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Old 12-07-2013, 06:48 PM   #15
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If you look at the photos again, you can see a perforated stock (the two rails) which were used to raise the new furnace by 1 1/2" so that the fresh air / exhaust piping could meet with the existing holes in the external body.

Had we not worried about that, we could have simply made new holes in the body, patched the original holes, and placed the new furnace directly where the old one was, right on the plenum.

You're right, no cabinetry was changed.
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Old 12-08-2013, 09:15 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by Mcdenny View Post
How about one or two of these little propex heaters?
Westy Ventures / Propex heaters
Denny

Thanks for the info on the Propex furnaces. I have looked at the specs and I like what I see. I would probably go with the 9,000 btu/hr size. It is a little smaller than I would like, but it would probably heat my Tradewind fine down to about 30-40 degrees which probably is as cold as it will get with me camping in it.

I like the stainless steel heat exchanger and the low current flow. I did not see any specs on efficiency.

The installation photos really were dissappointing. Most all of them seem to be going in Westys and very few shots of the inlet and exhaust piping.

It looks to be a lot smaller than the Suburban furnaces which should make installation easier with more flexibility for ductwork design.

It is more money, but has some advantages with maybe better efficiency, smaller, stainless steel heat exchanger, etc., so it might be worth while to give it a try.

Seems like it just may be a great furnace option for small Airstreams and other small trailers. If it takes two of them, I would not go that route; I would just install a larger rv furnace.

Dan
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Old 12-09-2013, 07:59 AM   #17
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The manufacturers web site has a lot more info
Propex HS2800 heater - High output, blown air space heater gas powered

It notes input is 3000 watts, output 2800 watts (9000 btu/hr)

We can keep our 17' fiberglass trailer with 3/8 foam core insulation warm enough with a 1500 watt electric heater (5100 btu max). Camped once in the 20s, chilly but not too bad. Plenty of heat for 40s.

Your AS is quite a bit bigger but probably much better insulated too.
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Old 12-16-2013, 05:20 PM   #18
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I bit the bullet and purchased a Suburban NT 30 SP. It is 23" long by 12 square. I've decided to elevate it about 3 1/2 inches off the floor. The furnace will be against the exterior wall. I will have to move the galley sink lower cabinet face out to flush with the stove cabinet. I will use as much of the original cabinet face as possible, and I will mount a meshed opening like my 86 so the furnace will draw air. And I will fabricate a 3" toe clearance. My toes will be nice and toasty under the furnace cabinet on cold mornings while doing dishes.

I'm going to duct warm air out the bottom of the furnace into a below floor duct work to the tank pan, and to the rear bath. It's a long run, but the extra BTU of the NT 30 ought to keep up. I will have a couple of 4" rounds to heat the front room and bedroom. It will be a month before I install the furnace as I have my plumbing to do first.

Thanks for all your help. I will post an update when I get the thing installed and functioning.

David
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Old 12-17-2013, 08:14 AM   #19
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Just to be clear, this is for the Tradewind, right?
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Old 12-17-2013, 05:25 PM   #20
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Yep, an old 1966 Trade Wind. I've been quite pleased with it. Nice size, decent layout. My new Suburban furnace ought to melt the snow off the roof! We will be nice an warm anyway.

David
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Old 12-19-2013, 06:44 AM   #21
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I need your advice again!

Does anyone know the hot air exit temperature for a Suburban NT 30? I ask as I need to know how to build and insulate the below floor plenum for this furnace. I wonder if the exit air temp is 140 degrees or 200 degrees. I don't want the plenum to get too hot and be a fire hazzard.

David
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Old 12-19-2013, 07:14 AM   #22
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Most high temp limit switches are 190-210.
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Old 12-20-2013, 09:32 AM   #23
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Thank you TOP. I'm sure I will build my plenum out of furnace sheet metal and insure it is well protected on the outside. I don't want a dust bunny flaring up on me. The original 66 Trade Wind had "reverse flow" where cool air was drawn into the furnace through the ducts under the floor. So the plenums were fabricated of plywood. Wouldn't be safe blowing 190 degree air down them.

David
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Old 12-21-2013, 08:01 PM   #24
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David

I am a home inspector and am used to seeing outlet temperatures of 130-150 degrees. I just measured the outlet temp in my new to me 1995 34' (35,000 btu/hr input) and it reached 182 degrees. Yikes, I was surprised.

Dan
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Old 12-22-2013, 07:11 AM   #25
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Thank you Touring Dan for your expert observations. 180 degree outlet temps convinces me to build the plenum in sheet metal with good insulation around it. It may be that a 30k BTU Suburban won't get 180 degree hot, but I'm not going to build the plenum out of plywood.

Congratulations on your 34 Airstream. We love ours for taking long trips. I could easily full time in it. I know you will devise improvements making it even more efficient and comfortable.

David
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Old 01-02-2014, 10:05 AM   #26
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New Thermostat

I'm back!

The old Trade Wind has a 1966 Honeywell thermostat on the front, curb side wall above the gaucho. Mine is broken, missing the adjustment lever. I removed it and note it is labeled 120 volts.

My new Suburban NT 30 SP furnace has a very cheap white plastic two wire thermostat that works on a bimetal spring. It says Suburban on it. I am not impressed with this thermostat.

I'm wanting an old fashioned "Honeywell Round" type. I don't need a programmable digital one. I do need it to operate on 12v I believe. I have not found a source for RV thermostats. I only see the fancy programmable ones or climate control ones. I just need a good old fashioned two wire thermostat.

Have any of you got a good thermostat recommendation?

David
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Old 01-02-2014, 11:14 AM   #27
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I'm back!

The old Trade Wind has a 1966 Honeywell thermostat on the front, curb side wall above the gaucho. Mine is broken, missing the adjustment lever. I removed it and note it is labeled 120 volts.

My new Suburban NT 30 SP furnace has a very cheap white plastic two wire thermostat that works on a bimetal spring. It says Suburban on it. I am not impressed with this thermostat.

I'm wanting an old fashioned "Honeywell Round" type. I don't need a programmable digital one. I do need it to operate on 12v I believe. I have not found a source for RV thermostats. I only see the fancy programmable ones or climate control ones. I just need a good old fashioned two wire thermostat.

Have any of you got a good thermostat recommendation?

David
Actually there is nothing wrong with the New Suburban thermostat that came with your new furnace. It may look cheap, but they work pretty well and have a positive OFF feature many thermostats don't have.

If you want a different one you will need to be sure it will work with the 12 volt furnace system. I have found that most any of the current home thermostats which have a battery in them will work with the Suburban Furnace as the battery supplies the thermostat power, and operates a relay internally which controls the furnace.

The old Honeywell round thermostat was a great unit, but not at all suitable for an RV. They had a mercury switch in them, and were very sensitive to level, and we all know that RV's are often a bit off level. In addition, even the new Honeywell round units which no longer have a mercury switch in them are designed for 24 volt AC use, not 12 volt DC as the furnace needs.

Again, if you find one which has a battery in it, most likely it will work with your furnace.
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Old 01-02-2014, 05:26 PM   #28
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Thanks Idroba. I find the Suburban thermostats do work. I had some trouble setting the anticipator, but I think it was just me. I didn't think of a battery powered one and will look around in the big box store.

David
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