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Our 59 has a early forced air heater. Looking at it it does not appear to have been used much. Not sure when it was last used. The blower motor needs to be dissassembled and cleaned I know. Going to inspect the exchanger and check it for cracks. My worry is the control valves.
I hope to use the coach year round. It needs heat and there will be occasions where we boondock. My concern with a new heater is geting it to mount in the factory location without having to add a access door or hightly modify the cabinets.
Right now the heater mounts under the Stove. The face of the unit is towards the Goucho. It pulls combustion air through the floor and vents it out the side. It blows the heater air towards the front of the coach but it does have an eisiting diverter and a duct could easily be run to blow out the base board of the galley near the rear.
I am about to repair the floor and restore the cabinets so now is the time to decide if this heater will be retained or replaced. I have a small ceramic propane portable heater. My concern is kids messing with it and you have to open the vents to use it. Electric portables is again a concern with small kids.
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1959 22' Caravanner
1988 R20 454 Suburban.
Atlanta, GA
But as you say, the time is now since you are working on the cabinetry and floor. I would replace it now.
You want a reliable safe heater and if you go through all that work on the cabinets and floor and then later have to deal with the heater you'll be very upset with yourself.
I did the same thing on mine. I replaced all the plumbing and thought I could live with my water heater. Well, this year I had to replace the water heater and it was a bear. It could have been much easier if I did it when I replaced all the supply lines.
I have a 30+ year old heater in mine which I was so proud of myself because I rebuilt the motor and got it cleaned out and working.
I have yet to use it because of the fear of it being so old and my 18mo. old daugher sleeps in her play yard right in front of it.
You put a lot of thought into upgrading the floor and how to make this last well into your kid's lives, I wouldn't give them a 60 year old furnace to deal with. The new one will need holes through the side of the trailer for inlet and exhaust, when you replace the floor you can loose the original hole. If it needs heavier wiring now is the best time to run it. The replacement I got is only about 10" tall and will also go under the stove. With the cabinetry out it will be easy to see where ducts can run. When I started mine I figured it was time to replace all the original appliances because it would never be easier to reroute gas lines, water and electric to fit.
Originally posted by 74Argosy24MH You put a lot of thought into upgrading the floor and how to make this last well into your kid's lives, I wouldn't give them a 60 year old furnace to deal with. The new one will need holes through the side of the trailer for inlet and exhaust, when you replace the floor you can loose the original hole. If it needs heavier wiring now is the best time to run it. The replacement I got is only about 10" tall and will also go under the stove. With the cabinetry out it will be easy to see where ducts can run. When I started mine I figured it was time to replace all the original appliances because it would never be easier to reroute gas lines, water and electric to fit.
John
Do you have a link to the brand you have and some installed pictures?
My concern is having to modify the face of the cabinet. The side I don't mind if I can mount it sideways. All the current units I have run accros look like they need to be mounted perpendicular to the outside wall. I already have two holes in the side from the existing unit. The hope would be that I could reuse those vents with some creative duct work.
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1959 22' Caravanner
1988 R20 454 Suburban.
Atlanta, GA
Here is a picture where you can see the existing. Hard to tell in the picture but there is a second vent in line with the one you can see just a few inches above the floor.
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1959 22' Caravanner
1988 R20 454 Suburban.
Atlanta, GA
A new NT 20 or 30 would need 2 holes of approx 1 1/2 inches each located 12-16 inches off the floor. The existing holes would need to be patched. This would free up the riser space that the current inlet? tube uses. Also it would allow for easier on trip repair.
Now is the time to do it, not after you get the kitchen put back together. Just my $.02 worth.
I have some sources that I have been pleased with for this sort of thing if you need them.
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Brett G
WBCCI #5501 AIR # 49
"Stop worrying about the potholes in the road and celebrate the journey." -- Fitzhugh Mullan
Wise men talk because they have someting to say; fools, because they have to say something. -- Plato
In politics, absurdity is not a handicap— Napoleon
What I have is a SF 30. It is only 7 1/2" tall (actual measurement, not my 10" guesstimate). I don't have it installed yet, still working on my front end but drew it all up so I know it will work. There are 2 2 1/4" openings that will have to go through the exterior, you might get lucky and be able to use the existing lower one for one of these. If you want a copy of the manual let me know.
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Just my $.02 worth. 
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