've search, but not found the information I wanted. I am replacing the furnace in my trailer. I understand a 24k BTU furnace was original equipment. My trailer came without the furnace.

What would be the best size furnace for this old 24 foot trailer? My 86 had 24s in it, and I replaced them with 30s. I find the trailer heats too fast and I don't get good circulation. It's 80 degrees at the cieling, and 65 at the floor. I bet the $3.00 made in china two wire thermostats play a role in this problem.

So I just don't want to blindly install a Surban NT30 furnace in this trailer without some advice from you experienced Airstreamers.

David
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Old 11-19-2013, 05:53 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by dbj216 View Post
I've search, but not found the information I wanted. I am replacing the furnace in my trailer. I understand a 24k BTU furnace was original equipment. My trailer came without the furnace.

What would be the best size furnace for this old 24 foot trailer? My 86 had 24s in it, and I replaced them with 30s. I find the trailer heats too fast and I don't get good circulation. It's 80 degrees at the cieling, and 65 at the floor. I bet the $3.00 made in china two wire thermostats play a role in this problem.

So I just don't want to blindly install a Surban NT30 furnace in this trailer without some advice from you experienced Airstreamers.

David
An NT-30 would be perfect for your climate and needs.

Andy
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Old 11-20-2013, 07:23 PM   #3
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Okay Andy, thanks for the advice. Your experience means a lot to me. The NT-30 maybe is the most common Surban furnace. They are readily available.

I'll be sure to open all the knock outs and run ducting forward, aft, and down to the "basement" to keep the waste water tanks warm. I don't want the furnace "guts" to overheat during it's burn cycle. I can always crack a vent if it gets too hot in the trailer.

David
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Old 11-21-2013, 04:01 PM   #4
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I have a 30' classic with a 34,000 BTU Atwood furnace. It is sufficient to keep the trailer warm well into sub zero temps.

I think an NT-30 would be way too large for a Tradewind.

Suburban makes an NT-20 and an SF-20 that would IMO be much better choices.
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Old 11-21-2013, 04:32 PM   #5
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The NT-30 needs 3 outlets according to the service tech I spoke with at the factory back when I was working on my Trade Wind. My 68 Trade Wind has only 2 heat duct outlets. I spoke with the factory twice about which furnace would be appropriate. Since I did not want to add another outlet and since there was only one furnace that would fit the original ducting (and it needed 3 outlets) I opted to just remove it. At campgrounds we use a small electric and at the farm I use a catalytic. The winter wx in Mississippi isn't usually very cold (and if it is we don't go camping anyway). The freed up space in the cabinet under the sink is were we store the microwave. There have bee a couple of times that a forced air furnace would have been nice but considering the extra space we are happy with our choice and have never been cold in weather down to freezing.
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Old 12-06-2013, 06:52 PM   #6
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'66 Tradewind Furnace Replacement

Can you tell me how you replaced the furnace in your Trade Wind? The Suburban NT 30 is 24" deep. The cabinet under the sink is 19" deep.

I see the Suburban SF-30Q is 20" deep. It would fit with significant modifications to the cabinet under the sink.

What furnace best fits in the mid sixties Trade Wind?

Thanks,

David
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Old 12-06-2013, 07:08 PM   #7
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I investigated a 30K BTU heater for my 68 TW. I called the factory twice while trying to decide what to do. The tech support guy said that the 30K BTU units needed 3 outlets. My 68 TW had two. I opted to not replace the furnace and use small electrics when I have power or a small catalytic at the farm Of course Mississippi weather and Minnesota weather are just a little different. I would suggest you call the tech support at the factory in Dayton TN. The guy I spoke with was very nice and very knowledgable. Might help clear up some questions.
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Old 12-06-2013, 10:39 PM   #8
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Remember the furnace cabinet goes through a cutout in the interior wall and touches the exterior wall directly. That gives you an extra 2 + inches.
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Old 12-07-2013, 07:15 AM   #9
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I installed two new NT 30s in my 86 Limited. The furnace combustion air inlet and exhaust is piped to the exterior wall. There are two steel tubes that allow some adjustment for exterior and interior wall thickness. The actually furnace cabinet doesn't touch the exterior wall. For a Suburban NT 30 I need 24 inches of cabinet depth. My Trade Wind has 19.

I can only imagine the 1966 furnace was completely different. The exterior door allowed servicing the furnace.

I'm hoping I can use the Trade Wind nifty existing under the floor duct work with a new furnace. I want the new furnace to allow bottom discharge of warm air. The Suburban furnaces do this. This provides a convenient way to dirtribute warm air to the rear bath as well as the waste water tanks.

I can't find a furnace that fits in the Trade Wind. The Suburban SP 30 is 20 inches deep. It is a low profile at only 8" high, but it is 17" wide with different ducting. Atwood doesn't give cabinet dimensions in their catalog, but sure brag a lot about their automatic thermostats.

Others have successfully installed a new furnace in an old Airstream Trade Wind. Maybe someone can help out an old man!

David
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Old 12-07-2013, 07:22 AM   #10
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I am resurecting this thread as I need some help. I was all set using a Suburban NT 30 furnace only to discover the Trade Wind under the sink cabinet is only 19" deep. Suburban NT series furnaces are 24" deep.

Does anyone know of a "compact" RV furnace that would fit in a small cabinet?

David
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Old 12-07-2013, 08:46 AM   #11
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How about one or two of these little propex heaters?
Westy Ventures / Propex heaters
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Old 12-07-2013, 05:40 PM   #12
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Upon Further Review

I did some more investigating today. Irobra said the furnace sits against the exterior wall. This is correct. So I gain 2" there. Thanks for suggesting this.

The sink cabinet has a "toe clearance" feature that most counter cabinets have. The sink cabinet face is inset 3" from the stove cabinet face. If I elevate the furnace 3" and reconfigure the cabinet face, I can fit the furnace under the galley sink and re-create the toe space. The cabinet is exactly 24 inches inside wall to outside face. And I can fabricate duct work that allows me to use the existing Trade Wind under floor ducts.

I think a Suburban furnace might work after all. Has anyone installed a Suburban NT 30 in an old Trade Wind?

David
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Old 12-07-2013, 05:57 PM   #13
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I installed a new NT-32 into our '74 Sovereign spring of last year. I adapted the existing plenum (an air distributing box upon which the old heater sat) to use with the new furnace.

The story really begins about here: http://www.airforums.com/forums/f221...ml#post1160707

The plenum was connected to two vents: one went straight to the rear bathroom and is about 20 feet long, and the other one goes through a short path to the lounge area. Yes, only two outlets where the instructions insisted on three, but it has worked well for us for the past two operating seasons.

Anyway, it's not your model or year of trailer, but it looks a lot like ours...
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Old 12-07-2013, 06:37 PM   #14
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Thanks Aage for the link to your thread. I need a "Mike" to help me out. Looks like you had to elevate your new NT 30 to match the outside combustion air manifold, and fabricate new duct work to allow the NT 30 to blow warm air into your floor ducts.

It doesn't look like you had to modify your cabinetry to make it fit. Unfortunately I will have to do this too. I'm kinda starting from a clean slate so to speak. At least I don't have to worry about the exterior piping as I'm going to have to make a new piece of skin there too.

Thanks again,

David
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